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I plan on removing my wheels for spring cleaning. When I put the wheels back on, I want to use a torque wrench so I don't warp the wheels and/or the rotors. Do I need a special Torque Wrench? Are they rated? What do I set it at when tightening the lug nuts? Thanks!
Torque is 140 N·m (100 lb ft), and tighten in a criss-cross pattern. I would suggest tightening to 70 N.m on the first go round, then to the final 140 on the second and last sequence.
As for a torque wrench, they vary from a beam type with a pointer, to a click stop (the torque wrench clicks and the handle slightly gives to let you know you have reached the set torque, and a wrench that beeps when you reach set torque. Prices vary, but the beam is the least expensive and the beeper model is the most expensive.
If no Snap-on truck in your neighborhood, run up to Sears.
The clicker and beeping torque wrenches to require recalibration every few years, depending on how much you use it.
Also, if you have access to an impact wrench, it can be used but I would highly recommend a torque stick to prevent over torquing of the nuts.
Also, if you have access to an impact wrench, it can be used but I would highly recommend a torque stick to prevent over torquing of the nuts.
I have a Makita 24v Makstar cordless impact wrench on order and a set of torque sticks. I have been told that torque sticks are pretty accurate. Does everyone agree? I would finish the install off with a torque wrench afterwards, but I like the speed of the impact wrench.
I got a torque wrench from Sears. It cost about $100 bucks. It's one of the "clicking" types. It works great. No complaints at all. Have used it for several wheelswaps and Track days already. Would buy one again. Needed a short 2" extension to get to the lugs on the back rims. Tips that were given to me: always torque pulling smoothly UP on the handle and don't forget to store the wrench with the torque setting at zero (or off or stop depending on what it says on your handle.) I have been amazed that I have to retorque between hot lapping sessions. Now I retorque the lugs everytime I come off the track.
Reliable torque sticks are accurate, but they lose their accuracy over time. The twisting motion makes the metal weak. However, when they weaken the torque gets lower, so you won't have to worry about over-torquing when they weaken. Make sure to mark the wheel to the hub before removal, and clean the studs and nuts of any dirt or rust. Same with the mounting surfaces on the hubs and wheels. Also, do not apply grease or a lubricant to the stud threads or the lug nuts; doing so will affect the actual torque. You can clean them, but don't lubricate them. Direct quote from GM Service Manual under the wheels/tires section:
"Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. "
Nice tool, and it may be necessary if doing work on newer GM vehicles such as the C6. Torque angles are becoming standard with the increased use of Torque-to-Yield bolts. They are popping up all over the place, and the bolts cannot be reused, and using an impact to remove can snap the buggers. Technology; isn't it great.