The dealers in my area don't even stock the bolts so I know that aren't changing them. I called 4 dealers and no one had them.

 

There are actually 8 bolts per axle plus washers. You are supposed to replace both the bolt and the washer. The new bolts come coated with the vibratite. They are expensive. I did this a couple of years ago and found that replacing all the bolts and washers was around $100.00 if I remember that correctly. Dealers never keep this in stock you will have to order them.

 

Same here. Called a bunch of dealers and nobody had them.

 

Brake Caliper Bracket Replacement - Front
Removal Procedure

Caution
Do not move the vehicle until a firm brake pedal is obtained. Failure to obtain a firm pedal before moving vehicle may result in personal injury.




Remove the brake caliper from the mounting bracket and support the brake caliper (2) with heavy mechanic's wire (1), or equivalent; do NOT disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement - Front .

Watch your brake reservoir level, when you compress the caliper pistons the fluid level will increase in the reservoir.
Install large C-clamp (2) over the body of the brake caliper (1) with the C-clamp ends against the rear of the caliper body and against the outboard brake pad.
Tighten the C-clamp (2) evenly until the caliper pistons are compressed into the caliper bores enough to allow the caliper to slide past the brake rotor.
Remove the C-clamp from the caliper.









Remove the brake pads (2) from the brake caliper bracket (3).

Remove the brake pad retainers (1) from the brake caliper bracket (3).

Caution
These fasteners MUST be replaced with new fasteners anytime they become loose or are removed. Failure to replace these fasteners after they become loose or are removed may cause loss of vehicle control and personal injury.




Remove the brake caliper mounting bracket bolts and washers.




Discard the brake caliper mounting bracket bolts. These bolts are 21mm and are very tight.

Remove the brake caliper mounting bracket from the knuckle.
Inspect the brake caliper bracket.
Replace the brake caliper bracket if cracked or damaged.
Clean all the bolt adhesive residue from the brake caliper mounting bracket and the knuckle mating surfaces.


Remove the rotor retainers with a 3/8" deep socket applied with lite hand pressure to get them started, Then with gloves on turn and pull the retainers off.



Remove the brake rotor.
Installation Procedure



Important
Whenever the rotor has been separated from the wheel bearing flange, clean any rust or contaminants from the wheel bearing flange and the brake rotor mating surfaces. Failure to do this may result in increased lateral runout of the brake rotor, and brake pulsation.


Use the J 42450-A in order to clean any rust or corrosion from the wheel hub surface. I just used a wire brush to clean the area.





Install the brake rotor over the wheel studs onto the wheel bearing flange.

Installation Procedure




Install the brake caliper mounting bracket to the knuckle. the part # for the new bolts are 14067559.

Caution
These fasteners MUST be replaced with new fasteners anytime they become loose or are removed. Failure to replace these fasteners after they become loose or are removed may cause loss of vehicle control and personal injury.

Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.


Install the two NEW brake caliper mounting bracket bolts and washers. The new brake caliper mounting bracket bolts will come with an adhesive already applied to the threads. Tighten
Tighten the front brake caliper mounting bracket bolts to 175 N·m (125 lb ft).

Lubricate the brake caliper pin bolts with high temperature silicone lubricant.



Install the brake pad retainers (1) to the brake caliper bracket (3).
Install the brake pads (2) to the brake caliper bracket (3).
Install the brake caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement - Front .

With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of its travel distance.
Slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 11-12 until a firm brake pedal apply is obtained; this will properly seat the brake caliper pistons and brake pads.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the proper level. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling in Hydraulic Brakes.

Burnishing Pads and Rotors

Road Test Safety Caution
Road test a vehicle under safe conditions and while obeying all traffic laws. Do not attempt any maneuvers that could jeopardize vehicle control. Failure to adhere to these precautions could lead to serious personal injury and vehicle damage.


Burnishing the brake pads and brake rotors is necessary in order to ensure that the braking surfaces are properly prepared after service has been performed on the disc brake system.

This procedure should be performed whenever the disc brake rotors have been refinished or replaced, and/or whenever the disc brake pads have been replaced.

Select a smooth road with little or no traffic.
Accelerate the vehicle to 48 km/h (30 mph).

Important
Use care to avoid overheating the brakes while performing this step.


Using moderate to firm pressure, apply the brakes to bring the vehicle to a stop. Do not allow the brakes to lock.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 until approximately 20 stops have been completed. Allow sufficient cooling periods between stops in order to properly burnish the brake pads and rotors.

 

I have had te bolts off and on 100 times with no exaggeration. I do have new ones too. Don't fret about it.

 

gmblack3 - Thanks for the detail instructions. They look great.
I didnt see an air powered impact gun. Didnt use one here?
Have'nt done anything like this in quite awhile. Got a good reminder to use coat hanger to hold up caliper instead of dangling from brake line. :thumbs:

 

Although it can be hard to loosen the 21mm bolts any "extended" 1/2 arm USUALLY will break them free. I have a 1/2" click type torque wrench, where you can lock it out in either direction, and that gave me enough leverage.



[Modified by Richin Chicago, 12:21 PM 5/17/2003]

 

I have an 14" 3/4" drive ratchet that I use to break them loose. Some times I still have to put a pipe over the end of it to get some more leverage. If you have a floorjack that has a 2 piece handle you can use the upper part of the handle to slide over the end of the ratchet.

 

Impact gun. They're off in a couple of seconds :D

 

Just yesterday I changed front and rear rotors (slotted) and hawk street pads. 2 1/2 hours total. I went the book route and changed all the bolts.
Thoughts on use of impact wrench is that when removing the old bolts the sudden torque might snap the head. You never know. JMO.
Also kudos to ROAD WARRIOR. Sold me his painted 2k wheels with sensors and tires mounted. That were everything he said and more.

 

:iagree:

I had to jack up the car a little more than usual to get extra leverage on bar