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What is a "corvette thing," can you please describe?
Driving a sports car, like a sports car. In the case of the OP, on a track- where a consumable wear item (engine) wore out
I mean, why did you buy a Corvette? To do 5 under and shift at 1800rpm? Or did you buy it because it's the pinnacle of American automotive engineering, offers an easily attainable entry to the world of speed, handles well, brakes well and is comparatively inexpensive to operate?
Driving a sports car, like a sports car. In the case of the OP, on a track- where a consumable wear item (engine) wore out
I mean, why did you buy a Corvette? To do 5 under and shift at 1800rpm? Or did you buy it because it's the pinnacle of American automotive engineering, offers an easily attainable entry to the world of speed, handles well, brakes well and is comparatively inexpensive to operate?
Shitty? No personal attack, name calling, etc. How would the comment be better or worse if I met the OP....even once? Just seemed like a sad tale surviving it's first 24 years with super low miles only to meet an untimely demise.
Sorry that triggered you.....Christ, this is getting to be a sensitive group.
Yes, this is a very sensitive group. Any chance your original block is salvageable/ repairable? Your original refurbished original LS1 might be as good as any 5.3. Get that block out and take it to a machine shop for inspection/repair, and new rotating assembly.
Most expensive ridiculous insane thing you can do is rebuild any engine when shooting < 1200rwhp
L33 will 950bhp for 300k miles for the cost of two rear tires and people are dropping 3k to 10k for less than half the power and 1/10 of the lifespan on rebuilt engines
Most expensive ridiculous insane thing you can do is rebuild any engine when shooting < 1200rwhp
L33 will 950bhp for 300k miles for the cost of two rear tires and people are dropping 3k to 10k for less than half the power and 1/10 of the lifespan on rebuilt engines
common knowledge < using your brain
As said, sensitive group. Sorry, I didn’t know you can get 900 horsepower for 800 dollars.
As said, sensitive group. Sorry, I didn’t know you can get 900 horsepower for 800 dollars.
Well I posted a picture of one. Its 740bhp in my picture and the engine was a free 2002 LM7 with 180,000 miles now it has 240,000 miles 600rwhp dynojet.
So the options are, free 600rwhp or 800 dollars 800rwhp 20 years 200k miles (from 120k starting point)
you ever take apart a 2002 or 2005 LM7/L33 with 120k or 220k miles? The bearing are nearly mint. The engine does not wear itself out if it is been maintained and keeps OEM PCV and OEM air filtering. Caveat eh? You mess with the filter or PCV system and now its trash because nobody understands the two are the same thing.
I am totally amazed that the factory PCV worked this well, especially on an older, 1999 model, which doesn't have the "improved" valley cover type PCV. The LS7 in my C5 has (had!) the improved PCV cover. It filled my intake with enough oil to probably qualify for that extra quart!! Im not exaggerating much, either. First time I pulled the intake, when I tipped it on my way to the bench, Ill bet at least 3-4oz spilled out on my garage floor!! DOHHHH!!!!!! I yanked the PCV when that happened at around 3,000 miles, and now vent to atmosphere. Won't get into a pissing match about pro's and cons of doing this, but I have nearly 60,000 miles on my motor now, and it might use a half quart of oil in 3,000 miles. That's it. It works just fine for me. I will say that if my factory PCV system worked as well as this one appears to have, I'd probably reinstall it.....
I run the '04-05 LS6 PVC system (valley plate and hose routing) along with an Elite Engineering catch can. Air supply comes from the factory C6 LS2 setup. Huge improvement on how much oil gets into the modified 90mm inlet LS6 intake manifold.
