:cry im on my way home and i had to get on it just 1 time well i let it go in 1st ( very bad wheel hop ) when i shifted to 2nd and leted out on the clutch nothing happend the clutch did not grab now when i shifted in to 2nd it was fallowed buy a high pitch high speed and very loud chatter sound almost like stripped gear grinding but the noise is too fast sounding to be a gear i think now after that the abs-tsc-active handleing codes came up on the d-i-c
so i put the car in N let out the clutch and costed back home (no noise) i shut the car off came to a stop started it back up all the codes whent out but it still makeing that noise the car still pulls in all 1-2-3-4-5-6 and R if you drive it real slow in wont make the noise but if you try to acclerate the car stops pulling and just revs up and that noise starts again i dont know if i blew the clutch or not i hope that s all i did :cry but the noise sounds like its comeing from the back half of the car i know the tranny is in the back but is the cluch back there too ??? i've never been in one that deep before if anyone has any idea what may have happend or anything please help :confused: :cry :cry :cry :cry

 

:cry good luck with your repairs....... :cheers:

 

please somebody any body any info ? :(

 

Maybe your couplers on the drive shaft.
Good luck,
JB

 

Sounds nasty...I'd like to know... :lurk:

 

Sounds like you Taco'd the rear axle. Put the car in neutral, jack the back end up and spin a tire, if it sounds like marbles...Toast. Think of it as a good opportunity to put 3.73's or 4.11's in there.

Adversity breeds opportunity. :seeya

 

:iagree: Sonds like the rear end output shaft is TOAST! OR the Tranny output shaft is TOAST!

 

I'm thinking the same. Time to open the wallet and upgrade.

Maybe this means your makeing more power ?


Good Luck !

 

My condolences from one who knows that sinking feeling when you just did something that hurt your baby, and it's bound to cost you plenty.

Except for the marbles, sounds alot like when I lost my clutch, and had to limp home fromt the track at 30mph for 62 miles.

I would start with definately getting a new clutch, now your R&R labor is all the same, wether you or someone (hopefully not the dealership) is doing this, then I would just have enough money to get a new rear and output shaft standing by if that is indeed gone too

If that was the stock clutch and you are running mid 12s that was bound to happen. If you are sticking with this level of HP I suggest the 02+ LS6 clutch-flywheel, if going past that, might want to think about something stronger. (I know I am now).

After several heartbreaks, the only really good advice I can give, is to take this opportunity to make the car better. Like a 3.90 rear and a hardened shaft, better than viagra! When its all said and done, you'll be broker, but at least the kick in the butt will give you something to smile about.

Good luck!

 

update i took the car to the chevy dealer bout 20 miles away and that high speed high pitch sound started to sound more and more like the clutch slipping and also the slippage got worse i hardly got the car up to 40 mph with out the slippage thats why i just hopeing its the clutch i blame 1st my right foot and 2nd comp dirveing modei had it in comp mode and i know that comp mode does not let both rear wheels spin as a matter of fact i whent back and looked at the marks to see how bad the wheel hop was and there was only 1 mark hets the comp driveing being on and the 1 wheel that did spin had wheels hop from hell :mad so im hopeing that it just the clutch and if it is i got my eye on a nice stage 2 stage 3 hybrid clutch and pressure plate and i will be putting in my self that way i no its done right plus its cheaper i will up date again on monday or tuesday when ever they find out for sure what the prob is thanks for all your comments :cheers:

 

If it's just a blown clutch you should be able to escape for under a grand ; not the end of the world. The real tears start flowing when you see poofs of smoke coming from the engine compartment.

Mark

 

PLEASE let us know what the problem turned out to be after you get it apart!

BC

 

well im 90% sure its the clutch i say this cause the dealer called me today and said that the clutch is gone they seen this with out takeing the car apart but they also said there may be more damage but they wont know unless they start unbolting stuff so i whent and picked the up i say if the clutch is gone thats all thats gone cause the car still drives good under 10mph do to bad silppage all the gears feel good and when it starts to slip you can smell clutch but heres what i need to ask has anyone changed there own clutch before cause the chevy dealer told me its a 10 hour job and you have to drop the half shafts trans and rear end just to change the dam clutch :mad i dont know if thats right or not but if it is thats one big design erorr on chevys part to have to drop so much crap just to change the clutch ? but anyway if anyone knows anything about that please reply with info thanks guys :grouphug: :cheers: :cheers:

 

i am going to ge head and do the install i just need the clutch :lol:

 

Good luck with your repairs. Hopefully it is only the clutch and you can do it yourself.

 

torched you

Sorry to hear that you SMOKED the clutch! :( It is a job that you can tackel but you DO have to remove all of the stuff the dealer stated! It just the nature of the beast. I have a 98 coupe and I also will need a clutch soon! I plan replacing it with a ZO6 unit. If you do your own I recommend up-grading to a ZO6 unit at a minimum. A lot of guys are using after market clutches and have had very good luck with them. I can not vouge for anything other than the ZO6 clutch because I have a ZO6 and it works GREAT!!! :thumbs:

There are issues with balancing the clutch pressure plate and the fly wheel! If you do not do this you will most likley have a severe vibribration problem. Balance the pressure plate and fly wheel seperately. If you do it as a unit you will have to balance the fly wheel everytime you change the clutch!

If you use a ZO6 set up you will need to up grade to the ZO6 master and slave (throw out bearing) If you up grade to an after market you should up grade to a better hydraulic set up. I dont know what you will need. As the guys on the forum

While you have all of that drive train stuff out, I recommend installing some heat shields in the area where the clutch housing liveds. There are a number of forum vendors that sell it.

I can not see giving the dealer $1000 dollars to work on my car! :skep: They get enough money when they sell it to you and sell you parts!

I am lucky because I have a garage with a lift that I can use. Even if I didnt I would still do it! :thumbs:

Well keep us informed on how things progress and ask LOTS of questions!!!

Good luck!

Bill Curlee