Valve Train Tick Diagnosis
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 33
Likes: 2
Valve Train Tick Diagnosis
2000 base model. Auto transmission. Bone stock.
Recent maintenance:
- Spark plugs
- Spark plug wires
- AIR system vacuum repair
- Valve cover gaskets
- Intake gaskets
- Oil pressure sender
- PCV hose leak repair
- Vacuum leak test passed (Propane torch method)
- Oil Mobil 1 5W-30, AC delco OEM filter
A week ago I noticed a light ticking noise coming from my engine. Driven approx ~100 miles since start of ticking.
Characteristics of the tick:
- Does not go away when engine warms up
- Sound frequency seemingly synchronizes with exhaust sound (pretty on point)
- Seemingly coming from passenger side up top end
- Tick speeds up with engine speed
- Tick noise increases sound when rev drops from a 2krpm throttle blip
Other current symptoms:
- Idle is somewhat “jittery” will be constantly floating from ~625rpm to ~575rpm
- No check engine light
When I take off the valve covers, how should I go about inspecting for any failed parts? Ofcourse i’m going to look for the obvious, but any less obvious tell tales of a valve train failure somewhere?
Recent maintenance:
- Spark plugs
- Spark plug wires
- AIR system vacuum repair
- Valve cover gaskets
- Intake gaskets
- Oil pressure sender
- PCV hose leak repair
- Vacuum leak test passed (Propane torch method)
- Oil Mobil 1 5W-30, AC delco OEM filter
A week ago I noticed a light ticking noise coming from my engine. Driven approx ~100 miles since start of ticking.
Characteristics of the tick:
- Does not go away when engine warms up
- Sound frequency seemingly synchronizes with exhaust sound (pretty on point)
- Seemingly coming from passenger side up top end
- Tick speeds up with engine speed
- Tick noise increases sound when rev drops from a 2krpm throttle blip
Other current symptoms:
- Idle is somewhat “jittery” will be constantly floating from ~625rpm to ~575rpm
- No check engine light
When I take off the valve covers, how should I go about inspecting for any failed parts? Ofcourse i’m going to look for the obvious, but any less obvious tell tales of a valve train failure somewhere?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 33
Likes: 2
Okay so if it’s just a “normal” LS lifter tick noise, how come it’s now much louder than before I did an oil change? I’ll triple check for an exhaust manifold leak, but I highly doubt it
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,350
Likes: 1,124
From: Dyer, IN
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,350
Likes: 1,124
From: Dyer, IN
If in any doubt, take it to a trusted shop....you will not always get the best answers on a forum.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,301
Likes: 1,583
From: Western NY
Just curious.....what oil did you have in the engine before the "lifter tick", and what oil is in it now?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 33
Likes: 2
I just got this car so the previous owner had the engine oil changed at a valvoline the day before he sold it to me. Carfax reflects that maintenance as well. And after about 1800 miles, not a noticeable tick, and now there’s a loud tick after I put AC Delco OEM filter and Mobil 1 5W-30 as stated in my original post.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,818
Likes: 156
From: White Oak PA
Post a video
Very hard to diagnose noises when in writing. Take and post here a short video using your phone with hood open on a cold start and then afterward warming up. My 2 C5's are noisy on cold start that is normal LS1 piston slap. Quiets down after a few miles or when reaching normal operating temperature. Many first time owners panic while there is no real option to eliminate based on my extensive research. Tread carefully if looking for correction when dealing with mechanics unfamiliar with C5 Corvettes. Good luck resolving this concern.
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Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,301
Likes: 1,583
From: Western NY
I just got this car so the previous owner had the engine oil changed at a valvoline the day before he sold it to me. Carfax reflects that maintenance as well. And after about 1800 miles, not a noticeable tick, and now there’s a loud tick after I put AC Delco OEM filter and Mobil 1 5W-30 as stated in my original post.
