The vacuum booster is done on my car. I'm strongly considering going hydroboost on it, specifically a system from Hydratech. I've talked to Jim their sales guy and he recommended a different reservoir from PSC to help avoid back pressure and fluid cavitation. It seems pretty straight forward, but I'm interested in some hard lessons other people might have learned before I go out and learn them myself. I've got an LS3 running the stock pump I pulled off the LS6 before the swap, and a TurnOne steering rack.

1. How/where did you mount a remote reservoir? It looks like the PSC would be too tall to mount in the same spot as the factory reservoir
2. It looks like I will need to get lines made to run from the pump to the booster, then to the rack, with more lines made for the return side of the system. Any tips there for making that work?
3. I have LT headers that just LOVE to burn stuff. How can I avoid them burning my power steering/brake lines or overheating the fluid?

What else do I need to know that I'm too dumb to even be asking right now?

 

I can help and I can not help. I have the Hydratech C5 kit in my car and mostly set up but the car has not yet run so I don't have the full experience answers.

I've spoken with the older guy in tech support there once and he was highly helpful. The topic of a different reservoir never came up. Though it was very specifically discussed that the lines and fittings they sell or provide are THE choice to use and none other for risk of leaks or failure.

Cavitation as a topic is interesting. Are you on a factory steering pump? I have a Turn One which is slightly lower power than oem. I also have the Z06 PS cooling lines running across the front of the crossmember - though I believe I need to order fittings to connect off from the hydroboost lines.

Routing seemed simple. I had headers and a blower kit initially but will soon have turbos and a lot of heat despite swaintech coating and turbine blankets. I have the lines go laterally to the frame above the brake lines which run to the master and then straight back on top of the frame to the booster and back. I put them in DEI sleeves.

I am better now. But when I first assembled the lines a few years ago now.... I don't recall how well I did it or not so I will be paranoid of leaks with the turbo heat nearby. Still.... the blanket being metal in this case and not glas fabric and the pipes being thickly coated I have low concern for flame from a leak - but low is still concern enough.

My interest in the kit was twofold. First, it was on sale for a huge discount from a shop down south. And second, it was an unknown for me to explore. I don't know if these would be bad or good for a track car with heavy braking, but for a primarily street car with upgraded brakes which were first C6 Z06 spec but now AP front and rear, I thought it might be good to have more pressure available to the lines than the C5 vacuum booster. It turns out this is not at all a necessary upgrade but still one I will follow through on. It saves space on the firewall but adds weight. And I like the weird and custom mods. I'll be curious to compare the Z06 to my Coupe when they're both done.

I have info at several places in my build thread. Here is the main post I think: Hydratech

 

I started a thread detailing my install here: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ydroboost.html

1. I just used my stock reservoir and T'ed into the return hose. Works great, no issues with aeration or cavitation but the fluid volume of the reservoir is enough, but only just enough. I wouldn't use a smaller one.

2. The lines/pressure hoses come with the kit, just cut them to the length you need. All you need are a couple wrenches and it comes with a step by step picture guide. It comes with all the adapters you need to convert the pump and the rack to AN-6.

3. Run your hoses right below the washer reservoir and from there go down in front of your belt drive. Loop the hose going to the PS pump under the rack input shaft just like the stock hose was routed. There is plenty of room. If you still have your EBCM it'll be tighter. I got some more pics if you want to see how I did it.


Getting to the brake booster mounting bolts is a whole job on it's own and will leave you sore and sour, but you gotta do it anyways so might as well make it count

 

Take the seat out for the firewall bolts. I remember pretty much everything in there being 13mm. Get a ratcheting 13 wrench and enjoy. Perfect time to also install a Tick adj master since you'll prefer to yank the pedal assembly. May as well.

When the 4 nuts are off the booster, don't be afraid to give it a good yank to remove from the engine bay side. It has retainer clips which will make some noise as you go.

 

Thanks! That's great info. I was worried I'd have to run the lines too close to my headers. I've already caught the car on fire once when the headers burned through my oil cooler lines. Seeing how you ran them is confidence-inspriring. Hydratech recommended an aftermarket reservoir from PSC that has more fluid volume, a second return, and a filter. I'll probably grab that. An extra $275 sounds like it's worth it to avoid headaches.

Did you have to completely remove your steering rack? I replaced mine a couple years ago and it wasn't fun.

I just got done pulling the old booster out. I ended up removing the clutch pedal and housing. It made it a bit easier to get at the booster nuts. Still not a ton of fun, but much more manageable. I already have a Tick master that I'm quite happy with.

 

Thankfully, I didn't have to take it out. The pressure fitting is very easy to access from the top.