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I’ve been battling an electrical issue with my ‘97 where my interior lights, fog lights, and DRL’s all flash. It happens when I have my parking lights or headlights are on. Relays 42, 37, 38, and 40 in the passenger footwell fuse box and relay 39 in the engine compartment click when the lights flash. I put a new battery in the car about a year and half ago and I’ve cleaned all the grounds except the interior ones which i will get to as soon as I can. All the original incandescents have been swapped with LED’s. I’m not really sure where to go from here. My volts on the DIC typically are between 13v and 13.5v. Any advice is appreciated. If any further information is wanted let me know.
I’ve been battling an electrical issue with my ‘97 where my interior lights, fog lights, and DRL’s all flash. It happens when I have my parking lights or headlights are on. Relays 42, 37, 38, and 40 in the passenger footwell fuse box and relay 39 in the engine compartment click when the lights flash. I put a new battery in the car about a year and half ago and I’ve cleaned all the grounds except the interior ones which i will get to as soon as I can. All the original incandescents have been swapped with LED’s. I’m not really sure where to go from here. My volts on the DIC typically are between 13v and 13.5v. Any advice is appreciated. If any further information is wanted let me know.
All the relays you listed have 12 volts at all times on one side of the relay coil. The common denominator is the BCM, which supplies a ground to the relay coils to energize them. So the BCM causing the issue, the question is.....why?
Any codes? Did this problem start after you swapped the incandescent bulbs for leds? Any water leaks recently in the passenger footwell, or moisture in that area?
All the relays you listed have 12 volts at all times on one side of the relay coil. The common denominator is the BCM, which supplies a ground to the relay coils to energize them. So the BCM causing the issue, the question is.....why?
Any codes? Did this problem start after you swapped the incandescent bulbs for leds? Any water leaks recently in the passenger footwell, or moisture in that area?
I’m not sure on codes, i’ll check them asap and write up another reply with them. The problem has been pretty consistent across the entire time i’ve owned it (about 2 years) and i’ve slowly been swapping to LED’s so i’m not 100% sure that it isn’t the LED’s but I also can’t say that it is. I did have to resolve some leaks a while back. The dealer I got it from had it sitting outside without the windows sealing well. I was also thinking it could be a BCM issue but I wanted to get a second opinion on the situation before I buy a new one.
I’m not sure on codes, i’ll check them asap and write up another reply with them. The problem has been pretty consistent across the entire time i’ve owned it (about 2 years) and i’ve slowly been swapping to LED’s so i’m not 100% sure that it isn’t the LED’s but I also can’t say that it is. I did have to resolve some leaks a while back. The dealer I got it from had it sitting outside without the windows sealing well. I was also thinking it could be a BCM issue but I wanted to get a second opinion on the situation before I buy a new one.
All the relays you listed have 12 volts at all times on one side of the relay coil. The common denominator is the BCM, which supplies a ground to the relay coils to energize them. So the BCM causing the issue, the question is.....why?
Any codes? Did this problem start after you swapped the incandescent bulbs for leds? Any water leaks recently in the passenger footwell, or moisture in that area?
BCM codes are B0432 H, B0502 H, B2721 H C, U1040 H.
I also frequently have the issue of my DIC showing “no comm.” for my TCS and other weird intermittent abs/tcs issues. Do you think they could be related via the BCM?
I also frequently have the issue of my DIC showing “no comm.” for my TCS and other weird intermittent abs/tcs issues. Do you think they could be related via the BCM?
The U1040 is telling you that the EBTCM lost communication on the serial data line. Whatever is causing that is why you are getting the ABS/TCS issues. The BCM does control relay 37 (ABS/TRNS) in the underhood electrical center, which supplies 12 volts to the EBTCM. You have also have codes for the rear defog circuit and right DRL circuit....controlled by the BCM. The B2721 is a pass-key failure, and being current will keep the engine from cranking.
You have been driving the car with all this going on?
The U1040 is telling you that the EBTCM lost communication on the serial data line. Whatever is causing that is why you are getting the ABS/TCS issues. The BCM does control relay 37 (ABS/TRNS) in the underhood electrical center, which supplies 12 volts to the EBTCM. You have also have codes for the rear defog circuit and right DRL circuit....controlled by the BCM. The B2721 is a pass-key failure, and being current will keep the engine from cranking.
You have been driving the car with all this going on?
I’ve had to jump my TDR relay to start the car the past couple of times i’ve taken it out. The fix for that is the VATS bypass right? I’ve been looking into it because jumping the relay is not optimal.
I’ve had to jump my TDR relay to start the car the past couple of times i’ve taken it out. The fix for that is the VATS bypass right? I’ve been looking into it because jumping the relay is not optimal.
Used to be called VATs in a C4, then GM called it PASS-key starting with the C5. The resistor bypass is used when the lock cylinder no longer reads the resistor pellet on the key. That will not help you if the BCM is at fault, and not reading the resistance.
There is a strong chance the BCM is the issue, but before replacing the BCM....due diligence is required with 12volt and ground checks to make sure the BCM has the necessary input to operate. If you have a DMM/test-light and schematics this is easily accomplished...if not, it may be best to take it to a trusted auto electric shop.
I will add that if 12v or ground to the BCM were intermittent, I would expect to see a U1064 codes as well.
Used to be called VATs in a C4, then GM called it PASS-key starting with the C5. The resistor bypass is used when the lock cylinder no longer reads the resistor pellet on the key. That will not help you if the BCM is at fault, and not reading the resistance.
There is a strong chance the BCM is the issue, but before replacing the BCM....due diligence is required with 12volt and ground checks to make sure the BCM has the necessary input to operate. If you have a DMM/test-light and schematics this is easily accomplished...if not, it may be best to take it to a trusted auto electric shop.
I will add that if 12v or ground to the BCM were intermittent, I would expect to see a U1064 codes as well.
Okay, I’ve done quite a bit of electrical troubleshooting with this car already so I’ll check power and ground for the BCM. It’s shaping up like i’ll just have to bite the bullet and buy a new BCM but you never know with these cars. They sure are picky electronically speaking