Has anyone done this ??? If so what kind of results did you get? I know, I know, some of you will say if I'm going to do a cam, DO a REAL CAM. But I'm looking for stealth, with stock drivability.

Thanks,
Mike :flag


[Modified by Mikie C, 7:30 AM 8/13/2003]

 

:iagree: ............ :jester :p:

 

There are soooooo many other options for you :yesnod: Think about a Compcam 216/220-525-114 Very quiet but powerful cam...Call www.CompCams.com or even www.Holley.com and go to the Lunati site. The Z06 cam is OK..but there is much more available for the LS1 out there.. :thumbs:

 

We put a 02 LS6 came in my friend's 98 Z28. His 1/4 mile times really did not go down at all so I am skeptical if he even picked up 10rwhp. For the price, and hassle of changing a cam, I would go with something a bit bigger.

If you want something pretty mellow that does not require any PCM tuning to run, I would recommend the 216/224 114LSA. This cam has made 380rwhp in A4 cars when matched with a set of ported heads.

 

Girly Man :nono: Get a real cam you weenie. If you want stealth with good gains check out the LPE cam selection, GT2-3 207/220 .573/.580 117.5CL, now that is a stealth cam.

Best of luck with your search :cheers:

 

:iagree: :lol:

 

Stealth cams:

02 Z06
MTI Stealth Cam
LPE GT2-3
TR OMCII

OMCII is the biggest and baddest of the bunch while retaining a stock idle.


TR Old man Cam 215/220 .600/.523 115 -2LSA
TR Old Man Cam 2 215/220 .602/.602 115-2 LSA
LPE GT2 207/220 .573/.580 117.5LSA


Comp makes a nice cam also:

212/218-.558/.563-115


[Modified by J-Rod, 12:51 PM 8/13/2003]

 

I would call Andy Green at A&A. His phone #:(805)4795885.About last year Andy changed cams in his own veh. about 1 or 2 times a week.The results were interesting.He really has the low down on cams as he personallysaw the performance of the various cams on the market.I wouldn't even consider installing a cam without talking with him first. :chevy :chevy :flag :chevy :chevy

What goes? Where did that sad face come from?It isn't in my reply?


[Modified by ROD BROWN, 9:53 AM 8/13/2003]

 

Hi,
On my ’99 FRC I installed an ’02 cam with Manley springs, cut the heads .020”, tie-wrapped the intake, use late intake plastic and MAF, LS6 intake, LS1_Edit tune, full stock exhaust and got these results:
345RWHP, 12.6 @ 113 on a good day on EMT’s (1.9 60’)
from a baseline of
~300RWHP, 13.0 @ 108 on a good day

The ‘02 cam is indistinguishable from stock in terms of idle quality and mileage.
Good luck,
Steve
:seeya

 

[QUOTE]We put a 02 LS6 came in my friend's 98 Z28. His 1/4 mile times really did not go down at all so I am skeptical if he even picked up 10rwhp. For the price, and hassle of changing a cam, I would go with something a bit bigger.

If you want something pretty mellow that does not require any PCM tuning to run, I would recommend the 216/224 114LSA. This cam has made 380rwhp in A4 cars when matched with a set of ported heads.

:iagree: 100000%. You already are into dragging and modding your car so put in a stealth cam that makes REAL POWER and do this right!!! Look to JROD suggestions as he really knows his sh it as does MATT G!!!!! :cheers:

 

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Girly Man Get a real cam you weenie. If you want stealth with good gains check out the LPE cam selection, GT2-3 207/220 .573/.580 117.5CL, now that is a stealth cam.

:iagree:

It's obvious you have no idea how much of a pain it is to changes a cam. When you do have your car taken apart FINALLY, you will then say, I wish I would of purchased a cam that made more HP...ask alot of the guys here, how they switched to bigger cams. I am sticking to a moderate cam only because of emmisions issues, but if I lived in any other state other than Calif., I would go bigger. Using the Mitchell auto repair standards, it gives a
shop labor estimate of 14 hrs. They charge about $80.00 an hour here in SF, now would you want to put some GM wimpy stock LS-6 cam that might give you 20 hp and spend over $1,100. for an install? Oh yeah, I fogot the price of the cam and and gaskets and new coolant. yeah sounds like $1,350.00 for
a mere 20 hp is a really bad deal. :skep:

 

Why go stealth... I not atttempting to change your mind but, humor me for a moment... Your at a light & that pesty neigbor with the clown shoe (viper) pulls up. You turn & look at his/her mug & watch that viper "I have 500hp" smurk vanish. 20% of time the 'talking smack' is what makes it fun -- heck, whether or not you race. Let 'em know your coming. Just my 2 cents. :cheers: :cheers:

Never-the-less, J-Rod is right on regarding comp cam's 212/218-.558/.563-115. My buddy has one & it sure is quiet.

 

Why go with a stealth cam? My opinion really doesn't matter much, but I will let you know what it is anyway :lol:
Because 20 or 30 rwhp is more than enough for most people. You have to remember that people that put mid size to large cams in corvettes are few and far, how many C5's were produced to date? How many have major mods? How many people would be more than happy to have 360 rwhp and still drive like stock? Just because you may like lopey idle doesn't mean everyone will. And lastly, in NJ the emissions tests are getting extremely strict, it really is peice of mind to keep a mild cam in there and know that emissions won't be a problem.
Thanks

 

mike, why not put in the same cam REDGAR has from the vette drs??? that would make ur car one wicked ride! i have never heard the idle in his car but how could you resist the power and times he is putting out at e-town!

