I will install my Goodrich SS lines soon. I have the Service Manual, but would prefer a more detailed instruction in how to do the job. Maybe with some pictures and a way to have the lines grounded to avoid codes . . .

Anybody here who knows a link, or made a nice DIY site ?

Thanks

Jochen

 

no link here , but throwing codes are hit and miss. You can buy braided copper ground straps and that should help. I have Russels and throw a code everyonce in awhile , but I don't have the straps.


[Modified by SHOWTIME!, 12:39 AM 6/14/2003]

 

:withstupid: Mine are throwing codes also which is why I don't play the lottery. :nonod:

 

i will definetaly ground the lines with some kind of ground straps. Really hope this will prevent from throwing codes.
However, i have some good DIY sites for the swaybars/endlinks, Shocks . . .But did not find one link for the brake lines.

Anybody ?

Well i guess if there is nothing, i will take my digital camera and have my wife make some pics of the job.

Thanks for your answers.

Jochen

 

Jochen,
I have installed the lines, yet I do not have a digitial and I have poor typing skills.
May I add these pointers?
1 - The rears are pretty self explainatory. Take note of the position of the stock "clip" that retaines the flex line to the solid line at the firewall. Also note I felt the OEM clip and bolt were of better quality the the Goodridge supplied parts. I personally re-used the OEM parts.
2 - The front routing is critical. Take note of the OEM twist. Once the line is installed...do it loosely....turn the steering wheel to insure clearance. Then tighten. If upon test driving you hear a noise, it is simple to loosen the line at the firewall and twist until you get clearance.
3 - Have a Power Brake Bleeder available. IMPORTANT else you have a pain in the **** bleeding the system.
4 - The codes. At the front lower A-Arm is wiring for the ABS/ TC system. Inspect these wires for chaffing.
I asked this same question some time ago and never really got a definitive answer, as the electircal wave eminate from the hub. Many thought it was the sensor inside the wheel/ hub causing the code and sheilding this area was difficult. My .02 is to pay attention to those wires. In my case I was throwing codes and traced to that wire on the driver side. Now I maybe get a service ABS/ TC error once every three thousand miles.

Please enjoy your modding today.

California Kenny94945

 

Actually, it is a pretty straight forward job. This is to only be a guide, and to discuss what I found. this is not an approved procedeure by GM or anyone else, but it works for me. If you are doing just lines, do one wheel at a time. The Goodridge came with a pretty good set of clips and they fit really tight. I just did a set of Russells for a friend and the clips were crap They were loose and the sholder on the hose fitting was not exactly a good fit without adding spacers to get the clips tight. Don't try to bend them. On the Goodridge you need a small hammer to tap the clips in. Some guys say they don't use the clips?? Given the code throwing?? Try to use them. Use NEW copper washers on the banjo and DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, go by the book torque spec. Try to plan your work so you get a minumun of air in the system. Disconnect from the frame first and immediately put the new hose on hand tight to avoid leaks. Observe how the Banjo is pointing and the routing of the slack in the stock line and try to route the SS line the same way. Stuff the new line up somewhere to stop leaking (I use the trusty coat hanger tool) While you take the stock line the rest of the way off. Then remove the stock banjo and use the new copper washers and connect to the caliper. (Be very careful you do not get fluid on the rotor, or pads.) On the rear the Goodridge are a bit tight. If you have the F45 suspension, you have to remove the suspension position sensor, be careful. I recommend putting a small jack under the rear suspension to lift is slightly to make the rear banjo easier to get on (the teflon sleeves are a bit stiff). Then Bleed all four according to spec. make sure you keep the master cyl topped off! Some use vacuum bleeders (I do) but you can do it the old fashion way also. just make sure you follow the sequence in the manual. (I don't have it handy.) Mine is a 98 with no active handling just TC and F45 shocks. They tell me the sequence is different, actually by Zone. I think for the newer ones it is RR, LF, LR, RF but check it the 98s are RR, LR, RF LF. With the lines on and tires mounted go around and make sure none of the lines are up against the wheel on the inside. They do move around and take a different position after you take the car off the jack stands.

I don't know if I missed anything, but trust someone on the forum will pick up if I did.

I was quite suprised, I didn't think they would change the feel as much as they did!

Good luck
Jerry :thumbs:

 

I replaced my lines without ground straps or such and I have not gotten a single code. What code are you guys getting because the stock lines did not have any ground straps or what not?

Keith

 

Kieth,
For some dumb reason some cars set off a TC code (can't remember the exact code I know it was not an active handling code as two of the cars do not have AH) when they go to SS lines. Mine never did either. I know the GM Techs got involved and there was a recommendation to put grounding straps on and that in fact cleared it up on the vast majority, but I know of one that finally went back to the stock lines as he just could not get the codes to stop.

Some get the rarely, some not at all, some all the time. It appears to be grounding, and or noise some how induced into the speed sensor on the spindals.

It happens with all makes of SS lines. Some said it is the brand but we are seeing it on all brands.

Because it is an add on, GM gave us courtesy help, but obviously will not go any further and I understand that. Hey at least they talked to us and gave us the grounding suggestion, I was suprised they went that far!

My thinking is pretty close to theirs I think it is some form of ground looping in the system. (Electronic~where parallel grounds can generate or retain noise within the loop. Would have to break out the books it has been a few years since I did that level engineering)

Jer

 

Thanks for all your replies. I will do the bleeding the old fashioned way (my wife is already instructed, and did this kind of work before . . . am i a lucky guy, or what ?
I will exchange the brake fluid too, as the old one is in now for about 2 years.

Unfortunattely there where no clips included in the set of the brake lines (only the copper washings). I guess those clips should get replaced when doing the job ?! or is there any issue in using the old ones again ?

Thanks again for the all the detailed instructions, they really help !

Jochen

 

You can use the old clips, no problem as long as you are careful taking them off and they go back on tight. Hum, did't come with clips? Strange, I know the Goodridge came with them, and I think the Russels did also, but maybe not I have Goodridge so I know what was in the kit. The others I did were purchased and already opened buy the guys, so maybe they got the clips somewhere else. That could be a reason the clips didn't seem to fit tightly, but I think it was the position of the slot in the fitting personally. Good luck!

Yea, I have my wife trained on the fine art of bleeding brakes the old way also! And my daughter as well! Actually I am really lucky as my daughter is a gear head, and does all her own work. She is helping me rebuild the 76 shark, and she is a great little bracket racer. the only real problem is I am a road racer/autocrosser and she is a drag racer! Now how do we set the 76 up???

Her boyfriends are intimidated a little by her as she actually knows more about Corvettes, setting up engines and launching cars, and she won't cut them any slack.

Jer

Jer
Jer

 

When you have pictures of your ss brake line install I would really like to see them. I would like to install ss goodridge lines as well but all the talk about throwing codes and having to install copper grounding straps sounds like something I don't want to do. Take good pics

 

dave, i will definitely do so. However, i leave this sunday good old germany for vacation (Miami-Nashville-Bowling Green-Miami) :D :D :D

Will post here when the job is done after my vacation . . .

Jochen

 

my .02.. I got 1226 code when I installed SS brake lines (front right wheel sensor speed errors). Believe it or not, but I wrapped the SS line in aluminum foil to see if would help, and I haven't got a code in a month and 1000 miles. Used to see a 1226 every other day sometimes. I used an ohm meter and found that the resistance between the frame and the SS line was 30 ohms before the aluminum foil and it did not change after the foil.....not sure what this means, but I have no codes. I don't like using the foil as it will come off eventually, so its time to get some copper grounding braids and hope this also solves the problem. Good luck and hope you don't get codes.
Robi