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Hello. I am having trouble putting these aftermarket headers back on. I got them loose, but in the end didn't need to take them off, so now I need them back on, but it's very difficult, and I can only barely get these bolts in at an angle. If I keep tightening, will it straighten itself out? I think I might be able to tighten it a bit then maybe whack it with a hammer to align itself. Any suggestions?
Unthread those bolts, hopefully the threads in the cylinder head are not cross threaded yet.
You need to find out what’s holding the header pipes back, then get them lined up before screwing in the bolts.
Sometimes in situations like this, it’s best to walk away and take a break, then come back later after resting your mind and body.
I'm worried I already damaged them, but if I did, it wasn't a lot. For this, I'm going to take it to a shop because I don't currently have the tools I think I need (some sort of puller/setter to keep it in place).
Post your location and ask for help. If someone local has more experience they might be able to assist in recovery efforts — tell us you have not turned a crooked fastener with a wrench?
I need to replace the fuel filter too, so my best option seems to be removing and realigning the entire exhaust system. That sucks because all the nuts and bolts are rusty and some, if not, all need replaced.
I'm assuming I'll need Blaster (or some sort of) penetrating oil, and/or gas torch with cold water to shock and loosen the nuts and bolts. I figure I might as well get new gaskets for the headers just so I don't have any exhaust leaks while I'm at it.
I was trying to get this thing on the road as soon as I can, but that's just not realistic safely.
Any other things I might add to the grocery list before I go shopping (Exhaust-wise, at least)?
After the exhaust is off you should be able to screw the bolts into the head straight, you might need to buy a tap to retap any holes the bolts don't go in straight like the one in the photo. When installing the headers try to keep them supported so the bolts go into the heads straight with no side stresses on them and after the headers are installed bolt up the rest of the exhaust to the headers.
Are any of the other bolts started making it crooked? Try putting the same size of body bolt in to get them straight. Designed to reduce cross threading chances.
Then get the hammer and throw it into a field at night so you're never tempted to use it.
After the exhaust is off you should be able to screw the bolts into the head straight, you might need to buy a tap to retap any holes the bolts don't go in straight like the one in the photo. When installing the headers try to keep them supported so the bolts go into the heads straight with no side stresses on them and after the headers are installed bolt up the rest of the exhaust to the headers.
Chasing the female threads with a tap, as you suggested, is the best route. OP-Before you go any further, know this; the female threads are either screwed up, or they're not screwed up. No such thing as "not screwed up much!" If you keep running that bolt in crooked, you'll make it a bigger repair job. Then you'll need to use a helicoil kit to repair it. Go to Grainger, Mid States bolt, etc, to get a tap. I don't remember if the threads are M10×1.5 or M8×1.25. I think they're M8. Hold the tap as square to the hole as you can and run it in by hand with a tap wrench using some oil, like motor oil or WD 40. IMPORTANT-Make sure the male bolt thread is OK. It is steel, so it should be. If there's any aluminum in the header bolt threads, try using a wire brush to remove it. Unless you have a tap and die set, which would be better. One last thing; you might want to try slightly enlarging the bolt hole in the header flange, or if you have a Dremel type tool you could elongate the flange hole. But it should work as is, since they were previously mounted. Good luck.......
ARP header studs 434-1301 seem theoretically like a good way to go. Any tips/tricks I should know before trying to install them? Any specific anti-seize I should look for, etc.?
Any tips on how to tap new holes/clean them (I don't have an air compressor**, but I could buy canned compressed** air maybe, unless it's a bad idea)?
Leave me any and all tips, advice, anything you can give me please.
I wanted to get this thing on the road as fast as I can, but I'm worried about ruining it more, so I'm taking it slowly and doing it right. I just want to make sure all that I need to do before I start on step 2, missing step 1, if you know what I mean.
Last edited by RiverBoy; Jun 20, 2025 at 08:54 AM.
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
1- They aren't screws they are bolts
The guy who made the video is moron
2- That may work but what's it going to do to the threads in in that hole? Remember this is only aluminum you are dealing with.
ARP header studs 434-1301 seem theoretically like a good way to go. Any tips/tricks I should know before trying to install them? Any specific anti-seize I should look for, etc.?
Studs, for an already tight clearance assembly? No. No...and no. Use the recommended bolt.
Originally Posted by RiverBoy
Any tips on how to tap new holes/clean them (I don't have an air condenser, but I could buy canned condensed air maybe, unless it's a bad idea)?
An air compressor is a minimum requirement for this type of work. Probably a good idea to know the difference between a compressor and condenser.
Condenser Compressor
Originally Posted by RiverBoy
Leave me any and all tips, advice, anything you can give me please.
Get a service manual for your car so you are not completely reliant on the internet to make decisions.
Studs, for an already tight clearance assembly? No. No...and no. Use the recommended bolt.
An air compressor is a minimum requirement for this type of work. Probably a good idea to know the difference between a compressor and condenser.
Condenser Compressor
Get a service manual for your car so you are not completely reliant on the internet to make decisions.
I agree. Studs in this area are totally uncalled for. I've reused my header bolts on 3 different sets of heads. Theyre good quality steel, and aluminum will never wear out the OEM bolts. OP-We're not talking bolting down a set of heads or torquing rods and mains........
Reinstall Aftermarket Headers
