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Headlight motor keeps running ??

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Old Aug 25, 2003 | 12:05 AM
  #1  
powderski13's Avatar
powderski13
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Burning Brakes
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Default Headlight motor keeps running ??

After washing my car today, I raised the headlights to clean them. When I switched them off, both headlghts went down but the left (drivers side) motor kept running. I cycled them a couple of times but it continued to happen. I am running T-84 euros with the Daniel Stern relays and custon harness. Any ideas on how to fix ??
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Old Aug 25, 2003 | 12:27 AM
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Default Re: Headlight motor keeps running ?? (powderski13)

It sounds like the gear on the headlight has lost too many teeth. A quick trip to the dealer, and they should replace it under warranty. Also, there's an aftermarket version of that gear made of brass that lasts better than the plastic unit, but it's not widely available (last I heard).

Good luck! :blueangel:
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Old Aug 25, 2003 | 07:53 AM
  #3  
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From: Boynton Beach Florida
St. Jude Donor '07-'12, '20
Default Re: Headlight motor keeps running ?? (powderski13)

http://www.rodneydickman.com/n113.html you can either purchase the gears from Rodney, or if your still under warranty take it to the dealer. Dealer will replace with the same part, ask for the old motor back. I would then call Rodney and order the BRASS GEAR, this way when it fails again you have one waiting. Either way it's painless........... :cheers:
Bob
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Old Aug 27, 2003 | 10:44 AM
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Default Re: Headlight motor keeps running ?? (powderski13)

I had the exact same problem on my '99 Trans Am twice (once on each headlamp door). It was the motor unit in each case. I had the first one replace under warranty, but the second one went after the warranty expired.

I did some web searches and found out how to fix it myself (don't have the url handy). The problem lies in the plastic (crappy) gear that mates to the metal worm gear attached to the drive motor. You can fix it by prying the plastic assembly apart and rotating the plastic gear. It is a round gear but only about 1/4 of the teeth mesh as the door is actuated. So you can just move the part with the broken teeth so that they don't mesh with the worm gear, put it together (with epoxy), and you're set.

I realize it's difficult to visualize with no pics...I will try to dig up the url which has the procedure with pics.

Obviously if you can get it replaced for free go ahead and do it. But if it's not free, I have a problem with paying >$100 for a whole motor/gear assembly due to one little plastic broken gear tooth.
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