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Are you doing these measurements under hood ??....you should be testing inside the car on the passengers side...no wonder you said the labeling didn't match....read post 19 !!...the AIR pump is part of the emissions system...not related to air conditioning....you need to test correctly before ordering any parts...if this testing may be over your head seek out an auto electric specialist...they are out there.
Are you using Maxifuse 50 at the IP FUSEBOX ??...the IP Fusebox is inside the car where the passengers feet would go ??...the fuse box label you posted is the under hood fuse box...are you using that one for testing and the 8th digit of your VIN is indeed the letter S ??...I was looking at it with my phone and it is very small looking at the label.
I was not using the one inside the car, I didn’t know there was one in there. Is that the one I need to use for testing the voltage drop?
my bad. I just realized that was stupid to ask after I already realized that’s the one I needed to use. As for this switch. Is this the part of the ignition switch I need?
Oh, so you have a Solus ??…that helps !!…those B codes are low voltage to the door modules..,you can check those voltages with the Solus…see chart below…the 0650 is the check engine light…does it illuminate when you turn the ignition on ??…check the door voltage…as far as the 0650 you can turn the MIL on and off under output controls…may be the bulb or PCM driver…you may have an ignition2 voltage data PID…loss of comm to BCM…battery power to BCM is powered by the “orange” feed circuit also as well as the windows…if you want to voltage drop BCM fuses are 25 and 23 at the IP fusebox.
Oh, so you have a Solus ??…that helps !!…those B codes are low voltage to the door modules..,you can check those voltages with the Solus…see chart below…the 0650 is the check engine light…does it illuminate when you turn the ignition on ??…check the door voltage…as far as the 0650 you can turn the MIL on and off under output controls…may be the bulb or PCM driver…you may have an ignition2 voltage data PID…loss of comm to BCM…battery power to BCM is powered by the “orange” feed circuit also as well as the windows…if you want to voltage drop BCM fuses are 25 and 23 at the IP fusebox.
No or low power…just like the windows…you’ll need to redo that voltage drop test.
I found the fuse box and I was about to do the voltage test but when I pulled the cover off the gauges turned on, and as I started messing with it I realized I could turn the gauges on and off by kinda pulling up and pushing back down on the fuse box
I know C5 Diag has been helping you and I am just offering advice, so it seems you have a bad electrical connection at the fuse box. I would check the B+ cable, that is the battery supply cable, make sure it is secured tightly, also check the connectors that plug into the fuse box, and check for water intrusion of the fuse box.
I know C5 Diag has been helping you and I am just offering advice, so it seems you have a bad electrical connection at the fuse box. I would check the B+ cable, that is the battery supply cable, make sure it is secured tightly, also check the connectors that plug into the fuse box, and check for water intrusion of the fuse box.
how can I pull the fuse box up so I can look at everything
Disconnect the battery. I did both cables
Remove the cover, remove the nut on the positive cable at the top, and remove the bolt on the left holding it in place.
Now you can lift it out; the three harnesses will still be attached.
If you want to take it completely out, loosen the three bolts as far as it can go and remove each harness block. (I believe there are three different color blocks
for three sections of the fuse box.)
Disconnect the battery. I did both cables
Remove the cover, remove the nut on the positive cable at the top, and remove the bolt on the left holding it in place.
Now you can lift it out; the three harnesses will still be attached.
If you want to take it completely out, loosen the three bolts as far as it can go and remove each harness block. (I believe there are three different color blocks
for three sections of the fuse box.)
thank you I’ll see where I can get with it after work tomorrow
thank you I’ll see where I can get with it after work tomorrow
I would definitely not pull anything apart yet, considering you now have repeatable way to remove 12v from the IPC. I would use a meter to monitor the fuse of interest while carefully reproducing the same movement on the fuse box. Once you have the circuit isolate, you can do further physical inspection.
