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Howdy folks, I have a 2004 6spd manual with 235K on it. I took it down to have the torque tube, transmission and rear end rebuilt several years ago. Been on jackstands since the 2001 scamdemic. Since taking the drive train out I've been mulling different options for the engine. It was starting to use oil, about 1 quart every 2000 miles. My guess is most of it was going out throught the valve seals but that's just a guess.
So I thought about maybe a new crate motor, Rebuild the original motor, Replace the heads with new, Rebuild the original heads or just replace the valve seals, slap it back together and be done with it.
Right now I just want the thing running and out of my shed so I can have another set of much needed wheels and free up the space.
Anyone have any suggestions for something like this? If I just rebuild or replace the heads, I'd like to keep that around $2200 or less.
2001 scamdemic?
With your suspicions and priorities why not run compression to get a baseline on ring performance. Old fuel can be a problem, and injectors may need cleaning — which can be done at home. Fresh battery, fresh fuel, and compression, worry other thoughts from a running platform.
Howdy folks, I have a 2004 6spd manual with 235K on it. I took it down to have the torque tube, transmission and rear end rebuilt several years ago. Been on jackstands since the 2001 scamdemic. Since taking the drive train out I've been mulling different options for the engine. It was starting to use oil, about 1 quart every 2000 miles. My guess is most of it was going out throught the valve seals but that's just a guess.
So I thought about maybe a new crate motor, Rebuild the original motor, Replace the heads with new, Rebuild the original heads or just replace the valve seals, slap it back together and be done with it.
Right now I just want the thing running and out of my shed so I can have another set of much needed wheels and free up the space.
Anyone have any suggestions for something like this? If I just rebuild or replace the heads, I'd like to keep that around $2200 or less.
thanks
Just to be clear, the drivetrain is out of the car, and you’re considering what to do with leaky valve seals?
With that many miles the first order of business is a leak down test to determine the state of the rings and valves. Second, send an oil sample to Blackstone for a wear analysis. These first two steps done, you will have the data to make informed decisions.
As for the heads, you could take the shortest route and install new valve seals for $50, or get a complete machine and valve job for $600, or the full Monty and send the heads to Texas Speed for new SS valves, valve job and porting for $1200.
Of course it wouldn’t be a bad idea to check the pcv too.
I would throw a L33 2005 121k miles 5.3L Aluminum engine into it
Cam/spring (TFS30602001+ PAC1218)
Do seals, leave everything else untouched. Dont fck with the heads not even the guides.
Drive for 2-3 years then supercharge it
wham 500rwhp 10+ years of lifespan on it car is restored and reliable
Engine cost less than a set of tires
Just need a good tuner. Or relay this info "93 octane E10 , 11 degrees of timing 16psi of boost 2-bar map, 11.0:1 air fuel ratio, NGK heat range 8 0.028-0.032" gap, dont touch cam or plugs with bare skin contact at any point, IAT needs to be < 120*F , oil temps < 222*F , crankcase pressure 2"Hg ". I know what i said
Is the OP saying his car has been inoperable for 24 YEARS??!!! As for budget headwork..... You get what you pay for. If you're thinking of having someone you know, who is into fixing cars, doing a great job on your heads for a couple cases of beer and $100, I'd think again. I guess I'd ask you to define "budget." Also depends on how much you enjoy yanking your heads off....again. Because if the budget head work is bad enough, the engine will take itself apart. You could become very adept at R&R'ing the heads, at best, and R&R'ing the complete engine, at worst.......
Last edited by grinder11; Oct 28, 2025 at 10:07 AM.
Going to guess he made a typo as I doubt his 04 has been inoperable since 01, but I question anyone who uses the word "scamdemic" - a million Americans died.
That being said I'm not sure why he's set on valve seals being this issue. Seems premature to work on the heads before confirming this.
235K and engine is out? Do a good quality rebuild. Cam according to usage. Others can chime in with head work. Set of headers. Good tune. Enjoy for another 200K+.
*Note* Just reread OP. I thought the engine was out but it seems just the drivetrain is removed. 3/4s of the way there. Pull and rebuild.
Last edited by ariZona06; Oct 28, 2025 at 06:21 PM.