Install bleeder or new clutch?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 204
Likes: 45
From: Central Iowa
Install bleeder or new clutch?
I have an 02' coupe, stock with about 60k on it. I can smell clutch burning with the clutch pedal pushed in and I have some trouble getting into 1st. I smell the burning almost immediately just pulling it in and out of the garage. I believe its the original clutch. I haven't been driving it because of this and trying to decide what to do.
Based on the symptoms would you advise trying to install a Katech bleeder and do a thorough fluid refresh or just do the whole clutch and hydraulic R and R. I don't know this system well enough to know whether based on the symptoms the clutch is just toast and new fluid will not do much good?
I'll be doing it myself, slowly and carefully and thanks to corvetteforum.com realize the difficulty in these jobs.
Any info is appreciated, thank you!
Based on the symptoms would you advise trying to install a Katech bleeder and do a thorough fluid refresh or just do the whole clutch and hydraulic R and R. I don't know this system well enough to know whether based on the symptoms the clutch is just toast and new fluid will not do much good?
I'll be doing it myself, slowly and carefully and thanks to corvetteforum.com realize the difficulty in these jobs.
Any info is appreciated, thank you!
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 3,749
Likes: 932
From: Orlando Florida
Any loss of clutch fluid? How does the clutch pedal feel? Any perceptible change to engagement point? If you’re stopped, in neutral, and cycle the pedal two or three times in succession then shift into first does it make the shift any better?
My slave cylinder died a couple years back, and the first sign was poor release, wherein upon I realized I was losing fluid. While your mileage is much lower, the rubber seal is about the same age, and it’s a tough environment.
My slave cylinder died a couple years back, and the first sign was poor release, wherein upon I realized I was losing fluid. While your mileage is much lower, the rubber seal is about the same age, and it’s a tough environment.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 204
Likes: 45
From: Central Iowa
Any loss of clutch fluid? How does the clutch pedal feel? Any perceptible change to engagement point? If you’re stopped, in neutral, and cycle the pedal two or three times in succession then shift into first does it make the shift any better?
My slave cylinder died a couple years back, and the first sign was poor release, wherein upon I realized I was losing fluid. While your mileage is much lower, the rubber seal is about the same age, and it’s a tough environment.
My slave cylinder died a couple years back, and the first sign was poor release, wherein upon I realized I was losing fluid. While your mileage is much lower, the rubber seal is about the same age, and it’s a tough environment.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 204
Likes: 45
From: Central Iowa
That's a good point. I guess with these symptoms, even if I did get a good flush on the fluid and things were better for a while, I probably am only going to get a few thousand miles on this original system before I need to replace it anyway.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,373
Likes: 423
I have a 98 with over 150K miles on the original clutch. Around 70K I needed to replace the slave and master clutch cylinders. Installed a remote bleeder at that time. Never been a problem since.
Don't give up on those original clutches. They are tough.
There are also a lot of considerations when replacing C5 clutches concerning the external balancing of the engine and the clutch/flywheel.
Don't give up on those original clutches. They are tough.
There are also a lot of considerations when replacing C5 clutches concerning the external balancing of the engine and the clutch/flywheel.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 204
Likes: 45
From: Central Iowa
I have a 98 with over 150K miles on the original clutch. Around 70K I needed to replace the slave and master clutch cylinders. Installed a remote bleeder at that time. Never been a problem since.
Don't give up on those original clutches. They are tough.
There are also a lot of considerations when replacing C5 clutches concerning the external balancing of the engine and the clutch/flywheel.
Don't give up on those original clutches. They are tough.
There are also a lot of considerations when replacing C5 clutches concerning the external balancing of the engine and the clutch/flywheel.
My thought is to indeed replace the slave and master cylinder and install a tick remote bleeder.
It seems like the majority here would say that if you're going to drop the drivetrain to do that job you should replace the clutch at the same time. Then it is all done.
I can see both sides of this.
Say the clutch hard components are ok and I leave them in. I am saving that effort and cost of replacement. And I keep the original balancing.
Obviously if I replace the clutch I have everything new and I can also replace the rear main seal as well.
Hard to know. Right now I am in the planning stages and won't start this until its get cold, December or so.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 3,749
Likes: 932
From: Orlando Florida
In the enlightened age, there were specifications for disc thickness, and it would be considered a normal process to measure the disc before deciding on whether or not to replace it. I have not looked, but would not be surprised if the maintenance manual lists a disc thickness today.
Hard to argue with the factory balance argument. You have an ‘02 with 60K. If the disc is 60% worn — certainly doesn’t sound like it’s been abused — then you might well get another 15 years out of it.
Hard to argue with the factory balance argument. You have an ‘02 with 60K. If the disc is 60% worn — certainly doesn’t sound like it’s been abused — then you might well get another 15 years out of it.
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