Thanks...I'm gonna drive it for a couple of days and keep checking it...when it finally does show "Ready" I'll take it back...thanks again for the help.

 

I have a question that is tangentially related to this thread...

How are y'all "resetting the computer" and "checking the codes". Does this require some sort of software, or is there a function or 'button-press series' on the DIC that y'all are doing?? Forgive me if this information is in the owners manual -- I haven't gotten all the way through it yet.

--dc.

 

Use the "Search function" in this forum in the Archived Topics inputting "DIC Codes". You will find the answers.

 

The info is not anywhere in the owners manual! The good folks at the Chevy dealership would much rather have you take it to them for EVERYTHING! :yesnod:

 

I use both the DIC and EFI Live to see what's going on...I checked it again today and there were no DTC's, and I went to reset them anyway, but then I realized that it reset all of my readiness tests...so instead of it showing 3 Not Ready, now it shows 5. Crap...oh well...know I know what it does...I'll just have to keep driving it some more till everything Restarts again.

 

Here you go
http://www.stengel.net/diccodes.htm

Tom
USAF Retired

 

State Inspection...? What's that? :p:

Dude, there has to be some backwoods shop that will
pass it. That's what I did when I lived in Virginia with
all my other hooptee's(not my Corvette).

:cheers:

 

Carlos

Check fuse # 15. It is the fuse for the "heated 02s". Sometimes with headers the 02 wires come too close to the primarys and melt, or the 02 sims overheat. Either one of these can blow the fuse. This will set the "Not Ready" code.

My car just passed the OBD II inspection even with my G5X-2 cam and heads. It took 3 tries, one fuse, and 2 knock sensors. What most of us forget is that all the sensors are subject to failure on even a fully stock car. And most sensors do fail even without mods. This either sets a code, or it gives a not ready.

I would try the fuse, then the 02sims, or 02sensors. From your own test, you just don't have heated 02s at all, so I would lean toward the fuse.

I used to say, "Texas is the last free state left in America". But with the suckers in the state following all these EPA guideline propaganda, I have my doubts now.

Cars are so good today that very few can comit suicide with a OBDII car exhaust, because it takes too long and tends to make them sick rather than end their life. They have to go and buy an old truck to pull it off now. :lol:

Hope that helps.

LG


[Modified by LG Motorsports, 8:38 AM 7/30/2003]

 

Problem in Calif. is all the machines are now wired in, to central command. They got a very big brother now! It is just a matter of time before they hook your car up and send you the tickets!

In some states they still have some independent shops, but in Calif. I must admit they have the shops pretty much under their thumb. Can't get away with much here. All the shops that I know have been busted at least once and that is even the legit guys.

Jer

 

I have a question as well. I don't have Cats on, but also have all the CAT codes turned off (via LS1 Edit) so I get 0 codes right now.

Since I turned off all the codes (even though I Don't have Cats) will I pass inspection??? :confused:

Just wondering what is involved with the test???????????

I have a legal ceneter section i can bolt in since the no cats is for off road use only, but i was just wondering :D


[Modified by 2001 Red Coupe Bandit, 10:10 AM 7/30/2003]

 

FYI Carlos I have seen it take as many as 500 miles for the I/M Tests to go to complete. Don't clear any codes or reset the PCM and you should be ok. You can have a max of 2 not ready's and still pass. If I can be of any further assistance please let me know.

 

Thanks Lou and Jeremy...yea I think they said that flashing the computer tends to reset everything...I friggin reset my codes yesterday (stupid me) no knowing it would reset all my system readiness tests...but won't touch them anymore till they reset. I still have another 13 days to take it back to them and I can easily put 500 miles on before then...hope this works!!! Thanks.

 

This should cycle all Readiness Tests to "complete".


Driving Cycle (General Motors)

A complete driving cycle should perform EPA diagnostic checks on
all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in less than 15 minutes.

To perform an OBD II driving cycle, do the following:

1. Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

2. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the 02 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and, if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

3. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

4. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the 02 response, Air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

5. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or the clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

6. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in Step 3.

7. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in Step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

8. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in Step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

Do not exceed legal limits performing this test.

Reprinted courtesy of General Motors Corporation.

AT13600 Manual

LEC


[Modified by 1964VETTE, 9:27 AM 7/31/2003]

 

If the COT test is disabled will that part fail?

 

Here in the Denver area we have a real problem. They don't just do an exhaust test, but "drive" your car on rollers. The kid that did mine just loved working that accelerator and six speed, and as a result it flunked. I went and talked to a supervisor, who said that such aggressive "driving" puts in extra fuel. She agreed to retest it herself, and it passed.

 

If you reset your codes, then you will not be able to get your car inspected. It may actually take up to two weeks before some settings in the computer get set before the inspection can be completed.

I'd drive it a week, to and from work, then go back. I had this same exact problem with my '99 SS after the back two sensors when out on the exhaust.

 

What happens if it fails the second time...do I just have to pay again or does something else happen...like a suspension or something?

 

[UPDATE] I took the car to the dealership yesterday and they had it all day yesterday and today...couldn't figure out how to fix it. They contacted the people above them (whoever they call when they can't fix it) and they are waiting to hear back from them. In the mean time they told me to go ahead and drive it around for another week or so. Anybody have any idea what else it could be? I have already had the tuning checked to make sure these tests are turned on. I have already had all 4 O2's replaced as well as the wiring, driven 800+ miles since then, done 5+ GM Drive Cycles...still not working. What is the worst thing I can expect? Would I have to replace the PCM or have it reflashed or something? See it's stuff like that that makes me want to sell the Vette and just get a new one... :smash: