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If you have an air compressor ingersal makes a 1/2 drive plastic air gun that will loosen it . Torque the bolt mark the bolt and then mark the balancer 140 degrees and pull like hell 3/4 drive breaker and 5 foot pipe dont slip off good luck.
I have done it three times so far and hope I never do it again.
After the first time I did not get it tight enough and it came loose also. :mad
This last time I did it this way and it was a lot less work.
Like some of the others here I unplugged the coil packs and with a breaker bar and cheater pipe I used the starter to break it loose. This is simple, east, and fast.
Now to tighten the new bolt properly, I put Locktight Red on the threads (don't worry you can get it back out if needed) torqued it to the proper amount, then marked a mike on the crank bolt with somthing easly seen and marked a line in the Ballancer it self 140 degrees around from the mark on the bolt. I the goal is if you turn the bolt 140 degrees the two lines will line up.
Next I borrowed a 3/4" impact from a friend (you can also rent these, just look under Rental in the phone book), and hammer that sucker until the lines match up. Quick, easy, and a lot less hassel.
YouÂ’ll need to rotate the crank to get things lined up.
What needs to be lined up? And where is the location of the inspection plate? Sorry for all the Q's, but I haven't gone under the car yet to investiage what you're referring to.
Once you get under the car you’ll see a rubber plug in a plate that covers the back of the engine. Remove the plug, you’ll see the flex plate. Rotate the engine till the holes in the flex plate and the hole in the inspection plate line up. Insert a large screwdriver or whatever works best for you. Helps if you have 2 people, thanks Patches.
:hurray: Thank you so much to EVERYONE here for the great tips and information. I'll be tearing into the car "hopefully" sometime this week. I need to contact Andy about my kit, should be on its way this week!!
:party:
We're discussing the crank bolt removal as I will be installing a D1-SC supercharger soon :D And need to remove the bolt in order to "pin" the crank pulley to the crank.
These pulleys are only friction fit at the factory and with the excess drag caused by a blower, the pulley could spin at a different rate than the crank. This would not be a good situation :nonod:
Of course, some guys need this info if they're going to install an underdrive pulley to replace the factory crank pulley. I don't think the underdrive pulleys give too much in terms of performance? But perhaps somebody here has personal experience?
Feel free to ask us any questions you need! This is a TERRIFIC resource for information concerning our Vettes. :grouphug:
Thanks for the link, but man.... That $100 bucks could go towards my dyno tuning. :rofl: I wonder it they have the manuals available on CD/DVD? Maybe we could get a vendor interested in a GP??
I'm sure I'm not the only one on here that's a DIY'er!!!
:grouphug:
1. buy the shop manual, a great source of info,etc
2. get some good air tools, impact wrench etc
3. make friends with someone with a lift. This car is tough to work on in the driveway.
4.have fun, thats what its all about. :party:
Amen, brother! A lift is something I am going to pursue in the near future, as funds allow. I have some impact tools, but I don't think my gun is too powerful, anyone have some recommendations on a good one? Pricing?
Ya know it's funny, all my other cars I have purchased manuals for, but the Vette I haven't..... YET! I'll be looking into it shortly for sure.