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I have a 2001 corvette Z06 and it’s having this odd problem where at random the gauge cluster will stop working. When the gauge cluster doesn’t work the windows don’t work the interior light doesn’t work the ac doesn’t work but the fans still blow but the car still runs and the headlights and everything else seem to work
Sounds like an ignition switch issue since all of those circuits are fed off the same (orange) feed wire...a switch issue can be confirmed by a voltage drop check from either battery positive or IGN2 fuse 50 to the HVAC fuse if you have a DMM.
I have a 2001 corvette Z06 and it’s having this odd problem where at random the gauge cluster will stop working. When the gauge cluster doesn’t work the windows don’t work the interior light doesn’t work the ac doesn’t work but the fans still blow but the car still runs and the headlights and everything else seem to work
Sounds like an ignition switch issue since all of those circuits are fed off the same (orange) feed wire...a switch issue can be confirmed by a voltage drop check from either battery positive or IGN2 fuse 50 to the HVAC fuse if you have a DMM.
I have a digital multimeter, would you be able to explain a little more in depth about how to test for the ignition switch issue. Just not exactly sure what to do.
I have a digital multimeter, would you be able to explain a little more in depth about how to test for the ignition switch issue. Just not exactly sure what to do.
Ok, with your DMM on the 20 volt DC scale start the car and place one lead of the DMM on fuse 50 (IGN2) at the IP fusebox and the other lead on HVAC fuse 18 at the same location…just tell me the number…if you see 7 volts that is the voltage dropping across the ignition switch…if you see a negative number you would just swap the 2 leads.
Ok, with your DMM on the 20 volt DC scale start the car and place one lead of the DMM on fuse 50 (IGN2) at the IP fusebox and the other lead on HVAC fuse 18 at the same location…just tell me the number…if you see 7 volts that is the voltage dropping across the ignition switch…if you see a negative number you would just swap the 2 leads.
I just tested it and the cluster wasn’t working so I put the leads on the fuses you said to (they were labeled under different names on the fuse box cover) it has around 6-5 when the cluster wasn’t working but when it was turning on and off it started to change from 15-17 and 6-5 and when the cluster stayed on it was constantly above 12
So you checked the maxi fuse on the right side and the HVAC fuse…what are yours labeled ??…how are you seeing 15-17 volts on a 12 volt system…if the ignition switch had a minimal drop you would see maybe 0.2 volts…you’ve used a DMM before ??
So you checked the maxi fuse on the right side and the HVAC fuse…what are yours labeled ??…how are you seeing 15-17 volts on a 12 volt system…if the ignition switch had a minimal drop you would see maybe 0.2 volts…you’ve used a DMM before ??
when I was testing it I had one lead on the #50 maxi fuse and the other on the #18 mini fuse as you had said to do. With the gauge cluster working it would read 12.59 when it stopped working it read 2.4 I’ll leave pics below for reference. Also I’m not sure what reading the 016.5 was from but I left it in there in case it was useful.
If you are seeing 2.4 volts that is a big drop…how about just reading the voltage at the HVAC fuse…red lead on the fuse and black lead on a good ground like the door hinge.
when I was testing it I had one lead on the #50 maxi fuse and the other on the #18 mini fuse as you had said to do. With the gauge cluster working it would read 12.59 when it stopped working it read 2.4 I’ll leave pics below for reference. Also I’m not sure what reading the 016.5 was from but I left it in there in case it was useful.
Notice that your meter is reading 2.4 and 16.5 mV.....not volts
No, you probably have it set on auto ranging…just leave it manually at 20 volts…auto ranging is good for the novice if they are not familiar with the voltages they should be seeing....so you nothing on the IP showing ??...both windows are inop but the door unlock and lock features work ??...when you press the AC button nothing ??....it's not a ground issue because all these components have different grounds...having a scan tool that can look at the inputs and outputs and any DTC's if present can narrow this down…when voltage drop testing I like using either the positive or negative side of the battery directly (source voltage)…I picked the ignition fuse because it is also in the IP fusebox also not knowing how long your DMM leads are....now I'm thinking this "may" be a serial data bus issue but normally on the IP you will see a bunch of DIC messages, fuel level goes to E and coolant temp maxes out...if you think you can use your DMM to check terminal 2 at the DLC (where your scan tool connects to) with the key ON you should see a fluctuating voltage of 0.2 to 0.7 volts or so...0 or 12 volts no good…your IP fusebox says fuse 50 is the AIR Pump ??????
As you can see everything associated with the windows are controlled by the Driver Door Module so nothing with the BCM…all the “monitored” BCM circuits are in the last picture on the left.
Are you using Maxifuse 50 at the IP FUSEBOX ??...the IP Fusebox is inside the car where the passengers feet would go ??...the fuse box label you posted is the under hood fuse box...are you using that one for testing and the 8th digit of your VIN is indeed the letter S ??...I was looking at it with my phone and it is very small looking at the label.
No, you probably have it set on auto ranging…just leave it manually at 20 volts…auto ranging is good for the novice if they are not familiar with the voltages they should be seeing....so you nothing on the IP showing ??...both windows are inop but the door unlock and lock features work ??...when you press the AC button nothing ??....it's not a ground issue because all these components have different grounds...having a scan tool that can look at the inputs and outputs and any DTC's if present can narrow this down…when voltage drop testing I like using either the positive or negative side of the battery directly (source voltage)…I picked the ignition fuse because it is also in the IP fusebox also not knowing how long your DMM leads are....now I'm thinking this "may" be a serial data bus issue but normally on the IP you will see a bunch of DIC messages, fuel level goes to E and coolant temp maxes out...if you think you can use your DMM to check terminal 2 at the DLC (where your scan tool connects to) with the key ON you should see a fluctuating voltage of 0.2 to 0.7 volts or so...0 or 12 volts no good…your IP fusebox says fuse 50 is the AIR Pump ??????
the reason I measured air pump is because it might be the A/C compressor fuse. And the maxi fuse should be an ignition fuse. Is this the part of the ignition switch I’m needing to get?
Electrical problems