 

His car sounds pretty mellow IMO.

 

Well guys I sure appreciate all the input.

Like vstella mentions there are a lot of choices out there for a power making stealth setup. :crazy:

MattG... Could it be your friend that installed the ZO6 cam, maybe needed some tuning, or was there different weather conditions, you know what I mean, lot's of variables here. The reason I say this is because when I researched this on the F-Body forums, most replies were positive and they got a 20-30 hp increase.

Jrod... I looked at the ones you mentioned and they appear to be good choices. I was just concerned with your favorite, the TR "old man cam" as the intake lift being .600. I wanted to avoid spring issues.

ROD BROWN... Thanks for Andys phone # and I will give him a call, as he is the king of the cam testers. :D

Noran Raad
Yeah I hear ya' . A rumpity-rump will "talk the talk", but as it stands now I may be able to wipe that smirk off his "clown shoe" face with my present setup. Haven't had the chance yet with the Vette, but I have "waisted" 3 with the Syclone. OUCH...bet that hurts :)

Rob... Edgars cam was definitely a thought, as he has really put up some good #s for a cam only car, but he doesn't know the specs. That's a pet peeve of mine, you know, a tuner not giving you the cam card,...I won't buy one from any of those vendors. I want to know what I have in case of future changes.

pkmoose...Do I know you?? :confused: Anyway, Pat pretty much sums up my feelings for a mild cam (he's reading my mind). Another item, I have a feeling that this would be a fantastic Nitrous cam, what with the LSA of 117, as I do plan on spraying it. Wouldn't that be cool... A stock sounding C5 (my car is so quiet it's sickening) ripping off a 10.90 :smash:

Thanks again guys for the input and any more opinions would be appreciated.


Mike :)

 

MikieC , I would talk to TR. They were making as much power with the OMC as they were with a TR230 in the test car. They have extensively tested a lot of cams.

As for springs, I would look at the new Crane doubles. They are a standard Crane double spring for an SBC (as I understand it) which has a good track record (beter than a comp918 or a rev1116). TR has them now. Crane simply came up with some new parts to make it work on the LS series head with no cutting or machining.

Ps, the cams I listed would rock on spray, esp the OMCII


Here is the original thread on the OMC which is a reverse split.
http://www.ls1tech.com/threads/showf...=&fpart=1&vc=1

Call me fickle.

I love going fast like the next guy. That's why I've been running the awesome Thunder Racing reverse split 230/224 111LSA cam for quite some time. It's tops for max power. But I gotta admit something, I sure love the way a stock ZO6 idles and runs. Super smooth idle, no shake, no stinky exhaust, but BIG power. My SS convertible is so nice, I figured I could try to find my own cam that would idle like stock, but still pull over 400 rwhp. Back in the old days on another board, we used to have discussions on what would make for an ideal "old man" car.

Here's what we were trying to achieve:
1 Quiet exhaust, but free flowing
2 Smooth shake free idle, but not wimpy
3 Gobs of torque down low plus great power up high
4 Emissions legal
5 Low underhood noise (stealthy)
6 Wife, girlfriend, police approved

I got a call a few weeks ago from Geoff at Thunder Racing. He said he felt like he had come up with the ultimate "sleeper" cam (or Old Man Cam as I like to call it). The key elements to making power everywhere while keeping a super smooth idle would require using all the latest technology and experience Thunder Racing has developed for the LS1. Here's the cam:

214/220, .600/.527, 115 LSA, -2 degrees ground in

Now look at the specs for a little bit. At first glance, it looks like a conventional "split duration" cam. It is and it isn't. The ramps on the intake are super, super fast. The total area on the intake is quite a bit bigger than the exhaust. In essense, this is really a "reverse split" cam in execution (just like the ones Thunder Racing has had so much success with). The big lift on the intake side allows my SAM ported heads to breathe, but the short duration and wide LSA keeps the idle smooth. Most people make the mistake of running a short duration cam (like a 214-218 cam) with several degrees of advance ground in. This is wrong. When you're running too small a cam, you want to close the intake valve later (to keep peak power up high). We accomplished this by having the cam ground 2 degrees retarded. This allowed the intake valve to close at the same exact time as my 230/224 111LSA cam. Guess what? I still was able to make peak power at 6200-6300, just like my 230/224 cam. Most 214 cams make peak power at 5700-5800 rpms. Not this one. The rwhp numbers stayed with the 230 cam all the way to 6400 rpms (where the 230 kept on pulling). By extending power to 6300, I make at least 10 rwhp over a 214 cam ground +4 degrees advanced. The 214 cam was done by 6500 rpms, but the low and mid range torque and hp matched or exceeded the 230/224 cam. It's like having your cake and eating it too. No small cam I've seen ever made this kind of power everywhere. It flat kicks butt. Idle is smooth. Torque down low is abundant. Pull to 6400 is incredible. I now shift at 6400 vs. 6700 with the 230 cam. Under hood noise is noticably less (since only half the valves have super fast ramps).

Thunder Racing is encouraged by the results. Next they want to install it in a 6 speed car. Keep in mind, this cam was made for MY combination. My heads flow well to .600 lift, so I could use this kind of lift to my benefit. Also, I run double springs. I'm afraid 918 springs aren't up to the task on these super fast intake lobes. Gas mileage has improved, no more stinky exhaust, got to lower idle speed from 900 to 800. Sounds completely stock. Can't ask for much more than that. Call it a 2002 ZO6 cam on steroids, haha.



[Modified by J-Rod, 11:43 AM 8/14/2003]