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While cruising yesterday, I exsperienced a total power loss, accompanied by the following DIC messages (Traction control malfunction, reduced power, check engine light) while at a busy intersection in town. Boy was I popular at the time as I crawled along at 2 MPH through the intersection to the nearest parking lot with Zero throttle responce. Felt like I was driving a FORD! I got the car stop and shut down. I waited a minute and refired the car. Engine sounded normal, I reved up the engine and it responded to the gas pedal postion. I arrived home later after I decided to take the car for a cruise to see if the problem would duplicate itself again. The car drove fine. I pulled the following codes from the DIC (PMC 1518H, TCS C1278H. Has anybody had this happen to them? Could anybody give me some insight on these codes. Should I take it in to the dealer before I have a total system failure?
Or just continue to drive and monitore my DIC alot closer?
Thanks for your assitiance
Re: Total Power loss while normal driving (Zturb00)
After exstracting my codes I deleted them from my DIC. I'm going to take the car out this coming weekend and see if I get any reappearing codes from last weekend. I did drive the car the rest of the day with the traction control "OFF". I always have the sysem active due to the rear end breaking loose in turns under hard excelaration. I drove the car hard and it performed like a champ. Hopfully it was just a weard gremlin and it's gone!!!
The reason your car did that was due to the P1518 code. I had a similar problem when I had my 2000. Dealer ended up replacing the TAC module. The computer will go into some serious Limp Mode when the PCM and TAC module lose communication (imagine the throttle being wide open). I think I have read about other things that will cause this, but mine really was the TAC module (and it got worse fast). Now for the simi-good news. If it ever happens again, reset the codes and if it is intermittent, you will have your car back. There are 3 ways to do this that I know of 1) leave autotap connected all the time :jester 2) use the IPC to reset the code (I got really fast at that), or 3) some have said if you turn the key to start (don't turn it off) that it will also reset the codes (of course if your starter interlock is not working you "could" crack your starter :mad ). Good luck, and since it's out of warrentee (I guess), wait for others to chime in :seeya
Re: Total Power loss while normal driving (Joe C5)
When it happened to you? Did you shut the car off then restarted it? Did it act normal? How long after did your TAC sart acting up? I only have 58k on my 98 vette. Can I change my TAC? Or should I leave it up to the dealership?
Mine happened within 6 months of buying the car. Probably a defective TAC module (that being said, I would think with the age of your car, other things "could" come into play). I found turning off the car and restarting it was a PITA. It would sometimes fix the problem, othertimes not (mine got worse real fast). I also found that just using the IPC to reset the codes was the best way to go (I did run around with autotap set up to clear codes when I hit the space bar :eek: but like I said, it got real bad). Obviously that works better at a light than when driving down the highway. Only you can say if changing out the TAC module is within your capability. I could do it (and I'm not a mechanic). As to going to the dealer, well, I hate doing that if I don't have to (and I have a really good dealer), but if it's NOT the TAC module, then where are you (I have no idea what they cost, but I bet it's not cheap). Of course the dealer is going to charge you a bit too... I was hoping others would chime in so you could get a feel for the odds (of it being the TAC module).
Re: Total Power loss while normal driving (Joe C5)
No I haven't touched the battery, but the car when purchsed new had a bad battery from the factory. It dumped in the first 3k miles. So the battery in the car know is at least four years old. I was thinking of bring the car to True Value/Discount Auto and have them do an in car volt/amp check. I might just be loosing my battery, and is this the cars computers way of letting me know that I have a volt problem. What does TAC stand for? Where is the TAC located on the car? I'm pretty mech inclined. Just don't have my garage to work out of, due to being separated from my family due to my new carreer. I do have access to a hobby shop. I'm also planning on disconnecting and reconnecting my battery to see if this will help my AC vents system re-learn is full Hot/Cold limits while moving the temp control element doors. Haveyou hear the guys in the forum talk about running in the Stealth mode (pulling the fuse to turn off your day time running lights)? I did it I got a code for them also, but is because I pulled the fuse. Trying to fix as much as I can before I talk to the dealership. Got to make this vette last 11 months until my 04 Zo6/Z16 arrives. I can't wait
Thanks for responces, some help is better than none at all
Battery + Florida = 2 years max (well for me anyway). Reason I asked is the Vette has two issues with the battery: 1) Evil Side posts are hard to attach without arcing, which can lead to dead electronics (try turning your tv on and off a hundred times real fast and see what happens) 2) Evil Side posts are prone to leack even more evil battery acid on car (and guess who is right below - yup PCM and TAC modules along with a hundred really tiny wires). TAC stands for Throttle Actuator Control. It is located behind the passenger front tire (Jack up car, remove wheel, remove plastic liner, attempt to remove PCM and TAC, curse, remove, done). As far as stealth mode is concerned, there were some posts from a couple of years back where they figured it out. Something about making sure a post on a relay does not make contact if I remember correctly.
My '99 vert did the same thing the day I bought it. Limped home, shut it down, disconnected the battery for 30 minutes. After reconnecting the battery, all was OK. Although the battery went dead the next week and I replaced it.
Hasn't happened again since. It's been 1 1/2 years.
Re: Total Power loss while normal driving (Joe C5)
I am starting to think it's a bad battery problem, soI'm goin g to have it checked this weekend. I will pull the right front and take a look behind the fender inter-linner.. Is the liner held in place with those cheap plastic fasterns with the center that slides out to release the clip? I haven't had a chance to stick my head in the wheel well yet. I'll check out my battery and let you know what I find