That's because fans aren't set to kick on in the LT1/4s until 230, unless you have the AC on.

 

Slalom4me, thanks for the info. As far as surfactants are concerned I believe a tablespoon of Dawn Dish washing soap would do that. Just having a hard time with a pressurized system with high velocity being affected by the wonder chem. In response to your question of the water percentage I've found that reducing the amount of additive relative to water-cools better and I'm just wondering if the water wetter isn't taking advantage of that. My chemistry is a bit rusty but I'm still having a time with the molecular thermal transfer being effected by so low a percentage of impurities (water wetter). The molecular bond in pure water isn't bad for thermal transfer when it's moving that fast.


[Modified by jimman, 11:15 AM 6/8/2003]

 

Good for lower the running temp 2-3 degrees on my C4 @ 15% antifreeze.
Maybe you could de better with no antifreeze? I was worried about corrosion and forgetting to add antifreeze for the winter.

:chevy


[Modified by Road_runner, 11:25 AM 6/8/2003]

 

We use it in the dragster w/100% water and it works great. I put it in the C5 when I got it and can't say how well it works there, but I'm due for a flush again so will try it again. Worth while in my book! :thumbs:

 

Have a 180 T'stat if interested? model # 1015 by Hypertech $40/delivered. On the car 1 week then went back to stock. Did not want to adjust the fans.

Take paypal

 

The main ingredient in WW is a chemical known as Aerosol (no, I'm not talking about a propellant). Aerosol has a very distinct smell. As soon as you open a bottle of WW, you know what it is.

From my Fisher Scientific catalog:

"Laboratory Aerosol 10% is a remarkable chemical solution which "makes water wetter" because it reduces surface tension and interfacial tension to a considerable degree even though it may be present in very low concentration."

Very interesting in their choice of words about making water wetter. That must be where RedLine got the name.

Using the very unscientific Sniff Test, I guessed that Redline (one bottle) is about 2% Aerosol. So its even lower concentration when put in the cooling system.

We use Aerosol, mixed with dish washing soap, as a surfactant to reduce the chance of air bubbles sticking to hydrophones.

Straight water does have significantly better heat capacity and thermal conductivity than glycol, but it still has a high surface tension.




[Modified by Rx7Rob, 8:04 AM 6/9/2003]

 

I use Redline Water Wetter in my Rolex race car and we have seen 10-15 degree drop. We use one bottle in the system. The first time we used it, was in high altitude. We were racing in Denver, and we had a hard time keeping the temps in a range that we felt comfortable. The Water Wetter brought the temps down to the point that acceptable, and we have used it ever since.

The major advantage to us is that it seems to remove the hot spots in the cyl heads, that would normally boil. It allows us to run more timing because the hot spots are now being cooled due to the reduced surface tension. The coolant is allowed to "touch" the areas that would normally cavitate, and cause those hot spots.

On any car, the basics always apply, and that is to keep the rad clean and free of debris. Just last week a customer came in and said that the LS1 edit tuning that we did was off. The car was overheating ever since we tuned it. I told him that what we did could not have affected the cooling. So, he went and checked his radiator and found a plastic bag stuck to his radiator. Neigher Water wetter or LS1 edit could have improved his cooling.

I know that this is not scientific, but we do not race without it in the system.

Later,

Lou Gigliotti LG Motorsports