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Good morning, I have a 02 base C5 and since the cam sensor has been replaced, the car has been doing a innterminting crank no start. When the car runs ,it runs good. Has anyone ever had a issue w the sensor being the wrong lenght from it not being close enough to the cam to read it, but it still works ? This is been a PIA to figure out. I just saw a thread were someone mentioned the hold down plate is in the wrong position , and keeping the sensor just far enough from the cam .
Good morning, I have a 02 base C5 and since the cam sensor has been replaced, the car has been doing a innterminting crank no start. When the car runs ,it runs good. Has anyone ever had a issue w the sensor being the wrong lenght from it not being close enough to the cam to read it, but it still works ? This is been a PIA to figure out. I just saw a thread were someone mentioned the hold down plate is in the wrong position , and keeping the sensor just far enough from the cam .
Thanks
Have you pulled codes from the DIC? If you have a funky camshaft sensor, you should have a code. Where did you get the sensor from? Not sure how the hold down plate could be in the wrong position unless you have the wrong part.
So you get intermittent no crank AND no start........or just no crank? The bad camshaft sensor will not prevent the engine from cranking.
Morning Lucky, She will crank , but won't start on the first try. You shut the key off and restart it , wrooomm she takes off running. The only code is a P0300 misfire. No misfires on the coils (according to my Snap on scanner ) . She has new injectors , coils , plugs , Maf, MAp , CKP, plug wires .
I came across an article on here last night , where a guy had same issue, he found out the bracket for the cam sensor was mounted lower on the cam sensor, creating a bigger gap of distance between cam and sensor. How true it is IDK , but just trying to figure this puzzle out , so my bff can relax and drive her car without freaking out.
Morning Lucky, She will crank , but won't start on the first try. You shut the key off and restart it , wrooomm she takes off running. The only code is a P0300 misfire. No misfires on the coils (according to my Snap on scanner ) . She has new injectors , coils , plugs , Maf, MAp , CKP, plug wires .
I came across an article on here last night , where a guy had same issue, he found out the bracket for the cam sensor was mounted lower on the cam sensor, creating a bigger gap of distance between cam and sensor. How true it is IDK , but just trying to figure this puzzle out , so my bff can relax and drive her car without freaking out.
....and that "guy" had no cam sensor codes? Why did you change the cam sensor to begin with?
I would start by checking fuel pressure at the rail. Key to ON (not start). You should hear the fuel pump run for 2 sec. Pressure at the rail should hold at 58-62.
Check your fuel pressure key on and then turn the key off and see how quickly the fuel pressure drops…if it drops cycling the key on and off a few times will pressurize the fuel rail and then the car will start…why was the cam sensor replaced ??…you need the crank sensor for the car to start but with a faulty cam sensor you will have an extended crank.
YEP,,, After I tuned into the correct post, I agree 100%. You could very well have a fuel issue. There is a small inline check valve near the tank that prevents the fuel system from draining back to the tank. If that is bad (letting line pressure bleed off), you may not be building the proper fuel pressure on the first ignition ON cycle. The second cycle then allows the system to build and hold the proper fuel line pressure. Obtain a fuel pressure gage, install it on the Schreder Valve on the drivers side fuel rail and see if you get the correct fuel pressure on the very first cold start Key On.
Fuel pressure holds 58 - 60 while running. First turn key on slams to 60 . turn key over she hangs at 58 . She has a new fuel pump on the left tank. I D K why the other so called mechanic changed it out ( cam sensor) . When she is off she won't start to drop off till after a few hrs. but stay at around 40 . It is confusing .
Fuel pressure holds 58 - 60 while running. First turn key on slams to 60 . turn key over she hangs at 58 . She has a new fuel pump on the left tank. I D K why the other so called mechanic changed it out ( cam sensor) . When she is off she won't start to drop off till after a few hrs. but stay at around 40 . It is confusing .
Ok. That takes care of fuel delivery to the rail. Since you have a repeatable issue on "first start" attempt, try this:
-On you next start attempt if it does not fire off, keep the key to the start position and let it crank for a full 15 seconds...then let the key go to back to the ON position. Then check your codes in the DIC.
If you have a code reader or scan tool see if you have any RPM when it is only cranking but not starting...you can also see the tach move if you are getting a crank signal....engine normally cranks about 150 RPM...don't know why your "mechanic" changed out the cam sensor.
Update, I replaced the CMP sensor w one from GM , ( but made in China) and actually the issue went away. Took measurments of both and they were indentical , but my thought is , is it something internally that created a delay into the interminting crank no start( 2 relays were used before GM). . I will keep all posted on how it holds up. Next project . The dreaded EBCM module .