The clicking didn't stop, so I backed the car back up on my ramps, changed the oil back to Mobil1, and the clicking immediately disappeared. It will be interesting, this year, as I have a small supply of 5W-30 Pennzoil Platinum, left over from a car we no longer own, that I want to use up, rather than let it sit, collecting dust. I hope that I don't go through the same scenario as I did with the Castrol.....
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 33
Likes: 2
Very hard to diagnose noises when in writing. Take and post here a short video using your phone with hood open on a cold start and then afterward warming up. My 2 C5's are noisy on cold start that is normal LS1 piston slap. Quiets down after a few miles or when reaching normal operating temperature. Many first time owners panic while there is no real option to eliminate based on my extensive research. Tread carefully if looking for correction when dealing with mechanics unfamiliar with C5 Corvettes. Good luck resolving this concern.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,350
Likes: 1,124
From: Dyer, IN
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,350
Likes: 1,124
From: Dyer, IN
Running Guns & Moonshine
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 12,476
Likes: 7,170
From: CT
Having just listened to another thread with the same question where the noise is very low from very up close, hearing this one from 8 feet does sound at least in the audio clip to be metallic in nature. Only sounds like one. But one "something" is saying it needs a little attention.
Definitely do follow through on using a mechanics stethoscope as it will allow you to localize the noise. Is it inside a valve cover? Which side? Which end? It will be apparent if it is. The suggestion to remove the accessory belt is an easy and quick one also just to be certain. Just remember you cannot idle the car forever on your battery alone, LOL.
Why were the valve cover gaskets and intake gasket replaced? That one perked my attention.
Definitely do follow through on using a mechanics stethoscope as it will allow you to localize the noise. Is it inside a valve cover? Which side? Which end? It will be apparent if it is. The suggestion to remove the accessory belt is an easy and quick one also just to be certain. Just remember you cannot idle the car forever on your battery alone, LOL.
Why were the valve cover gaskets and intake gasket replaced? That one perked my attention.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 33
Likes: 2
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 33
Likes: 2
Having just listened to another thread with the same question where the noise is very low from very up close, hearing this one from 8 feet does sound at least in the audio clip to be metallic in nature. Only sounds like one. But one "something" is saying it needs a little attention.
Definitely do follow through on using a mechanics stethoscope as it will allow you to localize the noise. Is it inside a valve cover? Which side? Which end? It will be apparent if it is. The suggestion to remove the accessory belt is an easy and quick one also just to be certain. Just remember you cannot idle the car forever on your battery alone, LOL.
Why were the valve cover gaskets and intake gasket replaced? That one perked my attention.
Definitely do follow through on using a mechanics stethoscope as it will allow you to localize the noise. Is it inside a valve cover? Which side? Which end? It will be apparent if it is. The suggestion to remove the accessory belt is an easy and quick one also just to be certain. Just remember you cannot idle the car forever on your battery alone, LOL.
Why were the valve cover gaskets and intake gasket replaced? That one perked my attention.
Uneducated autodidact
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 5,410
Likes: 250
From: West of the Sabine, Texas
I would take off the driver's side valve cover and look for broken valve springs first. If none are found, an old mechanic's trick would be to have someone start it up with the valve cover off (I know, it will be messy even at idle so have a lot of shop towels laying below the head) and take a big screwdriver (or something) and push down on each rocker at the pushrod end, keeping pressure on it while listening for a change in the noise. I've done this myself, and was able to get a lifter to pump up in a truck engine that had sat for a long time. It saved me from pulling the heads and I put another 50k miles on it before I sold it. Just an idea, good luck.
Running Guns & Moonshine
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 12,476
Likes: 7,170
From: CT
I would take off the driver's side valve cover and look for broken valve springs first. If none are found, an old mechanic's trick would be to have someone start it up with the valve cover off (I know, it will be messy even at idle so have a lot of shop towels laying below the head) and take a big screwdriver (or something) and push down on each rocker at the pushrod end, keeping pressure on it while listening for a change in the noise. I've done this myself, and was able to get a lifter to pump up in a truck engine that had sat for a long time. It saved me from pulling the heads and I put another 50k miles on it before I sold it. Just an idea, good luck.