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Installed a new underwood LED light and was barely getting any output from it. Measured the voltage at the socket with my meter and only 0.5. Checked fuse #2 in the foot well and surprisingly found it was “partially blown” - evidently conducting some electricity, but not all. I installed a new fuse and now I’m getting more voltage but still only 7.5. Any thoughts why I am not getting 12 - or is 7.5 what’s supposed to be there?
Installed a new underwood LED light and was barely getting any output from it. Measured the voltage at the socket with my meter and only 0.5.
Lesson learned - better off to install the underhood light THEN install the fuse. It is very easy to blow that guy. I don’t know what size fuse is supposed to be in there - but went from a 10 to a 15 and things seem to be working OK now…..
Lesson learned - better off to install the underhood light THEN install the fuse. It is very easy to blow that guy. I don’t know what size fuse is supposed to be in there - but went from a 10 to a 15 and things seem to be working OK now…..
yeah, just throwing a bigger fuse in isn’t a good plan.
You want to see voltage that the same as the battery voltage.
If it’s not, you have a problem. First step: Take your multi meter, disconnect the positive off the battery, measure your hot wire terminal on the light to ground away from the light for continuity, to check for a shorted hot wire.
Last edited by Gorn Captain; May 29, 2026 at 08:49 AM.
Lesson learned - better off to install the underhood light THEN install the fuse. It is very easy to blow that guy. I don’t know what size fuse is supposed to be in there - but went from a 10 to a 15 and things seem to be working OK now…..
First off, the LED light draws a minimal amount of current, putting a larger fuse in can cause a fire. Fuses are there to protect the wire, not the device. Sounds like you have a frayed wire somewhere most likely the Pos. wire. Did you check the voltage between the Pos. at the socket and the Neg. at the battery or Neg. at the socket? A difference (say at least 2 Volts) in voltage between checking the socket (Neg) and Socket (Pos.) and checking the Batt. Neg. and socket (Pos) would indicate a bad ground. And the fuse size should be shown on the fuse panel directory or on the actual fuse block.
The OEM socket has a mercury switch to turn on/off and a (10 minute?) timer to shut the light off when the hood is up for an extended period. LEDs don't draw enough current to make the circuit work correctly.
Mercury switches will make no difference to any load they supply. It’s just Liquid Metal in a glass capsule that moves to one end where there’s two contacts, thereby closing the circuit.
Last edited by Gorn Captain; May 30, 2026 at 12:36 PM.
Mercury switches will make no difference to any load they supply. It’s just Liquid Metal in a glass capsule that moves to one end where there’s two contacts, thereby closing the circuit.
Well, maybe it's the timer part of the circuit. All I know is generic LEDs don't work right. Now the ones you are listing might have a built in resistor to solve the problem.
The OEM socket has a mercury switch to turn on/off and a (10 minute?) timer to shut the light off when the hood is up for an extended period. LEDs don't draw enough current to make the circuit work correctly.
10 minute timer, and in the lamp assembly? No and no.
The underhood light circuit is controlled/monitored by the BCM and will shut it off after 15 minutes.