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I am going to remove the calipers and caliper brackets (so that I can paint them...I know its **** but hey Im a vette owner :) )...
Should I go ahead an rebuild them ?
Or just tape off the seals?
If I wanted to rebuild them is it easy?
Expensive for new seals?
I guess if I have to remove the calipers I will have to bleed the brake system. I have the bleeding sequence but can someone give me some pointers on how to bleed for dummies (I am going to buy a one man bleeder so it should make the job easier).....
I guess if I have to remove the calipers I will have to bleed the brake system. I have the bleeding sequence but can someone give me some pointers on how to bleed for dummies (I am going to buy a one man bleeder so it should make the job easier).....
you can remove the caliper without having to bleed, as long as you don't crack open the system, but if you do, bleeding the brakes is a 2-person job unless you get "speed-bleeders" which are nothing more than a "check-valve" bleeder :)
Re: Caliper rebuild for dummies..... (Mean Green 2000)
Thanks Mean Green
Crack open the system?
If I remove the calipers I will have to disconnest the brake line (therefore lose a little fluid and introduce air).....is this correct.
I know dumb question...lol
I am gonna take the calipers totally off.... can I just clamp the brake fluid hose shut...and then work with the calipers and reinstall and then make sure air is out of system?.....I need to experiment ...lol
Has anybody used the one man bleeders systems? If so where did you buy them from?
As soon as you open the sealed system, you will be putting some air into it, whether you clamp off the line or not.
If you're **** enough to take the calipers off and paint them, be **** enough to buy a set of speed bleeders and change your brake fluid once a year!!!
You can avoid the whole 2man bleed/ one man bleeder kits with just 4 speed bleeders. Everyone should have a set.
Re: Caliper rebuild for dummies..... (Mean Green 2000)
Thanks Mean Green
Im going for the Speed Bleeders (thanks for the web site!)....
Im going to do a full rebuild of the calipers...
I went in to get my rotors turned and found out that they are past there minimum :cry .... no biggie. Gonna look around on the web for a good price.... thinking about going with slotted if I get a good price....
Anybody know of any good web sites for rotors? and What would you recommend (slotted vs non-slotted vs slotted and drilled btw , Im not a racer)?
Im going for the Speed Bleeders (thanks for the web site!)....
Im going to do a full rebuild of the calipers...
I went in to get my rotors turned and found out that they are past there minimum :cry .... no biggie. Gonna look around on the web for a good price.... thinking about going with slotted if I get a good price....
Anybody know of any good web sites for rotors? and What would you recommend (slotted vs non-slotted vs slotted and drilled btw , Im not a racer)?
thanks
Here are the part numbers for stock rotors:
10445856 rotor front right
10445857 rotor front left
10445858 rotor rear right
10445859 rotor rear left
You can buy them for $240.00 delivered at: http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/
(It will appear that GMpartsdirect has very high shipping but that includes their profit. The final delivered price is quite good)
In my opinion drilled rotors are great for cosmetics but not great performers. Slotted rotors do well at the track but will wear out pads faster.
All will cost you 2X or more as compared to stock rotors.
I have both the Speed Bleeders and the Motive Power Bleeder and the Motive tank is the better method, IMO. There is no pedal pumping involved and no constant checkiing of the reservoir to make sure it doesn't run dry. Just fill the tank, hook it up, pump up the pressure and go from one caliper to the next in quick succession, allowing the pressure tank to supply the purge pressure and fluid.
I have both the Speed Bleeders and the Motive Power Bleeder and the Motive tank is the better method, IMO.
This is great if you are going to completely purge your system and put in all new fluid (I do this once a season). For just bleeding the brakes (say, once a track day) the speed bleeders make it so easy that's all you really need. Pop the center out of the top of a "sport" type bottled water bottle, stick a hose (fuel line hose in the smallest diameter is good), stick the other end onto the bleeder, open the bleeder, and pump the brakes. Simple as that.
If you want to be completely **** about it, as I am, just make sure the bottom of the hose in the water bottle is submerged in fluid so there is absolutely no chance of any air reversing back into the line.
I have both the Speed Bleeders and the Motive Power Bleeder and the Motive tank is the better method, IMO. There is no pedal pumping involved and no constant checkiing of the reservoir to make sure it doesn't run dry. Just fill the tank, hook it up, pump up the pressure and go from one caliper to the next in quick succession, allowing the pressure tank to supply the purge pressure and fluid.
JMHO. :cheers:
Question,
Did you have trouble with your's sealing? I mentioned that I was going to get one and a couple of people in the club said they could never get it to seal right.
Re: Caliper rebuild for dummies..... (Richin Chicago)
You need to do a dry run first. The test run showed me where the chain and cap need to be positioned to get a seal. After that, I used it several times and never had a problem with the seal.
I went in to get my rotors turned and found out that they are past there minimum :cry .... no biggie. Gonna look around on the web for a good price.... thinking about going with slotted if I get a good price....
Anybody know of any good web sites for rotors? and What would you recommend (slotted vs non-slotted vs slotted and drilled btw , Im not a racer)?
thanks
If you replace the rotors, consider having them zinc plated, looks sharp, helps prevent corrosion, costs $80-90. :cheers: