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So I think I finally have my KS issue fixed, multiple ignition cycles with no codes, but now a new problem has surfaced. Now my AC is blowing warm, tried replacing relay 34 with a new on hoping for a simple fix. Then pulled codes and I'm getting a P0645 and a P1546 code which would explain why it's blowing warm. Where I'm a little perplexed is I dd not touch anything related to the AC sytem while I was re-replacing knock sensors and the AC was blowing perfectly cold last week. Also, there are no codes for the HVAC system in the DIC. Suggestions for troubleshooting, or just take it to the dealer for diagnosis?
Edit: I do have 12 volts coming into fuse 24 but no voltage at relay 34.
So I think I finally have my KS issue fixed, multiple ignition cycles with no codes, but now a new problem has surfaced. Now my AC is blowing warm, tried replacing relay 34 with a new on hoping for a simple fix. Then pulled codes and I'm getting a P0645 and a P1546 code which would explain why it's blowing warm. Where I'm a little perplexed is I dd not touch anything related to the AC sytem while I was re-replacing knock sensors and the AC was blowing perfectly cold last week. Also, there are no codes for the HVAC system in the DIC. Suggestions for troubleshooting, or just take it to the dealer for diagnosis?
Edit: I do have 12 volts coming into fuse 24 but no voltage at relay 34.
...with key in ON.... you have 12v to the line side of fuse 24.......and what about the load side (relay 34 removed)?
With the key to ON, you should have 12v at two of the 4 contacts of the relay 34 socket in the underhood fuse box (relay removed of course).
Hey Lucky, ever feel a bit like an idiot? Just went back out to the garage to check again and realized the tips of my probes were too thick for the relay pin slots! So after a bit of probe tip filing, I was able to determine that both pins 85 and 86 have battery voltage present. pin 87 was not indicating any though. Battery voltage was a little low, 11.78V, so I have my charger on the battery.
There is battery voltage showing on the line side of 24.
Hey Lucky, ever feel a bit like an idiot? Just went back out to the garage to check again and realized the tips of my probes were too thick for the relay pin slots! So after a bit of probe tip filing, I was able to determine that both pins 85 and 86 have battery voltage present. pin 87 was not indicating any though. Battery voltage was a little low, 11.78V, so I have my charger on the battery.
There is battery voltage showing on the line side of 24.
85 and 86 are diagonal from each other. Using the picture below, you are saying you have battery voltage on 85 and 86 ...socket side, with key ON ?
So I think I finally have my KS issue fixed, multiple ignition cycles with no codes, but now a new problem has surfaced. Now my AC is blowing warm, tried replacing relay 34 with a new on hoping for a simple fix. Then pulled codes and I'm getting a P0645 and a P1546 code which would explain why it's blowing warm. Where I'm a little perplexed is I dd not touch anything related to the AC sytem while I was re-replacing knock sensors and the AC was blowing perfectly cold last week. Also, there are no codes for the HVAC system in the DIC. Suggestions for troubleshooting, or just take it to the dealer for diagnosis?
Edit: I do have 12 volts coming into fuse 24 but no voltage at relay 34.
First thing if you think a dealership is going to diagnose this think again…they are parts changers like 99.99% of mechanics at repair shops…I’m assuming you have a scan tool since you do have 2 DTC’s but you didn’t have any in the DIC…are you using a scan tool or just a “code reader” which are basically useless when diagnosing cars ??…also do you have a 12 volt incandescent test light ??…as far as your thick test leads buy some 4 mm banana jack leads where you can use back and piercing probes…checking relays with a DMM can get you in trouble...you can get these on Amazon…let me know…best to clear out these 2 DTC’s before testing...is your AC manual or auto ??
First thing if you think a dealership is going to diagnose this think again…they are parts changers like 99.99% of mechanics at repair shops…I’m assuming you have a scan tool since you do have 2 DTC’s but you didn’t have any in the DIC…are you using a scan tool or just a “code reader” which are basically useless when diagnosing cars ??…also do you have a 12 volt incandescent test light ??…as far as your thick test leads buy some 4 mm banana jack leads where you can use back and piercing probes…checking relays with a DMM can get you in trouble...you can get these on Amazon…let me know…best to clear out these 2 DTC’s before testing...is your AC manual or auto ??
The P0645 and P1546 codes were in my cars DIC under the PCM module, no codes were showing under the HVAC section. I did not use a separate scan tool to find these. My car has the Auto AC. I ordered the tester you suggested and it will be here Wednesday.
Yes, they were under the PCM module and I have cleared them. The plot just got a bit thicker. Just came in from the garage, took a look down at the AC compressor itself and found the belt snapped and an old bolt laying next to the compressor pulley! I would definitely say this probably locked up the compressor pulley causing the belt to snap. Fished out the bolt and the compressor pulley rotates freely. Have NO idea where this bolt came from, every bolt I just removed to replace my knock sensors was accounted for. Here is a pic of the bolt, it definitely has some age on it.
Fixed, got the new belt installed today and now seems all is well. Still have no idea where that bolt came from, can’t see anything missing it. That is not an easy belt to replace!!!
Air Conditioner issue
