Does the car need to be level to do it properly? What are some tips or suggestions of things not to do?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. You guys were rock stars when it came time for the initial brake swap and I am hoping the same kind of luck.


Thanks in advance,


Sam Mazman

 

Car doesn't need to be level within reason. Some actually gravity bleed the system if was opened at the wheel side only. Don't pump it too fast if bleeding by stroking the brakes. Don't let up too fast either. Not real familiar with the C5 (haven't had long enough to bleed brakes), but if you pumped the C4 too fast you would offset something internal to the master cylinder and cause problems (don't ask how I know this one :crazy: )

 

A set of speed bleeders will be helpful......

 

Bleed level or above level, meaning front or back jacked up. Use long slow pedal strokes. Watch the master cylinder so it doesn't even get close to empty!

Buy 4 speedbleeders and you will never look back!

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

 

This thing is awesome, try it.
http://www.motiveproducts.com

 

If your car is 2001 or newer, the bleed sequence is RR, LF, LR, RF. If you have a 2000 or below, your bleed sequence is RR, LR, RF, LF.

I am pretty sure 2001 was when they went to the diagonal system. If I am wrong, someone correct me.

Some other tips: Use speedbleeders, they make it a 1 man job. Pump the pedal slowly, and DO NOT let the master run dry. You may also want to remove as much old fluid from the master as possible with a bird baster then add fresh fluid. This will make a complete flush go much faster.


[Modified by Jeff Jeff, 1:00 PM 6/6/2003]

 

I used a Motive pressure bleeder that an above poster has alluded, for I have three different types of cars and buying 5 sets of speed bleeders is actually more expensive than the $65. cost for the Motive pressure bleeder.

I wanted to do a look see at the equiptment in each wheel well, so the hardest part of this bleed procedure was to jack up and remove the tires, (which you DO NOT have to do) actually you can bleed the brakes with it being parked.

In regards to the brake fluid, I narrowed it down to Castrol LMA and Valvoline synpower. I chose the Valvoline because it was synthetic and prone to less h2o absorption. (this is probably marketing hype, I just hope it is true) :bs . I needed/used app 28 oz, a tad less than a full 32 oz bottle (5 dollars).

If you want me to be more technical I can, but I noticed that the freshly bled brake fluid made touching the brake almost instantaneous and HARD !! Plus I am told that a bleed is between 60-125 dollars. independent-dealer.





[Modified by ruking1, 12:16 PM 6/6/2003]

 

can you do it without removing a wheel?

 

I would remove the wheels to bleed the brakes since brake fluid eats paint and your OEM wheels are either painted or clearcoated.

 

Yes. It is very easy to do if the car is on a lift.
2 people can do it in 10 minutes.
Dave

 

This is the procedure we use: rr-lr-rf-lf. Open the bleeder, push the pedal down, close bleeder, release pedal slowly. count to ten. DO NOT PUMP THE PEDAL. As stated above, you can turkey baster the master of the old fluid first. I'd recommend doing this yearly.

Mark

 

Sanchez, removing the wheels in the front will make life easy. The rears are OK to do with the wheels on. Removing all four is the ticket for a pristine job.

Second...Ford HD Dot 3 is the bang for the buck brake fluid. Else go Motul. Doug Rippue's website has a tempreture grid of fluids.

 

Also take a look at:
http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3brakefluid.html

I use Superblue now and I never see any bubbles or discoloration after a track event. I change it once a year.

 

Thanks for all the great responses. With the rain in the forecast this week here in CHicago I should have no problem getting this done.

Thanks again,

Sam

 

Indeed it is!

 

This is the correct procedure for the different model years.

Here is the process from the GM manual for 01 and up C5s:

Here is the procedure from the GM manual for 01 and newer vettes:

Notice the brake bleed order. RR,LF, LR and RF.

I would get all of the old fluid out that you can of the reservoir first with a turkey baster.

Steps 1-3 are for bleeding the master cylinder.

4. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with Delco Supreme 11® (GM P/N 12377967) or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level. Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm, when cap removal is necessary.

5. Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, then install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.

6. Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with Delco Supreme 11® (GM P/N 12377967) or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.

7. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain pedal position.

8. Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.

9. Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.

10. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 7-9 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.

11. With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, (after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit), install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 6-10.

12. With the left front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, (after all air has been purged from the left front hydraulic circuit), install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 6-10.

13. With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, (after all air has been purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit), install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 6-10.

14. After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves are properly tightened.

15. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with Delco Supreme 11® (GM P/N 12377967) or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.

16. Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.

17. If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure again. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps:
Inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection .
Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air that may still be trapped in the system.

18. Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF. Check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated.

19. If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, DO NOT allow the vehicle to be driven until it is diagnosed and repaired.

For 97-00 C5s just change the above procedure to RR, LF, RF and LF.