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Hey guys,
i have no idea how those torque convertors work.. i have heard that they are an easy replacment that can bring a very noticebale difference.. in some cases .5 in your ETs.. here are the questions:
1- what am i gonna lose if i switch to an aftermarket torque convertor?
2- what does the stall mean? i think its the number 2800 3000 3500 but wat does it mean?
3- what should i choose for my friends 01 coupe?
4- which brand?
5- what kind of performance shoudl i expect?
1- You have nothing to lose , you can only gain. Faster shifting , smooth accelaration , reduced 1/4 time ( depending on stall ) etc.
2- Stall technically ( i think here if im wrong can someone correct me ) is the rpm speed at which the wheels will overpower your brakes when applied. This enables you to launch at a higher rpm than idle. For instance in a 3500 rpm you apply the brakes then rev to about 3000 - 3250 (actual stall speed differs than advert- you will have to determine yourself ) the car will just rev then when the christmas tree goes green let go of the brake & voila you start at that rpm. This is also called flashing the converter sometimes i believe. Drag terms i guess
3- Choice largely will depend on application & I suggest this is done in combination with a diff ratio change. for instance 3500 stall & 3.73 Diff is very popular.
4- your choice here & how big is your wallet. I went with SLP although a lot of people like yank.
5- Hp will go down on the dyno- if done with diff change ( too technical to expalin there is a thread with the full explanation do a search ) but like I said acceleration & smoothness will be better & times will reduce. "Freeway Power"/Overtaking speed will go up as well.
Hope I was helpful. And Forum Experts if anything i said needs correcting please tell us I am a newbie also & learning from you is how we get better. :thumbs: :steering:
A high stall T/C is a MUST on an A4 if you want performance. I would go with a Yank SY3500 if your friend is going to be running street tires. Or I would choose the Yank ST3500, SS3600 or SS3800 if he plans on running DRs or ET streets. I would also install at least 3.42 or better yet 3.73 gears at the same time I did my converter, the gears will give you better driveability and better performance. With good traction I would expect an .70 improvement with DRs especially if your friend has 2.73 gears. Driveability on the highway will be the same once the T/C locks up. :cheers:
ALL the major brands are good and the car will "wake up" with one. Just do a little research on the forum and decide, I however really like the ProTorque brand for a dual purpose car. I ran a 2900 and a 3200, drove the car every day after the install (put it in at 7100 miles) and never had a problem. That converter was in for over 50,000 miles, and the second for 20,000, now since going to the "all out" style I've gotten 10,000 miles on 3 "others" after 4 transmissions....although it may not be related, but you can't dispute the facts.
so this is wat you guys are saying:
the stall number is the highest rpm i would be able to hit before the car starts doing a burout? why is changing the diff a must with the torque convertor?
does it affect top speed or accelration?
Like I said, changing the diff ratio at the same time is not a must but it is preferred for a number of reasons :
1- You save on labour :)
2- The shifhing feels more firm ( a sense that some people start feeling after a tc change)
3- Accelaration is much quicker ( smaller gears ) + top speed is higher.