'Safe' jacking point?
Cheers,
Ian.
:cheers:
It LOOKS like the chassis at that point is aluminium, but surely it's steel, right?! I always feel a little squeamish when I jack the car... esp. when the jack starts creaking and I have horrifying visions of a loud crack and something breaking under the strain! Even though I've jacked hundreds of times, I still get nervous!
:cheers:
If you do this rememeber to use a piece of wood or weight plate to span the cross member. :cheers:


If you do this rememeber to use a piece of wood or weight plate to span the cross member. :cheers:
Turn jack inward toward car!

[Modified by wallstAL, 9:49 AM 9/8/2003]
Next I swap the thicker piece of wood for a thinner one on the jack pad for better clearance under the rocker panel and jack just behind the front wheel on my A&A Rocker Rails. Because I have the Rocker Rails, I can jack anywhere on the rails I choose. Sometimes I jack the front from this position and let the car back down. Then I push the jack to the middle of the center crossmember, jack the car up and place ramps under both wheels. The reason I can do this is because, when I jack the front up and let it down slowly, the shocks are partially charged (filled) and keep the body from sinking back all the way down, leaving just enough room for my jack to slide under. In this case I used an extra step. Below is a pic of the pad on the rail, ready to jack.
As you can see, the C5 frame is so rigid, the entire side of the car is jacked - even from this foward position.
After the front is up, I place a ramp under the driver's wheel, let the car down, jack at the crossmember, and place the passenger wheel on a ramp. Below is a pic of the quad-rhino setup. Notice I face the ramps in opposite directions to prevent the car from rolling in either direction. Makes for a small working footprint also.

Most of the time, I use the first, shorter method. To put the car back down, I jack the car up, remove both front ramps, let the car down with a piece of wood under the driver's wheel for safety clearance, jack the car at the driver's rocker rail again to extract the wood and let the car down. Then I let the rear down (with the fronts blocked. of course) from the center of the rear crossmember after removing the ramps.
I know it sounds like a lot but it only takes me a few minutes, I've done it so many times.
[Modified by Patches, 7:32 PM 9/8/2003]
Normally 200, on sale for 149, there's as good as or better deals on the internet if you shop, but did it, and I have to say, quite impressed!!!!! Very light, and pumps up quick. Not cheap compared to some of the all steel ones, but I'm getting old, so "flippin" it around by the handle, cool!!!!! :smash: :smash:
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