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I am trying to fix my second broken vavlespring, and am affraid I have major problems.
I am trying to air up the cylinder through teh spark plug hole, and the air isnt keeping the broken spring and valve up. Is this a definate sign of a broken, bent valve? :(
if you have a bent valve,with the valves closed you should hear air going out the exhaust or coming through the intake.1]make sure you have enough air pressure.2]put it back together and do a compression and leakdown test.
the piston for that cylinder should be at top dead center.if it's not you won't be able to fill that cylinder with enough air without spinning the crank.if you are not at tdc,put it back together,spin the engine so that cylinder is firing[valves closed and cylinder at tdc].you said that this was your 2nd broken spring,is it on the same cylinder?
No different cylinder this time. Last time it was the last intake valve on the drivers side, this time it is the second intake valve on the drivers side.
So, somehow I have to get the motor to turn over. I haven't got the right tools for this right now.
I guess I got lucky last time, and the piston was already TDC.
first,put it all back together.second,do a compression test and leakdown test if possible.it shouldn't take alot of air pressure to fill the cylinder[unless the piston is down].once you replace your valve spring,find out why you keep breaking them.have you changed your rocker arm ratio or gone to a higher lift cam?if so,did you change out the stock valve springs?
So the compression test will tell me whether or not the valve is bent?
To do the comp test, I am gonna have to start the car. I dont want to do that with the broken spring.
Okay, I am stupid. I still had the schrader valve in the line. Therefore it wouldnt let the air into the cylinder.
The inner and outer Rev spring broke. The compressor wont shut off, and I can slightly hear air coming through. The valve seal and all is ate up too.
Okay, the air was escaping through the intake, therefore I believe I have a bent valve.
Both the inner and outer spring are broken, and I can see cracks in 2 other springs. The valve seal is ate up.
So with the air excaping out through the intake, I am gonna need to take the heads off.
This has not been worth the money, at all. I never even got to take my car to the track, or race anyone. 3500 miles, 2 broke spring, 2 that I can see are cracked and about to go. I would love to have the 2-3000 dollars I spent on all this crap back.
Looks like I may be shopping for heads.
Presonally, I would pull the head and change to a different brand of springs. Pulling the head isn't that much extra work and well worth the piece of mind. But, I really like that cam you are running minus the broken spring issues.
I am running, a G5X-2 with Rev dual springs retainers etc. It was a package deal back in May through LGM. Apparently there is some major problems with the springs. I have broken 2 now, and have 2 I can see cracks on. My friend who got his installed same time as me has broken 1 and another member of the forum has broken 2 also.
I've heard of recent problems with the Rev duals. That is what I'm running on my MMS setup but these are at least 15 months old from an older batch. The problems I'm hearing on this and other sites has to do with a more recent batch like your's. Similar to CC's problem with the 918's.
If I were you, I'd just bite the bullet and change them all to something else, maybe an Isky or Manley. Heck, I've been thinking about pulling mine and going to a better set rather than waiting to see if mine are going to start popping as well.
Presonally, I would pull the head and change to a different brand of springs. Pulling the head isn't that much extra work and well worth the piece of mind. But, I really like that cam you are running minus the broken spring issues.
Lou sent me a new set of Isky springs, retainers, etc. to replace the defective Rev's.
I am debating pulling the heads right now. I need to, but don't have my tools at the house, they are all at work.
it's bent.sorry to hear about your dilema.pull the heads,change all of your hardware,make sure you didn't hurt the piston.some pistons can't take too much of a shot.if it hits too hard,the piston tends to smash the upper ring land down,causing the upper compression ring not to spin[not good]!
I wouldn't worry about pulling the motor. Crushing of the upper ring land would be highly unlikely. I would pull the head and take it from there. Probably needs a new valve and valve job for that vavle, and inspection of the guide on that vavle(should be fine).
My biggest concern would be in finding a good set of springs next, that's an awfully big cam and I would definitely want a good set of springs for it. Otherwise you'll sadly be repeating all this in the future.
when you get the head off,take a look at the top of the piston.if the piston smacked the valve hard enough,you will see the top of the piston will have a impression of the valve on it.if you have both heads off,turn the crank and look at the cylinder wall and see if you have any grooves in it.if so,more than likely the ring land is pinched.first see how bad the damage is in the head,then worry about the cylinder.
If you want to check if the ring land is pinched. Any cylinder that has valve marks on it, you put it at top dead center. Once it's at TDC you rock it up and down(pivoting it on the wrist pin) it should move pretty smoothly. If the ring land is pinching on the top ring it won't slide in and out of the ring groove freely, restricting the pivoting motion. This isn't 100%, but it's a pretty good method without removing the piston from the block.
Max@Cartek.net
P.S. - The piston pivot isn't a whole lot because of the small piston to wall clearance.