I am totally amazed that the factory PCV worked this well, especially on an older, 1999 model, which doesn't have the "improved" valley cover type PCV. The LS7 in my C5 has (had!) the improved PCV cover. It filled my intake with enough oil to probably qualify for that extra quart!! Im not exaggerating much, either. First time I pulled the intake, when I tipped it on my way to the bench, Ill bet at least 3-4oz spilled out on my garage floor!! DOHHHH!!!!!! I yanked the PCV when that happened at around 3,000 miles, and now vent to atmosphere. Won't get into a pissing match about pro's and cons of doing this, but I have nearly 60,000 miles on my motor now, and it might use a half quart of oil in 3,000 miles. That's it. It works just fine for me. I will say that if my factory PCV system worked as well as this one appears to have, I'd probably reinstall it.....
you prob had a high flow air filter on it
high flow air filter on OEM PCV = intake fills with oil
This causes people to blame the pcv system and install catch cans
which leads to oil ring accumulating oil and light hydrocarbons leaving which leads to hard diamond-like deposits in piston ring and cyl wall damage stuck rings which leads to engine smoking leaking oil dripping smelling eventual failure
have to measure the crankcase pressure to tell if the filter is right ornot
factory filters must create 0.85" to 1.5"Hg on the crankcase at wide open throttle
so no, no you dont/cannot fix the problem just by installing a catch can, all it does it mask the cry for help
you see an engine with a catch can on the air filter side, its a bad sign of possible forthcoming blown motor doomed to smoking and leaking ruined
ofc this takes several tens of thousands of miles so by the time you get to that point you have no idea it was the catch can and air filter choice that lead to that result
You readers want to avoid that fate? Measure the crankcase pressure and set it properly. My 5.3L Free LM7 240,000 miles no smoking/leaking 600rwhp 1.5"Hg at wide open throttle measured using 5-volt battery pack and 1-bar map sensor video is in my channel and build thread
Last edited by Kingtal0n; Dec 7, 2025 at 12:21 PM.
I am totally amazed that the factory PCV worked this well, especially on an older, 1999 model, which doesn't have the "improved" valley cover type PCV. The LS7 in my C5 has (had!) the improved PCV cover. It filled my intake with enough oil to probably qualify for that extra quart!! Im not exaggerating much, either. First time I pulled the intake, when I tipped it on my way to the bench, Ill bet at least 3-4oz spilled out on my garage floor!! DOHHHH!!!!!! I yanked the PCV when that happened at around 3,000 miles, and now vent to atmosphere. Won't get into a pissing match about pro's and cons of doing this, but I have nearly 60,000 miles on my motor now, and it might use a half quart of oil in 3,000 miles. That's it. It works just fine for me. I will say that if my factory PCV system worked as well as this one appears to have, I'd probably reinstall it.....
Im with you.Best way to do it. The only problem i had at first is the cabin was smelly real bad, but i came up with an idea that i get zero smell in the cabin now. My engine need to release crack PSI and no system out there could achieve that expect release to atmosphere. the seals wouldn't last a min doing 20 times a day wide open runs pushing 30psi of boost. well 28 now.
Before my rebuild had over 90k miles. Got who knows how many wot runs that engine made. Got to be in the thousands.
I saw this as I was looking for something else. Says $1500 for the long block, $800 for the short block. LS6 with 40k miles. Wood Dale, ILL https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...b-b3620b7cad2e
I see a red fender and other parts in the background, I'm guessing he totaled it somehow...
I saw this as I was looking for something else. Says $1500 for the long block, $800 for the short block. LS6 with 40k miles. Wood Dale, ILL
wow, that is a tempting core. I’ve thought about trying to get an LS6 takeout but they are usually over $6k for what I’ve found. My biggest concern is that I don’t know the condition of the bores. I’ve read even getting a 0.005” “over hone” is a bit of a roll of the dice and I’d hate to pay $1500 and not be able to reuse the block.
I'm questioning the "Spun a bearing" description. Looks like the pan is still there , filter sill in place, on it so how does this person know? Spun bearings put metal in the filter immediately. How was this determined. Sounds? Metal in the filter is captain obvious. Contact the guy and see what he says. My guess would be: "Hold my beer and watch this". Then wrapped it around a tree. If it were not the holidays and about to really, really cold here I'd offer to look at it.
Crankshaft repair, due to bearing failure, is in the wheel house of many good engine shops. LS block repair, not so much.
Just saw it on FB and thought of this post and your woes.
I hope you find a solution.
Edit:Looking at those pics again, looks like new TTY bolts on the heads. Hmmm...
