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I am running 192 on the highway in NJ.....is that normal with my vortex??? My 2000 as I recall ran 187 at times....but my 99 doesnt!
I had my fan temps lowered to 210 on 200 off and thinking of the low temp thermostat(160) figuring if it makes me run rich it will be taken care of when I dyno tune....
Also thinking of venting engine compartment somehow....its WAY too damn hot under there with the headers now....I now make it a practice to open hood after pulling back in the garage to vent it a bit.........since I have the screens in the front over the fogs I am thinking of driling a few holes in the fog lamp housing to creat the inflow....and remove the molding(hoodseal) at the rear(by windshield)to create the "exhaust".....also wish there was a way to use those side ducts...they look cool on the front fenders but wish they were functional........perhaps I will open them up and run some ducting to vent the engine compartment as well......might only be able to do one side with the computer there! Venting the engine bay might not be good for aerodynamics/drag...and defeats the purpose of the performance hood seal!
You need to check that thermostat. I have a Hypertech 160 in Texas. Mine runs about 180 consistantly on the highway. I've read posts where the guys were having problems with other thermostats. Pull it, put it in a pan of water, turn up the heat and see what temp it opens at.
Yes, I lowered the fan temps, actually the tuner did that but they're not on most of the time. I believe one kicks on about 210/215. The other one kicks on about 195/200 and shuts off at 185. I normally run 180 on the highway when it's 95/100 degrees. When the sun goes down it will run about 175.
The normal operating range for an LS1 is 200-210 according to Chevrolet. I have a 178 thermostat and Vinci fan controller and my highly modified 2000 runs normally at 183 in the summer unless in traffic, then goes to 195 or so. Winters here in Michigan it rarely goes over 178.
Fred K.
1st of all the Vortex does cause increased temps when running.. It interrupts a good size area of air flow to the radiator.
I have a 178 stat and my car would hit 185-187 cruising around in 95 degree temps..
When I removed the Vortex and installed the Vararam my temps now hover between 181-183
Lowering the fan temps are really only important when the car is not moving.. Even at that point it's impossible to cool it down any lower than it gets during normal driving anyway. If you try to the fans will just run forever never getting past that static point.
I lowered my fans with LS1edit... I took my car for a drive and noted the static temps during a very hot day 95 degrees. This will be my worst case scenario. I came up with a static temp of 181. I set my fans to turn off a couple of degrees higher than that point. (183). This ensure me that I wont be driving around with the fans on full (Except when the A/C is on) ;)
Yes, I lowered the fan temps, actually the tuner did that but they're not on most of the time. I believe one kicks on about 210/215. The other one kicks on about 195/200 and shuts off at 185. I normally run 180 on the highway when it's 95/100 degrees. When the sun goes down it will run about 175.
Bob
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Smart tuner... ;) I assume by those temps you put a 172 in?
I'm glad that you noticed after the header install that it is way toio hot in the engine compartment. I also do the same and vent out the engine bay when I pull into the garage after a drive. I just bought some thermo tech fiberglass wrap and I ma going to wrap the headers because it makes the dipstick way too hot and I can smell the silicone wires getting a bit too crispy for my taste.
I also purchased and installed spark plug booties. I wish someone would make headers with flanges that are blanchard groundedn or flycut flat after welding and with dual walls or a heat shield. I would gladly pay extra money for the cooling and the noise suppression!
I too knew about the heat problem and here is what I did. I purchased a DRM Heat extractor hood, removed the front fan shroud and removed the plastic plates around the fog light system (now the PIAA system) ;) The air comes in the Z06 screens and feeds the air intake for my Supercharger.
The newly placed deflector (I am not talking about the ACI spoiler) under the nose of the car directs the air over the Single Intercooler through the AC condenser and then through the Be Cool Radiator. The DRM Hood actually reverse flows from the windshield of the car forward (because the windshield area is a low pressure area) and releases hot air out the front holes...
I can say that I have the most ventilated C5 on the block...
An easy way to lower the underhood temps by moving hot air out is to take out the plastic shroud covering the driver side gill. This gives a straight shot from the engine compartment to the outside through the gill opening. I wouldn't do this to the passenger side because the PCM sits there and could be hit by rain easier without the shroud. Set up this way, with long tube headers, a Vortex, and a 160 thermostat my coolant temps run 175 to 185 in summer stop and go traffic, and 170 to 180 in Winter. My fans are set for 185 on and 175 off (primary), and 195 on and 186 off (secondary) :cool:
By keeping my motor cooler I was able to increase my timing advance to 31 degrees in the high load/rpm areas even with my high compression heads (11.4:1) without KR kicking in. :D :cheers:
You need to check that thermostat. I have a Hypertech 160 in Texas. Mine runs about 180 consistantly on the highway. I've read posts where the guys were having problems with other thermostats. Pull it, put it in a pan of water, turn up the heat and see what temp it opens at.
Bob
:flag
:iagree: I have a 160 Stat and relay (no PCM tuning required). My car runs at 180 on the highway, maybe 185 if I'm driving real hard. I only go above those temps if driving in traffic.