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Looking to build a 427 for my car,Will the factory accessories bolt to a dart block or does everything need to be fabricated?I know they will accept the factory covers but wasnt sure if this is anything that wouldn’t be easy swap.
I have an aluminum Dart block in my car. The only quirk is that I don't have the LS1/LS6 "resonant" knock sensors, but I have to admit that I didn't try an LS1/LS6 valley cover.
I think I'm very close to getting LS3-style "flat response" knock sensors working, and I should know more in 3-4 weeks. (I had some titanium intake valve lash caps part ways with the valves...)
I have an aluminum Dart block in my car. The only quirk is that I don't have the LS1/LS6 "resonant" knock sensors, but I have to admit that I didn't try an LS1/LS6 valley cover.
I think I'm very close to getting LS3-style "flat response" knock sensors working, and I should know more in 3-4 weeks. (I had some titanium intake valve lash caps part ways with the valves...)
Are you still running a 411 ECU or is this with a Haltech?
Are you still running a 411 ECU or is this with a Haltech?
I switched from the 411 / P01 / red-blue PCM that came with my 2002 C5, to a 243 / P59 / green-blue PCM like you'd find in a 2004 C5. That requires moving an alternator wire from 52/red to 75/green (same connector, requires new colored sleeves, or you can shave the ridges off of the red sleeves).
There flat-response sensors need to be wired to different pins than the resonant sensors, and some tables need to be updated in the tune. I started a thread about it at PcmHacking.net but it's paused while I wait for my heads to get rebuilt. Once I confirm that it really does works, I'll rewrite the first post to contain everything you'd need to know.