I have noticed that I have an aperiodic belt squeak in my engine. I observed the belts as the engine was running and noticed that the outer pulley of my harmonic balance pulley is wobbling a great deal. Naturally, the noise wasn't being made while I was looking for it. :mad

After reading several other posts, I'm positive that it's the wobbling that causing the belt noise.

So, I've purchased a replacement harmonic balancer from GM ($125.00), and I'm planning on replacing it myself.

I can see that there are bits and pieces of replacement info strown throughout the discussion threads, but I want to know if anyone has created at downloadable (or html) procedure for this replacement?

Other than ensuring that you use a new harmonic balancer bolt during the replacement, and moving the steering rack, are there any other tricky points to the DIY replacment? What's the torque spec on the bolt? Do you need an alignment performed on the front end if you're careful to replace the steering shaft splines back in the same position on the steering rack splines during reinstall?

Any help would be greatly appreciated! If noone has a writeup, I'll put one together and put it out on my site: http://www.c5corvette-diy.com

Thanks!

 

This may be the long way around but go to Lingenfelters page download install instructions for the magnacharger. There is a full page on removing, keying and installing the damper. When I removed mine the main PITA was getting the bolt off. It took a very good torqe wrench and lots of presure to get the bolt loose. :cheers: :cheers:

 

Thanks, I'll check that site!

Hey, just curious...did you use your torque wrench to remove the bolt? I don't think you're supposed to use torque wrenches to remove bolts. They should only be used on install. At least that's what my torque wrench instrux says. You can use a breaker bar to remove it. ...Just don't want you to mess up your torque wrench! :) They're expensive!

Thanks for the info!

 

I installed an under-drive pulley myself. Are you doing this on jack stands or a lift? Loosening the bolt is by far the hardest part of the job. Make sure you have a good breaker bar and cheater tubes (pipe). I had the pleasure of doing this while on the floor.

Also going to need a puller that hooks on to the pulley (sure you knew this). As far as re-torquing, I didn't have a torque wrench that went up to 250 lbs. So, I cranked up the requlator as high as she'd go on my impact and slammed her home (not the prefered method, o well). No problems after 3000 miles. I found it easier to loosen the 4 nuts that hold the sub-frame to get the rack out. Would of saved a lot of time If I would of done that first.

Good luck, Keith

 

Thanks for the info Keith!

I checked Lingenfelter's site for their Magna Charger installation instructions and it mentions that you can torque the bolt to 50 ft-lbs, then turn it 140 more degrees using a torque angle meter to arrive at the correct final torque. :crazy: I guess I'll try that when I torque the bolt down.

Anyway, thanks for the tips! :cheers:

 

That's the way a buddy and I did it on both our cars. Worked like a charm. :cheers:

 

i can scan you complete instructions on the replacement. there are several steps that are required that are not listed here. :chevy

 

Yes! That would be awesome. I'm gonna take pictures all along the way and put together another replacement procedure for my site. This will definitely aid me and any others who have the same problem in the future. :yesnod:

Thank you very much! :thumbs:

 

The 250lbft of torque is what you apply on the *OLD* bolt which is what you use to seat the pulley onto the crankshaft. THEN, you put a new bolt on and do the torque angle method. Its in my heads/cam install writeup on my site, just ignore all the stuff about removing the water pump and heads and you'll have your pulley swapped in no time.

 

That totally makes sense. :cool:

Thanks for the clarification!

Thank you!

 

i scanned it off to you :chevy