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Autometer pod gauge wiring

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Old Sep 22, 2003 | 12:09 AM
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Default Autometer pod gauge wiring

I'm looking for clues on power and lighting the autometer gauges.

Apparently the autometer gauges calibrate on power-up, and because of that don't like power which goes off when the key is in 'start' position. What wire provides power both during cranking and in the 'on' position?

I've read a few posts on dash lighting and dimming. The dash lights are fluoresent and the ground is dimmed, but apparently it's not enough ground to light up the autometer gauges brightly. Anyone find a wire that works?

I do have the dash torn apart since I'm also doing the aluminum dash gauge bezel install.
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Old Sep 22, 2003 | 03:35 AM
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Default Re: Autometer pod gauge wiring (blu00rdstr)

To be more accurate, it's the boost/vac gauge that needs power during crank and on position:

"Most vehicles break the electrical connection to accessories while the engine is being started. If the boost gauge is connected to one of these circuits, the auto zero function will not work properly and inaccurate readings will result."
http://www.autometer.com/hp/instruct...ctions/569.pdf
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Old Sep 22, 2003 | 09:44 PM
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Default Re: Autometer pod gauge wiring (blu00rdstr)

ttt
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Old Sep 22, 2003 | 10:23 PM
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Default Re: Autometer pod gauge wiring (blu00rdstr)

i would think any "switched" power source will work..... get in there with a wire tester and start checking wires...


[Modified by SSTRUCKNGUY, 7:24 PM 9/22/2003]
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Old Sep 23, 2003 | 09:11 AM
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Default Re: Autometer pod gauge wiring (SSTRUCKNGUY)

You might want to ask AotoMeter about this. I would think that when you hit the starter, the voltage on all of the busses will go to a low number transiently. Anyhow, they would know. Then give us all a heads up!
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Old Sep 23, 2003 | 03:02 PM
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Default Re: Autometer pod gauge wiring (George Cooper)

Hey guys, I sent Autometer the question. I'll post their reply. Good suggestion George.
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Old Sep 23, 2003 | 06:31 PM
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Default Re: Autometer pod gauge wiring (blu00rdstr)

Autometer responded!!!
The power supply for the vac/boost gauge does matter as you suspected. The gauge actually has a micro processor built into it and it takes a snapshot of the current conditions during the cranking cycle and calibrates accordingly. I looked into my wiring diagrams and found that the pink wire coming out of the ignition switch is a power source during crank and run. You can also use a "add a circuit" adapter available from most general auto parts stores to get this same power from several different fuses. This piece or adapter simply plugs in, in place of an existing fuse, you re-install the fuse you removed into this adapter and it also houses a separate fuse for your power output. The gauge draws so little power, I would not run more than a 5 amp fuse for the gauge. The fuse #'s that are appearing to be power during crank and run are #'s 15, 16, 13, 20, and 19. These are available at the under dash fuse box.

The lighting will be a little more difficult. Until we can do some more research, I would recommend that you run the power side of the lighting to the brown wire at the ignition switch, which is tail light power. Run the ground, simply to a good common ground source. If you want the intensity of the lighting to be adjustable, you can run a simple rheostat on the power side. If you run it to the brown wire as indicated, this will give you warning of malfunctioning tail lights if that ever were to happen. I hope this is helpful.

Thank you Cory Tech/Service
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Old Sep 23, 2003 | 11:09 PM
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Default Re: Autometer pod gauge wiring (blu00rdstr)

I agree with the first paragraph, but the second one has me worried. Hooking into the rear brake lights to light the gauges is not smart at all. Just hook the gauge lighting to the dash/radio light circuit and they will dim along with them. I will see if I can find the wire color and location for the dash/radio light circuit.
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Old Sep 24, 2003 | 02:53 PM
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Default Re: Autometer pod gauge wiring (MTWallet)

I agree with the first paragraph, but the second one has me worried. Hooking into the rear brake lights to light the gauges is not smart at all. Just hook the gauge lighting to the dash/radio light circuit and they will dim along with them. I will see if I can find the wire color and location for the dash/radio light circuit.
He didn't mention brake lights, just the tail lights. The fluoresent dash lights are dimmed through a flicker mechanism, which apparently isn't good for standard lights. The little bulbs in the gauges shouldn't draw much power at all, it probably isn't noticable from the taillights.

...The reason I recommend the tail light circuit is due to the wiring diagram indicating the dash light circuit as being a PWM circuit. This is similar to a square wave, which will cause an annoying flickering on the Cobalt, C2, and Lunar gauges. On a incandescent type of light, the flickering is not as noticeable. Going to the rear tail lamps will not hurt anything due to the amperage draw of the gauge lighting being so minimal. I hope this clears up the response I made earlier.

Thank you Cory Tech/Service
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Old Sep 24, 2003 | 07:04 PM
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Default Re: Autometer pod gauge wiring (blu00rdstr)

ON my wiring I used the wired from the middle console where you run the active handling. You can get to the wires there and run the wires up the console along the dash to the pod.

Here are the instructions I went off from. This works with dimming the lights as you dim the dashboard lights as well.

This is a conversation from here awhile back that help me out. Look at the last two paragraphs, one talks about connecting from the Active Handling. The other behind the AC and radio



I'm installing boost and fule pressure guages and want to tap into the dash lights for the back lighting. Where can I tap in without tearing the dash apart?
_______
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Jerry Velders
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Re: Tapping into dash lights (QuickSilver2002) 3:34 PM 9/19/2002


I don't know how much of a pain it would be to do under the dash, but you might take a look at the way users of the Flameball shift **** get power. They tap into the power going to the TC/AH button on the console, which is connected to the dimmer circuitry. This button's wiring is apparently pretty easy to get to, and it might be easier to tap in there and run a wire to the dash than it would be to tap directly into the dash wiring. Just a thought, hope it helps.
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Re: Tapping into dash lights (Jerry Velders) 8:52 PM 9/19/2002


Jerry is right, use the ORANGE and BROWN wires going into the active handling and traction control button.....it is in that circuit and will dim and light with the dash lights
just have to run it to your gauges from that area

hope that helps
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Johnno
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Re: Tapping into dash lights (QuickSilver2002) 10:12 PM 9/19/2002


Take off the center console cover so that you can remove the facia around the radio & AC controls. Unscrew the AC controls and pull them out a little bit. The conector on the back has one yellow wire all alone near the top of the plug. Use this as it is the same circuit that the insturment cluster light dimmer controls. Get the common ground (negative) anywhere on the vehicle. Yes, the traction control button wires will also work, but then you have to run a wire all the way up to them. The wire on the back of the AC controls is closer.
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QuickSilver2002
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Re: Tapping into dash lights (Johnno) 10:29 PM 9/19/2002


Thanks guys,
This helps a bunch.

:cheers:
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