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Hi all, I did a search already and read multiple threads on this, but didn't find exactly what I was looking for.
2004 Corvette base, auto trans. I replaced the radiator after the plastic one cracked. Cleaned everything, drove all Summer and stayed cool. Now that it's cooler, I noticed my car runs hotter. In the past, I would get up to 220 but it would then quickly cool, I assume fans kicked on. This morning driving to work on highway, It would go between 220 and 225, once around 225 I noticed fans must be engaging because it would go down to anywhere between 205-210...........but then creep up again. Then, closer to work, it got up to 235.........which I was alarmed by. Any help is appreciated.
Hi all, I did a search already and read multiple threads on this, but didn't find exactly what I was looking for.
2004 Corvette base, auto trans. I replaced the radiator after the plastic one cracked. Cleaned everything, drove all Summer and stayed cool. Now that it's cooler, I noticed my car runs hotter. In the past, I would get up to 220 but it would then quickly cool, I assume fans kicked on. This morning driving to work on highway, It would go between 220 and 225, once around 225 I noticed fans must be engaging because it would go down to anywhere between 205-210...........but then creep up again. Then, closer to work, it got up to 235.........which I was alarmed by. Any help is appreciated.
So have you check the non-specific to a C5 basics?
- Is the coolant reservoir filled to the cold line before cold start?
-any evidence of leaks?
-how does it behave at parked/idle compared to driving?
-at what temperature do your fans kick on?
Thanks for the reply:
Coolant reservoir is filled to cold line before start.
No evidence of leaks at all.
Parked/idle it does not heat up too much. I mean it might rise 1 degree every couple minutes when idling.
I do not know the exact temp fans kick on, I haven't had the hood open when it's gotten that hot, that's something I can check tonight. I am just guessing around 225 as that is when I see the temps dropping most of the time.
Failed thermostat? New debris blocking the radiator? Air dam fell off or wore away?
Weird that it worked all summer.
You would think it would heat up at idle too if the thermostat failed or radiator was blocked.
The fans turn off at 35 mph, if your seeing higher temperatures at highway speeds then most likely the thermostat may be the problem, or problem with the air dam, or radiator fins maybe clogged with road debris.
Running hot only at speed can be caused by a clogged radiator [likely not in your case], restricted air flow, and a thermostat that does not open fully.
How many miles showing?
Did you replace the thermostat with the radiator? If so, is the thermostat an OE part?
Parked/idle it does not heat up too much. I mean it might rise 1 degree every couple minutes when idling.
Too much? What temperature does the engine settle in at when idling in your driveway after the thermostat has open. You will have to check for circulation or use an IR thermometer.....your choice.
Originally Posted by WI04Vette
I do not know the exact temp fans kick on, I haven't had the hood open when it's gotten that hot, that's something I can check tonight. I am just guessing around 225 as that is when I see the temps dropping most of the time.
Guessing won't help here partner......and you will have to open the hood to make sure the fans are running when it does get hotter.
Below 35 mph.....Provided the indicated temperature is correct, you can force the low speed cooling fans to come at an indicated temperature above 185 F with the A/C on.
Definitely not a clogged radiator, I will check the air dam as I recently had it at a shop doing the torque tube and maybe it got jacked up on the lift? I'll look tonight.
I did not do the thermostat when I did the radiator, but I could do that. I was exploring a lower temp thermostat and also having the tuning change to turn fans on at lower temp.
Since it's fairly easy, I'll start with a new thermostat. FYI, 74K miles.
I'll get more info. at home with the hood open to check fans and use an IR thermometer to get more accurate data. Thank you all for the help, I'll let you know what I can find out.
I'll get more info. at home with the hood open to check fans and use an IR thermometer to get more accurate data. Thank you all for the help, I'll let you know what I can find out.
If you have or have access to an IR non-contact thermometer, I agree that is where to start.
When you are checking the undercar aero, look for anything obstructing air flow into the radiator/condenser area.
When you changed the radiator, did you refill with GM Dexcool OAT coolant or equivalent? Dexcool is a fine coolant but does not like to be mixed with other types.
Dexcool is a fine coolant but does not like to be mixed with other types.
Tell me more about this. What exactly happens when you mix? What other types? Does this affect the ability to flow through the system, the heat transfer properties, both, neither, something else?
Tell me more about this. What exactly happens when you mix? What other types? Does this affect the ability to flow through the system, the heat transfer properties, both, neither, something else?
There have been reports of this on professional-technician forums since shortly after Dexcool was introduced [mid-90s]. When mixed with some IAT [traditional green] or HOAT [the most common today, but formulations vary significantly] coolants, a brown "muck" can be formed that coats heat-transfer surfaces and can partially obstruct small passages. I have not personally observed this as I do not mix coolant types.
I don't know if the "universal" [HOAT] coolants of today will react negatively when mixed with Dexcool. You will find many who report mixing coolant types with no apparent negative effects. I never argue with others' reported success.
Initially, Dexcool/GM took a bad rap for this, but in my opinion it is the result of an uninformed shop or individual.