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Hi all,
I purchased ARP rocker arm studs and want to mke sure I install them correctly. As I understand, you lube the base threads and screw them in hand tight until it stops, then use a Allen wrench and go an 1/8 or 1/4 turn past that. Lube the upper part and then proceed to installing the rockers. (Head bolt holes are already clean) Am I missing something?
TIA
I guess you're not missing anything. I was unaware ARP offered rocker studs. I thought they only had rocker bolts. Oh well, learn something new every day. I will say the stock bolts are 12.9 grade, and I've never heard of any of them failing.......
Hi all,
I purchased ARP rocker arm studs and want to mke sure I install them correctly. As I understand, you lube the base threads and screw them in hand tight until it stops, then use a Allen wrench and go an 1/8 or 1/4 turn past that. Lube the upper part and then proceed to installing the rockers. (Head bolt holes are already clean) Am I missing something?
TIA
Yeah, it sounds like you are missing the instructions. What ARP p/n are you installing?
Yeah, it sounds like you are missing the instructions. What ARP p/n are you installing?
This set. I wanted to ask because when I saw hand tight my eyebrows went up. I am sure someone here has installed them before. Maybe overkill or not needed, but this is what I have.
This set. I wanted to ask because when I saw hand tight my eyebrows went up. I am sure someone here has installed them before. Maybe overkill or not needed, but this is what I have.
Ok, so you DO have the specific instructions from ARP. I had to look them up, because I did not remember any statement regarding turning the studs an additional 1/8-1/4 past hand tight.......and obviously it does not state that. Just remember to use the ARP lube, and do not torque down on an open valve.
Ok, so you DO have the specific instructions from ARP. I had to look them up, because I did not remember any statement regarding turning the studs an additional 1/8-1/4 past hand tight.......and obviously it does not state that. Just remember to use the ARP lube, and do not torque down on an open valve.
Thank you, I did call ARP just to confirm the supplied directions tucked very neatly behind the studs.
They mentioned on some of the cylinder head studs they call for the extra 1/4 turn but not these. Just hand tight like it said and it's ok to throw a little ultra torque on the threads.
^^^^^^^^THIS!!^^^^^^^ To the OP-Every time I've torqued any ARP studs or bolts, I have used ARP Moly lube on the threads and one side of the washer, always on the nut side, NOT on the head side. ARP is adamant on using their assembly lube. If you don't use it, you're torque readings will be incorrect, period.
^^^^^^^^THIS!!^^^^^^^ To the OP-Every time I've torqued any ARP studs or bolts, I have used ARP Moly lube on the threads and one side of the washer, always on the nut side, NOT on the head side. ARP is adamant on using their assembly lube. If you don't use it, you're torque readings will be incorrect, period.
Thank you, I have been. I just didn't feel comfortable putting the bolt in dry. They confirmed it's fine if use the lube on it.
Personally, I NEVER use oil or any lube on my ARP head studs on the end that screws into the block. If you use oil or lube on those threads, and some gets between the end of the stud and the block, you can crack the block if you try tightening the studs with a little too much muscle. That can't happen if they're put in dry. There's simply no need to put any lube on the threads that go into the blind holes.......
Personally, I NEVER use oil or any lube on my ARP head studs on the end that screws into the block. If you use oil or lube on those threads, and some gets between the end of the stud and the block, you can crack the block if you try tightening the studs with a little too much muscle. That can't happen if they're put in dry. There's simply no need to put any lube on the threads that go into the blind holes.......
Yeah me to . Its not being torqued in anyway. They get screwed in until they stop. I hand tight. never had an issues.
P.S very very important that the threads are absolutely clean and easy turning when installed. If there is any resistance take out the stud and clean threads again. There should be smooth and consistent install.
Personally, I NEVER use oil or any lube on my ARP head studs on the end that screws into the block. If you use oil or lube on those threads, and some gets between the end of the stud and the block, you can crack the block if you try tightening the studs with a little too much muscle. That can't happen if they're put in dry. There's simply no need to put any lube on the threads that go into the blind holes.......
The OP is using ARP rocker arm studs, not cylinder heads studs. The procedure for installation is differrent for both fasteners.
Never in my non-professional or professional career have I seen an assembly crack(of any material) as a result of a blind hole accepting a properly lubricated/torqued fastener.....whether that lubrication was in the form of oil, anti-sieze, loctite, etc.
Yes, I know he's talking rocker arm studs. But the principle is the same. I think your statement is absolutely true, with emphasis on "properly lubed/installed." I have seen hydraulic cracks on LS engines before in online pics, though never personally. But I never use lube on any threaded fasteners that thread into blind holes when using studs. Eliminates the hydraulic angle. Certainly do use ARP lube on the ends that have a torqued fastener. Though I never use lube on the factory rocker bolts. Never had any issues. Nothing stripped, nothing comes loose. Works for me.