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Weird C5 cluster electrical issues when in accessory

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Old May 8, 2025 | 10:34 PM
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Joshua Galer's Avatar
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Default Weird C5 cluster electrical issues when in accessory

Good evening all,

Thought I'd pick your brains on something that's been going on with my C5. Well two things actually:

First, sometimes when I turn the key to run without starting the engine the cluster flickers and fails to illuminate. Once I got a "Low Voltage" message in my DIC. Battery is fully charged (12.6VDC). All other electronics (climate control, radio, power outlets etc) all work normally. After starting the engine the cluster returns to normal like nothing ever happened. So my question is, how is the cluster powered? Does it run off of a relay (like my 300ZX, which I had similar issues with) or does it get power from the ignition switch? And why would it return to normal every time after starting the car?

Secondly, and I'm pretty sure I have this one figured out, but just in case someone's had this issue. Every once in a while my car experiences the 2 MPH fuel cut. I already have the LMC module and performed the brown wire mod. I have no codes for the column lock. I do randomly have a code for the VATS (I believe B2723). Could the VATS allow the car to start and cause a 2 MPH stall? The car is normally fine after pulling the key and cleaning the chip. I was thinking of putting a resistor equal in value to the key chip directly behind the BCM so I don't have to pull the dash apart. Potentially also just tune out the 2 MPH fuel cut with HP Tuners but it's a little pricey lol.

Thanks for your help!
-Josh
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Old May 8, 2025 | 11:50 PM
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What year is your car ???
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Old May 9, 2025 | 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
What year is your car ???
Its a 2002.
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Old May 9, 2025 | 07:18 AM
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When asking for help always include your model year as a minimum as the C5’s electrical system does may vary year to year.


Last edited by C5 Diag; May 9, 2025 at 07:59 AM.
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Old May 9, 2025 | 11:48 AM
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Although I have not experienced your exact issues, I have had many start/no start/almost start issues all the result of a bad ignition switch. Just replaced the switch again. Second one in 6 months. My go to mechanic opened up the brand new one in GM boxing and found the connectors not making contact. He did his fix and hopefully it will work for longer then 6 months.
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