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Not sure anything will fit under the LS3 intake, similar to the issues with the LS6 intake manifold. Some ideas on an a 4-corner setup using different OEM cross over tubes;
If you can find the early 4 point setup, and IF it bolts to LS3 heads, it MAY work for you. The LS6 intake, and the old FAST 90 intake both worked with the OEM 4 point steam tube setup on my LS1. There was a slight interference with the bottom of the intakes, but I had no issues in over 50,000 miles of driving. I will say that there's no problems with the OEM 2 front port setup. The factory went that route 20 years ago and never looked back....
I have the stock valley with the knock sensors. I did something that probably shouldn't be done. I took a dermal and smoothed out the honeycomb and I was able to get it to work.
Time will tell. I can guarantee you that the design responsible engineer did not add complexity to the intake manifold mold tooling resulting in increased cost and resin consumption on a whim. There are hundreds-thousands of hours of data from FEA and CFD analysis that supports the need for that geometry. It's one thing to clearance material, quite another to gut the structure about its length and centerline.
Time will tell. I can guarantee you that the design responsible engineer did not add complexity to the intake manifold mold tooling resulting in increased cost and resin consumption on a whim. It's one thing to clearance material, quite another to gut the structure about its length and centerline.
Simplest issue I imagine is it allowing expansion/contraction which then could cause gasket leaks.A literal airflow difference.
Honestly, this really isn't a big deal and just worth a try to get the kit to work. If it doesn't, there are plenty of intakes available.
I agree. If airflow DOES know the difference, it wont amount to squat. However, I also agree with some of what Lucky said. Did you have to make such a wide "ditch" in the bottom? Again, I don't think the difference, if there is one, will be noticeable.....
