Backup Light Issue
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Drifting
Joined: Sep 2022
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Backup Light Issue
So, the backup lights on my car stopped working, did not work on approach with the unlock on the key fob, and not when in reverse.
My car is an automatic btw.
Research said it could be fuse 2 underhood box, fuse 21 interior fuse box, or possibly the reverse light relay, or the neutral safety/backup light switch on the side of the trans on the shift lever shaft.
So, checked easiest first, underhood fuse box, fuse 2 was blown, had a 10a in it, and I think it is supposed to be 15a.
The spare fuses were still in the fuse box, so took the 15a spare and put it in the #2 slot, and then the approach reverse lights started working, but still no backup lights. Next pulled the relay, looked okay, had no appearance of having been overheated, but since I was unsure how to test it, I ordered a new one, but it won't be here until tomorrow.
Then I checked fuse 21 on interior box and it was blown too, it showed to take a 10a fuse which was what was in it.
Now, I installed a new 2-DIN radio with a backup monitor and the associated camera, and the camera and radio trigger power up off of the backup light circuit.
So, my thought was that the added draw on these circuits associated with the backup lights may be too much for only a 10a fuse, and the only spare fuse left in the underhood box higher than a 10a was a 20a, so I put that in place of the blown fuse and that solved the issue of the backup lights not working along with restoring the backup camera too.
I am a little worried about going from a 10a all the way up to a 20a fuse, so I ordered a fuse assortment off of amazon and will probably swap that 20a for a 15a.
And, of course, now I will have a backup light relay for a spare since that wasn't the issue.
My car is an automatic btw.
Research said it could be fuse 2 underhood box, fuse 21 interior fuse box, or possibly the reverse light relay, or the neutral safety/backup light switch on the side of the trans on the shift lever shaft.
So, checked easiest first, underhood fuse box, fuse 2 was blown, had a 10a in it, and I think it is supposed to be 15a.
The spare fuses were still in the fuse box, so took the 15a spare and put it in the #2 slot, and then the approach reverse lights started working, but still no backup lights. Next pulled the relay, looked okay, had no appearance of having been overheated, but since I was unsure how to test it, I ordered a new one, but it won't be here until tomorrow.
Then I checked fuse 21 on interior box and it was blown too, it showed to take a 10a fuse which was what was in it.
Now, I installed a new 2-DIN radio with a backup monitor and the associated camera, and the camera and radio trigger power up off of the backup light circuit.
So, my thought was that the added draw on these circuits associated with the backup lights may be too much for only a 10a fuse, and the only spare fuse left in the underhood box higher than a 10a was a 20a, so I put that in place of the blown fuse and that solved the issue of the backup lights not working along with restoring the backup camera too.
I am a little worried about going from a 10a all the way up to a 20a fuse, so I ordered a fuse assortment off of amazon and will probably swap that 20a for a 15a.
And, of course, now I will have a backup light relay for a spare since that wasn't the issue.
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From: Dyer, IN
Melting Slicks
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If mostly you just know 'it works this way' then I suggest you put it back to stock and find a better way to wire your radio.
Fuse sizes are chosen for a reason. You do not want the wiring and/or connectors melting.
