I started having this issue not long ago after I did a lighting upgrade, changed headlights and DRL's. I did have to disconnect the ground at the battery box to remove a wire from the old headlights. I removed the battery, and once I put everything together and installed the battery, the car would not start. I left it and tried the next day after trickle charging the battery, and it started, but took a few tries, and I gave it some gas which seemed to help. What I just listed may be a coincidence, but I never had this issue before. Now it will start several times in a row, then NOT start for a couple times. I will try a couple times, pull key, and try again. It has always started with a few tries, but I worry it will get worse and strand me.
This is not my car in the video, but same sound/symptom (and it looks like he is doing some electrical work/stereo)
I changed the starter years ago, and out a heat shield on it, and only has a few thousand miles since then, so I don't think it is the starter. Also, the starter issue was different, it would be intermittent, but it would make no sound, and not try to start at all. Gradually got worse, and would no longer start.
The ground wire also seems secured firmly.

What do you think?

 

So is a NO START or a CRANKING NO START…you must be very SPECIFIC.

 

It makes the sound in the video, to me it does not seem like it is cranking (turning over the engine), sometimes it will a little, but not run.
After a few attempts it will start. I can then turn it off, and it may or may not start on the first try.
Not sure if I answered your question, not sure if our terminology matches?

 

The sound in the video you posted is "cranking" a.ka. "turning over".

 

OK thanks, it doesn't feel or sound like it turns over, too smooth. Sometimes I can hear something that sound like it is spinning.
I thought ""cranking was the electrical system and starter trying to start the engine, and "turning over" was when the engine fired and the crank turned over.
I can usually hear/feel the difference in my 2 Vettes (both have cams), and my lawnmower, but not in my Audi which I can not tell if it is running except for the tach.

So, it is cranking like in the video, but no start, then after a few attempts it will start. I can't figure a pattern, seems to happen more after I drive it, and go to return home.
Yesterday, it took a few tries at home (and I keep a trickle charger on it), and a few tries when I left the gym to return home.
I then tried it at home, it took 2-3 tries to start again, then it started again 2x in a row.

 

Helpful if you post any codes

 

Do you hear the fuel pump??? Did you put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail?? If i missed it ignore me.

 

You are mistaken. Now you know the correct terminology.

 

It's supercharged w a gauge on the rail and inside.

 

CODES:
58-SDM U1096H
A0- LDCM U1096H
A1- RDCM B2265H and U1096H

 

Those codes are history codes and would have nothing to do with the problems your car is exhibiting. My advice is to find a reputable shop with a scanner. We will all be guessing as to what is going on with your car.

 

Narrowed it down some. Started OK in garage, got in car after the gym, and noticed the fuel gauge was at 3#s, usually about 60.
Tried to start it, and same result like video. Tried several times, waited some, tried more, no go. I then started giving it a little gas, and it would sputter a little.
I thought I would be calling a tow, but figured i would check fuel pump fuse under hood. It looked good, but I swapped one of the spares in.
Gauge was still at 3, I tried it with a little gas, sputtered, then a little more the next time, it jumped up to 20, then I tried again it jumped to 60 and started.
Drove home no issues, stayed at 60 +/- 1. parked it, stayed at 60, went back about 15 minutes later, still at 60.

Ideas? I don't think the fuse had anything to do with it.
FYI- I installed a new high volume pump years ago, and a boost a pump, but only a few thousand miles on those. (maybe 10k tops)

 

Fuel pump relay could be bad.

 

Are you talking about a fuel pressure gauge when you say “gauge at 3” ??…your mean 30 something psi ??…it’s either a bad pump or high resistance in the fuel pump circuit…is your car a 1995 ??

 

I tested the relay off of the battery and it clicked, then I swapped it with the horn relay, and the horn worked. So I don't think it is the relay. Although since intermittent, I could have an intermittent horn now.

 

No, that's my other car, this is an 02Z. Yes, FPG inside car, 3# (# pounds aka PSI), normal is about 60#s.
What would cause high resistance sporadically?

 

Best to state the model year you are referring to when asking for help…key on engine off fuel pressure should be 55-62 psi…when metal expands and even with a connector the connection may have high resistance when hot but normal when cold…so you are seeing 3 psi and then 60 ??..if you are not familiar with electrical circuit testing find an auto electric shop on your area.

 

Yes, but that's the thing, it does it sometimes when cold, and only sometimes when hot. I drove it a few days ago, and it did not do it at home, or on return trip.

 

If this issue is intermittent the only way to see it when it happens is using a lab scope so you can drive the car while monitoring the voltage drop on the positive and ground side of the pump circuit...if voltage drop is good the pump may be bad...I would also monitor the pump current with the scope also....and as I stated an auto electric shop can determine all this.

 

OK,Like C5 diag said,Possible bad fuel pump,You have to narrow it down,You say it's supercharged,Was the fuel system upgraded?I would go over the the fuel pump wiring/Fuel pump,You should hear it come on for a few seconds when you just turn key on.