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I know that these must have been posted before, but I'd appreciate it if someone would please direct me to instructions for lowering my '98 coupe. Would it be alright to lower the rear about 1/2" and leave the front alone? I don't want to rub going over every bump and curb.
Z51 doesn't matter, although it might not drop as much due to the stiffer Z51 suspension. If its not low enough, you will have to put longer bolts in the rear and cut a bushing or two in the front.
Would it be alright to lower the rear about 1/2" and leave the front alone.
I would also lower the front too...I've heard from some people that it is unsafe to travel at high speeds if the front is higher than the back due to aerodynamics issues...Just lower both ends...you'll get used to the air dam scraping over bumps. Also, you should plan on getting the AndA rocker rails and frame savers for xtra protection. :yesnod:
This PowerPoint presentation is nice and probably took a lot of time, BUT you DO NOT have to remove any "supporting hardware" in the front to adjust the lowering bolts. He says to disconnect the front swaybar and lower ball joint! All you need to do is raise the front and support it on the subframe crossbrace, then put a small bottle jack under the leaf spring and lift it ever so slightly to take tension off of the bolt. You can then turn it by hand until it stops. If its a little tight, put a socket on it and you're done in a few minutes on each side. I just think he went a little overboard, thats all.
You don't even need to remove anything to cut the front bushings either. There is plenty of room between the spring and lower control arm to slide a course hacksaw blade in there and cut the bushings in about 5 minutes per side.
You don't even need to remove anything to cut the front bushings either. There is plenty of room between the spring and lower control arm to slide a course hacksaw blade in there and cut the bushings in about 5 minutes per side.
I would also lower the front too...I've heard from some people that it is unsafe to travel at high speeds if the front is higher than the back due to aerodynamics issues...Just lower both ends...you'll get used to the air dam scraping over bumps. Also, you should plan on getting the AndA rocker rails and frame savers for xtra protection. :yesnod:
I did a full drop on the rear of my car and left the front alone. No problems at all. :yesnod:
From: Defending the US Constitution in Northern CA
Re: C5 Lowering Instructions (RUGBY)
Yep, Emptywallet is right. It was a beautiful presentation, but makes a 1/2 hour job into a 1/2 day job.
A little penetrating oil on the threads of the front adjusting bolt and some silicone lube shot between the rubber bushing of the adjusting bolt and lower control arm can make the job even easier. I've never experienced any additional problems lowering a Z51. Actually the F45 shocks get a bit in the way for reaching the adjusting bolts. If you haven't gotten a wheel alignment in the past 10k miles, I would recommend that you get one after you finish lowering your car. I also have rocker savers, spoiler skirt stiffeners and radiator support skid plates on my car as some speed bumps and driveways can really reach up and bite the underside of your car.
Now get out there and get after it. It isn't that hard and you will love the looks of the car when you are done.
You don't even need to remove anything to cut the front bushings either. There is plenty of room between the spring and lower control arm to slide a course hacksaw blade in there and cut the bushings in about 5 minutes per side.
I tried for about 3 hours to get the freaking A-Arm to drop and you are saying
that I do not need to!!!!!!!!!! :cuss :mad :cuss :mad
What size blade fits in there?
Matt, you can get to the bushings through the big cutout area in the lower A-arm. (see picture below) You need to get under the car to get in there, but works great! Just be sure to use a small jack to slightly raise the spring to take the pressure off of the bushing.
It would seem that the bushing would not be flat if you cut the bushing without removing the bolt. Flat as it was stock. I would prefer that the bushing rest as much rubber on the spring as possible.
I cut my front bushings and then filed/grinded them as smooth as I could get them. Hard to cut them straight even off the car.
I could be wrong here. Let me know.
Dave
Matt, you can get to the bushings through the big cutout area in the lower A-arm. (see picture below) You need to get under the car to get in there, but works great! Just be sure to use a small jack to slightly raise the spring to take the pressure off of the bushing.
Alrighty guys round two begins here in a few. I will let you all know!
Thanks! :cheers: