I don't think it's the lowering (within stock limits) that causes the alignment problems. Rather, I think few, if any, people have had theirs aligned period since it was purchased new. Just MHO, but I think suspensions "break in" just like every other moving piece in the car. I bet if you put every Vette on the rack after, say 10K miles, they'd be out of alignment.

Have a good one,
Mike

 

Thanks again Richie, you are a wealth of information for me :cheers:

Gary

 

My front end just started to make a wierd noise when I turn the steering even when I am stopped. I had the bushings cut in half and lowered the bolts in the lowering process. I had it done at Livan Herenandez new executive shop in Miami. I need to get an alignment but I don't think that will stop the noise. Anyone else got any thoughts or experiences?

I lowered my bad boy to the ground. I cannot fit any fingers between the tires and wheel wells. It is the lowest vette I have seen. It is a bumpy ride with better handling. My girlfriend can't stand it. I think it makes it a funner ride. Though I do hit everything on the road.

:confused:

 

Palmetto,
I have never seen or heard of any C5 that was lowered to 1 3/8" or 1 5/8" on stock bolt adjustments. The average is 3/4" to 1". Some only get 5/8" drop in the front.
Anyone who lowers their car 1 5/8" and does not have the alignment checked is nuts. Notice I said "checked".
Also someone else said lowering 1" changes the alignment very little. That is just not true! I guess it depends what very little means but 1" or more drop is significant and does change the alignment a lot in my opinion. I have the amount of change mine made written down. I will post them is needed.
What gets me is that there is no answer to the original question. There is no way of knowing what the alignment settings were before the car was lowered unless it was checked recently. The changes in settings after lowering could be calculated but most of us do not know the formulas and we would need to know the before settings.
Someone could lower their car 1/4" and take it out of specs. While another person lowers their car 1 1/4" and it could still be within specs. Again, it depends what the settings were before the lowering.
Some of us are driving around with Corvettes that are out of alignment. My right rear toe was out of alignment from the factory!
In this area it costs about $30 to put a car on the alignment rack and check it. If it needs some adjusting then the cost is $60-$70. If not, $30.
Just have it checked!
There is so much missinformation on this subject. :confused:
Hope this helps. No flame intended.
Dave



[Modified by corvette dave, 10:58 PM 3/17/2003]


[Modified by corvette dave, 10:59 PM 3/17/2003]

 

Whoever said that the Z06 would be a piece of crap if it needed an alignment obviously doesn't know squat about suspensions to begin with. The suspension is designed to keep as much of the tire contact patch connected to the road as possible. This is how maximum lateral grip is achieved. Hence the tire goes through a negative camber curve as it travels upward (jounce). If the tire moves upward under static conditions (lowering), the tire is going to experience negative camber and create darting handling and inner tire wear. The tire is going to move 1" or more in a hard corner and hence stay in contact with the road, so you should expect the tire to have a negative camber after lowering it 1". If tire wear is even after lowering, it was misaligned to begin with.

 

After three relatively successful years in Autocross and a bunch of settings, I am convinced there is no "one" setting for alignment. Each of us has our own driving style and it really depends on how you use your car. For me through the winter, I go with pretty close to a zero/zero setting all around to max tire wear. Min toe and camber. For AutoX I open it up with toe out on the front and toe in on the rear with a degree of Negative camber (I run Hoosiers). For lowering I am lowered to the max for stock bolts, what about a inch and three quarters? (about) I did add the bump steer kit and it made a huge difference, but you got to spend the time and do it right. You are matching the arch of travel of the tie-rod to the change in travel due to lowering. Any way you do need to re-align when lowering and I strongly suggest teh bump steer kit!
Jer :D