By the way, you diehards that are holding onto the 3k interval with a death grip, need to read this humorous link:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/3mp/3koil.html

:)


[Modified by Patman, 8:09 PM 9/5/2003]

 

ok guys, it just so happens that i got my oil sample results back today. i was going to try to get in touch with patman because i have seen himn talk about oil analysis a bunch. i found this thread and i seem to have some pertinent data you may find useful.
i have 99 hardtop, 62k (bought with 14k) and 99 vert, 52k (bought with 9k)
i have never been a fan of the 3k oil change, maybe it was necessary 15-20 years ago, but not IMO with todays oils, especially synthetics like we use. i change the oil in both vettes when the computer tells me to. usually this is between 5500 and 7k miles. i heard about this oil sampling and wanted to see how my engines are doing. i only had one sample kit so i sent in the hardtop because it has more miles. i do not know how to show the picture, so i will tell you the comments from them....
JAKE: Your 1999 red Vette looks like it’s in good condition. Wear levels were low for this type of engine (see universal averages). On average, the oil samples in the universal file have been run about 3,600 miles. Your oil was in use 5,517 miles, and wear is even lower than averages. We can tell you’re taking good care of this one. Silicon was okay at 11 ppm, butthat number might be improved by checking/changing the air filter. No moisture, coolant, or fuel was present in the oil. Nice Engine!
i will send out the vert next oil change and probably keep doing this on both. seems like a better way to check your engine than more frequent oil changes.
ps - i have a vortex intake filter on the vert and a twin flow intake on the hardtop. both are k&n types and my silicon levels are 11, 10 is the average.

 

for those that dont know, http://blackstone-labs.com will send you a free test kit. $20 is the cost of the test
if anyone wants to see my results to get an idea, i will email it to you

 

Yes, the LS1 is available in F-bodies, but its not the same exact motor.

Second, a K&N have larger "holes", but throgh multi layering and having the media contain oil on it, it holds more contamninents.

 

I do it myself at 6 months or 3K. It may no need it but it makes me feel good. Sid.

 

ChasNMe, could you post the results of your oil analysis? In particular, what were the levels of iron, copper, aluminum and lead? Did you get a TBN reading too?

 

It is pretty darn close though, the only main differences are the oil pan, the cam is very slightly different, and the Vettes got drive by wire so the throttle body electronics are different. Other than that, the rest of the engine is the same. Even though the f-body LS1 was rated lower, the truth is that it makes the same power as the Vette's LS1. I know many guys who dynoed over 310rwhp stock (meaning it's putting out 340-350 flywheel) My own LS1 dynoed 320rwhp with just a few simple mods.

 

dont know how to post a pic of it, but....
aluminum me 4, avg 5
iron me 13, avg 14
copper me 10, avg 43
lead me 9, avg 8
no tbn

 

This is with Mobil 1 5w30 or 10w30 isn't it? The numbers are good, but believe it or not they could be better if you ran something slightly thicker, such as Redline 5w30/10w30, Amsoil 5w30/10w30, German made Castrol 0w30, or Mobil 1's 0w40. An ideal amount of wear to shoot for as far as iron and lead goes, is about 1.5 ppm per 1000 miles. Smaller engines can see better than 1ppm/1000.

 

Here is an example of a 2002 Corvette running Amsoil 5w30 for 5900 miles:

Iron-13
Lead-1!
Aluminum-2

 

Don't forget Amsoil's 0w-30.

 

Amsoil's 0w30 is a great oil but is slightly thinner at 11.3cst at 100c though, vs 11.9 for the 5w30, plus the 0w30 costs a few bucks more.

 

That's because there is less of a variance between the weight and viscosity. But the 0w-30 is a better oil than the 5w-30.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by less of a variance between the weight and viscosity, since those two terms are interchangable.

It's true the 0w30 is a better engineered oil, but only in such a way that it's better for long drains, as it's TBN will retain itself longer. But if you're doing oil changes at less than 15,000 miles, the regular ASL 5w30 Amsoil will show just as good wear numbers as the 0w30. The only real benefit of the 0w30 is if you're going to go beyond 15k on your oil changes, or if you're driving in much colder temps.

 

Patman the 0w-30 protects better than the 5w-30. Amsoil clearly expresses this if you ask them.

The closer the spread, 0-30, 5-30, 10-30...etc, the higher the Kinematic viscosity at 100 Celcius will go.

 

As for your question concerning the oil change intervals I would venture to say that the previous owner took really good care of his car. I think it should be mentioned that you cant really change your oil too much but on the other and is it necessary to do it every 3k miles. I believe this is a preferance question more so than an efficiency question. I have used Mobile 1 and Amsoil and have changed my oil at 7k miles. As alot of said, the 3k mile changing intervals are a thing of the past. As of right now my car does not burn oil at all. In fact I could probably increase the change interval. One thing that I do often is change the air filter. I have read alot of articles that state for the best filtration use paper filters. When you think about it, most of your contaminants come into your car this way. I have read the ongoing study performed by the person checking sevice intervals and life expectancy of the oil. It is a very interesting article. Most , if not all, oil service centers dont have a problem with taking your money for an extra oil change. Either way, your car or possibly future car has been well taken care of.

 

Newbie question, kind of off topic. I just got my vette last month and haven't changed the oil yet so when the warning message that I was low on oil came on, I went out and got some Mobil 1 15W-30. Then right before I went to change it I realized that it initially took 5W-30 and the manual says not to go higher then 10W-30. Should I go back and get different oil, or is the 15W-30 that I have ok to use? Thanks

 

Not true, there are oils out there in 10w30 form with viscosities of 10cst at 100c, like Mobil 1, and other oils in 0w30 form with viscosities of 12.1 cst at 100c, like German made Castrol.

As far as 0w30 showing better wear numbers, not true. I know a few people, some of them Amsoil dealers, who have tried out both the 0w30 and 5w30 (or 10w30) and found no difference in wear at all, not even in 12,000 mile intervals. Like I said, the difference lies in the fact that the 0w30 is designed for longer drains, so it's additive package is designed based on that.

 

OK, when I speak about the various viscosities, I am stating they perform to the kinematic behaivors per the oil barand. Yes, Mobil 1 is lower, but it's a different oil. But I am sure they follow the same pattern I described within thier brands.

The 0w-30 has better flow at colder tempratures. As you know, most wear occurs during start up, so, since the 0w-30 flows better it will protect better at startup.

And to top it off Patman, my cousins, fathers, best friends formal roomate who met at bobistheoilguy.com knows Al Amutzi over at Amsoil and Al told him its better and I found out through them. So there.


[Modified by Sabby, 1:38 AM 9/7/2003]

 

In answer to the original question, if you are considering this car for purchase, you shouldn't let the maintenance schedule used by the previous owner deter you. The motor is fine with the schedule he used. The fact that he changed the filter is impressive as well.

I am running Amsoil, and will submit my second oil analysis later this fall. My first sample was excellent.