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As many others have said, 243 heads are likely going to be your best bang for the buck but, if I were spending money on heads, to me, I would only get the BTR Canted Valve heads that were just released with some port work from a trusted shop. Figure out your budget and the driving characteristics you're shooting for, along with the fuel you're gonna run and then go from there.
okay well I am pretty flexible with the cost, especially if it means that spending a grand more would get me quality brand new aftermarket heads. And yes I’d be doing this with me and my buddy who works on LS engines for a living. I’m blessed enough to have people who are as enthusiastic about the hobby as I am recently just did my rear main seal, oil pan, and differential with him so we had the entire rear end down essentially.
now how about this, is doing just the cam worth it? From my understanding you’d have to most likely replace pushrods and lifters and if that’s the case the heads are coming off anyway so that’s why people also do heads.
Sattar
Give me a call....used OEM heads start adding up quickly if you build them right with decent parts and they limit your power potential. I have been doing this professionally for over 3 decades and can point you in the right direction giving you various options regarding different heads, cost and how spending more and spending less will affect power and longevity.
I can attest to Tony’s comments. I got a set of 243’s and by the time I bought new valves, springs, and a valve job, I was in it for $650. And they are still stock. On the flip side they are much better than the 241s.
Well, you probably won't like this...
For lively driving and canyon runs, your car already has that covered.
Seems to me that if canyon carving is the main purpose, a smaller cam like Truck Norris and long tube headers would work well because of the improved torque under 4,500 rpm? I guess it depends on how often you operate over 5K rpm?