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Just curious if anybody has any tips for a DIY rotor job.
Got some x-drilled and slotted rotors I'm dying to get on my '98 Cpe.
I consider myself a "four-thumb mechanic" without air tools.
What should I expect removing the calipers? :yesnod:
Get a good torque wrench and a 18" "cheater bar" to crack those 125ft-lb caliper bracket mounting bolts....other than that, it's all staright forward work :cheers:
It's not bad at all, I just changed mine too. You can get it off with a regular ratchet. If it's stuck, hit it with a hammer and it will come right off. :smash:
They are on there good!
I could not get those bolts off with an Electric Impact gun
I used an 18" long 1/2" Ratchet with "Swivel Head" breaker bar. I got it from Home Depot..The swivel head helps you get into the perfect position..
Worked perfectly..
Removing the calipers takes about 3 or 4 minutes per corner. Then you have to remove the caliper brackets, takes another 4 or 5 minutes per corner. They are held on with 2 bolts that are torqued to 125 ft/lb from the factory. I doubt you will be able to break them loose with an impact. For the front bracket bolts, turn the wheels all of the way one direction to allow room for a long breaker bar on your ratchet handle, repeat for the other side. There is more room in the rear. After the calipers and brackets are off, the rotors just come right off. Now is the time to clean all of the rust and junk off of the hubs. I cleaned mine and put a rust killer on them.
Great news. I've got that exact tool (Masco I believe).
So, outside of the grunting we've got a fairly straight forward project here.
What about the new pads? Is it tough getting the new pads over the new rotors once their installed in the calipers?
Also, ( hate to drag this out) did anybody paint their calipers with the two part epoxy paint? And, how'd they look?
Great news. I've got that exact tool (Masco I believe).
So, outside of the grunting we've got a fairly straight forward project here.
What about the new pads? Is it tough getting the new pads over the new rotors once their installed in the calipers?
Also, ( hate to drag this out) did anybody paint their calipers with the two part epoxy paint? And, how'd they look?
Paint your calipers while you are in there...It will look sweet!! No better time..DOn't have to protect anything..The pad and rotors will be new..
Post PICS!!!
Oh..Almost forgot..If you are doing this on Jackstands...
The driver side rear is a BIITCH to loosen..You can fit the breaker bar on..But to loosen you must push "UP" on the bar..The space you have to work is from the floor to the bottom of the car...
I put my floor jack under the bar and pumped until the bolt broke loose then it was easy from there..
Thanks chuckster! I'm also gonna pre-emptively strike with WD40 on the bolts the night before. Hopefully, this will help loosen the tension.
Good to hear about the paint also.
Oooooo, I just reread my post and I like the phrase "loosen the tension".
My new favorite phrase. :cheers:
I have to note that nobody has mentioned that the reason it is so difficult to ge the caliper bracket mounting bolts out is because they not only are on tight but need to be put back tight! If you are reusing the bolts (which GM says to replace every time but nobody does) you need to clean them off well since they will be coated with locktight. Otherwise you will not be able to get good torque on them when replaced. I have used a small diamond file, then a stainless steel brush. If you are certain you have the correct die or thread chaser, you can use that. When the threads are clean, coat with Loctite red, and make certain you torque them back in to 125 lbs. This is easy to do in the front, since you can turn the wheel to get a torque wrench on them. It is difficult or impossible in the rear unless you have the car on a lift, where you can get good leverage from below. The point is - clean the bolts, locktite them, and torque the poop out of them because these are things under much stress and you want them to stay put!
Thanks chuckster! I'm also gonna pre-emptively strike with WD40 on the bolts the night before. Hopefully, this will help loosen the tension.
Good to hear about the paint also.
Oooooo, I just reread my post and I like the phrase "loosen the tension".
My new favorite phrase. :cheers:
WD might not help...
The reason they are so tight is they are on with 125ft/lbs and Locktite on the threads.
Pretty simple job though..Take your time you will love the outcome..
I pulled my caliper brackets and Rotors and brought them to a plater..All you see thhrough my rims are shiny Zinc parts and Red calipers.. :smash:
Whose Rotors do you have? Are they the GM ones?? IF so you better have them plated or after the first rain the hats turn bright orange... :banghead:
Dang, I was hopin' this thing wasn't too complicated.. What does a dealer ( or good garage) charge to do this? No disrespect to you good folks who have replied. Its now simply an economics question now. My time or theirs?
BTW rbeckham your technical knowledge is very much appreciated.
I'll let you know which route I choose. Of course if I screw up you can probably hear me scream, seeing as we're almost in earshot.
I have mentioned in other threads, the bolts must be replaced.
Just go get 4 per axle when you are working on them.
The service information has been changed on Silverados to allow the use of loctite, but NOT Corvette.
The loctite on the new bolts is not the same as the red loctite.
I doubt that the bolts will come loose if properly torqued but I don't quite understand why everyone ignores warnings printed in RED lettering just because they can "get by" without having to spend an extra 10 bucks. (I am not sure how much the bolts cost)
Especially folks who love their cars as much as you guys in here do.
Granted most of you probably didn't know that bolt replacement is called for, you guys get some slack.
Heck, don't feel bad, only 2 guys out of 15 at my dealership know.
(that's why I get all the corvettes)
The bolts get stretched during their initial torque down. They also get twisted. They get twisted again in the opposite direction when removing. How many cycles can they go through? I'd hate to find out. It would be cheap insurance to replace them, after all, what is riding on $4.00 of bolts? The whole damn brake assembly!
Remember to compress the caliper pistons before removing them. That will make the new pads fall right on the new rotors.
Actually, those bolt don't have loctite on them. That red "stuff" on GM bolts is called Vibratite. I purchase it from McMaster. Its a little different than Loctite in that you coat the bolts, let it dry completely, then install.
GM uses it in the production line. The would not want alot of dripping loctite on the floor. Gotta take the plant tour during CI4.. It is a good tour for sure!
This is all great stuff. I will buy the new bolts. I just sent the new rotors out for Silver Cadmium plating. And, thanks for all of the tips. (Including the Vibratite)
"Vette folks are the best! :hurray:
I'm gonna take before and after pictures and post results.
Stay Tuned! :thumbs:
This is all great stuff. I will buy the new bolts. I just sent the new rotors out for Silver Cadmium plating. And, thanks for all of the tips. (Including the Vibratite)
"Vette folks are the best! :hurray:
I'm gonna take before and after pictures and post results.
Stay Tuned! :thumbs:
Aha! You did have the GM Rotors..Smart move....Send the caliper brackets out too..They will look Sweet!!!
Yea, as far as I know they are the GM Dura-stops. From ZIP Products.
Great doing business with ZIP. They helped me out a lot on my '70 and my '87. Always dependable and thorough. :thumbs:
I currently have an order in to Eckler's that should have been filled (delivered) by now. Ordered 5/08 - thought it would be here by 5/14....
Anybody else having mediocre response from Ecklers?
Saw a thread about Jason - just wondering if Ecklers has adopted Jason's 'tude? If Ecklers thinks that they can be snobby and disrespectful of customers, maybe they should just buy GM and hold Corvettes hostage or something...
Now that Italy has backed the US in anit-terror/(kicking the *^&@ out of BS Islamic idiot pussheads )I might just look at a new Ferrari 360 Modena.
Whooo - damn purty car...