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I have a 1997 Corvette C5 and I have ALL the classic signs of a failing blower motor resistor. There are no Youtube videos on that specific repair and I was wondering if replacing it on a 97 C5 can be accomplished by a reasonably mechanically inclined person (which I see myself as being) or does the entire dash have to come out, which I just won't do anymore?
I have a 1997 Corvette C5 and I have ALL the classic signs of a failing blower motor resistor. There are no Youtube videos on that specific repair and I was wondering if replacing it on a 97 C5 can be accomplished by a reasonably mechanically inclined person (which I see myself as being) or does the entire dash have to come out, which I just won't do anymore?
Yes, I tried putting the seat all the way back and then laying on my back to get under the dash to remove the blower motor resistor but those two screws near the inside of the firewall against the carpet can't be seen from that position. I only need to loosen those two screws and then totally remove the one I can see and the resistor will tilt out but at 75, my body just can't withstand being torqued in that position for long enough to do all the plug disconnects and screw removals. I'm taking it in tomorrow to have the fuel pump ground looked at and I will ask the mechanic if he can replace the resistor for me. I have the part. I just can't contort my body long enough to replace it myself. Old age is not for sissies. Not that I'm a sissy. I just know my limitations. The fuel pump is supposed to pull about 4.5 amps. The trick is to get it to a mechanic while it is making the noise and the next trick is to get it to a mechanic who can take it right in and work on it while the noise is present. Tomorrow, I will drive my C5 until it makes the noise and then bring it in. The dealer shop foreman didn't even know what a purge vacuum switch was. He just saw it as a part that was not connected properly and had no idea what it was for. He just wanted to put another fuel pump in the car (I'm already on my fourth pump). The mechanic I'm taking it to tomorrow teaches auto mechanics at our local college so I suspect he knows what he is doing. At this point in his class, he is on auto electrical so perhaps he will see my issue as a challenge. That is of course assuming that grounding is the issue. I'm beginning to get the feeling one of the fuel lines is clogged but I am not losing power and there are no misfires so who knows? If I turn the car off for two minutes and then restart it, the noise disappears for about 10 seconds and then it builds and builds until it is very loud. If it was a ground, wouldn't it make noise as soon as I turned the engine back on? What a mystery.
Yes, I tried putting the seat all the way back and then laying on my back to get under the dash to remove the blower motor resistor but those two screws near the inside of the firewall against the carpet can't be seen from that position. I only need to loosen those two screws and then totally remove the one I can see and the resistor will tilt out but at 75, my body just can't withstand being torqued in that position for long enough to do all the plug disconnects and screw removals. I'm taking it in tomorrow to have the fuel pump ground looked at and I will ask the mechanic if he can replace the resistor for me. I have the part. I just can't contort my body long enough to replace it myself. Old age is not for sissies. Not that I'm a sissy. I just know my limitations. The fuel pump is supposed to pull about 4.5 amps. The trick is to get it to a mechanic while it is making the noise and the next trick is to get it to a mechanic who can take it right in and work on it while the noise is present. Tomorrow, I will drive my C5 until it makes the noise and then bring it in. The dealer shop foreman didn't even know what a purge vacuum switch was. He just saw it as a part that was not connected properly and had no idea what it was for. He just wanted to put another fuel pump in the car (I'm already on my fourth pump). The mechanic I'm taking it to tomorrow teaches auto mechanics at our local college so I suspect he knows what he is doing. At this point in his class, he is on auto electrical so perhaps he will see my issue as a challenge. That is of course assuming that grounding is the issue. I'm beginning to get the feeling one of the fuel lines is clogged but I am not losing power and there are no misfires so who knows? If I turn the car off for two minutes and then restart it, the noise disappears for about 10 seconds and then it builds and builds until it is very loud. If it was a ground, wouldn't it make noise as soon as I turned the engine back on? What a mystery.
Well, you never disclosed what type of HVAC you have, so hopefully you have the correct part to change...and you get lucky with the parts cannon.
You never mentioned what the symptom was, but the blower motor removal is not that bad to do IF you are physically able to get in there.
A few fasteners will need to be removed by feel (not in sight)