Crank bolt removal :(
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 0
Crank bolt removal :(
Hey All,
How the HECK do I get the crank bolt off of an A4 Vette? Any suggestions? Also, is the torque spec for a new bolt REALLY 240lbs.??!!! And then after that you need to continue pulling on that darned thing another 140 degrees?
Please tell me I'm mistaken.
Lastly, I stopped by my local Chebby dealer today and picked up a new bolt for only $4.00 in change! Thought that was pretty reasonable, I believe I read elsewhere they were like twice that amount?
Take care all!
:cheers:
How the HECK do I get the crank bolt off of an A4 Vette? Any suggestions? Also, is the torque spec for a new bolt REALLY 240lbs.??!!! And then after that you need to continue pulling on that darned thing another 140 degrees?
Please tell me I'm mistaken.
Lastly, I stopped by my local Chebby dealer today and picked up a new bolt for only $4.00 in change! Thought that was pretty reasonable, I believe I read elsewhere they were like twice that amount?
Take care all!
:cheers:
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,060
Likes: 3
From: Dublin CA
Re: Crank bolt removal :( (dads01dream)
Well, my experience with the Datsun days was to put a pipe over the socket wrench, put it against the frame, and tap the starter... :crazy:
With my A4 vette I removed the rubber plug under the flywheel bellhousing, put a crowbar in the flywheel hole, and slid a long pipe on the socket wrench.
With my A4 vette I removed the rubber plug under the flywheel bellhousing, put a crowbar in the flywheel hole, and slid a long pipe on the socket wrench.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,331
Likes: 39
Re: Crank bolt removal :( (dads01dream)
Mike,
you might want to do some searches for an easy way to remove the bolt, it has been discussed before. I used a standard braker bar with a long metal pipe over the end to give me more leverage. You can also (being careful) wedge the breaker bar to a fixed study position and (with the coil packs unpuged) bump the starter. You must make sure everything has a good tight fit (socket securely on bolt) before giving it a bump.
I don't remember the exact spec's off the top of my head but it is like (with the old bolt) torque to 125, then remove bolt, put in new bolt, torque to 24 lbs. then strech it 140 degrees (or just more than a 1/3 of a 'round')
BTW: $4 bucks is a good deal.
If you need the exact specs, let me know I will look them up.
you might want to do some searches for an easy way to remove the bolt, it has been discussed before. I used a standard braker bar with a long metal pipe over the end to give me more leverage. You can also (being careful) wedge the breaker bar to a fixed study position and (with the coil packs unpuged) bump the starter. You must make sure everything has a good tight fit (socket securely on bolt) before giving it a bump.
I don't remember the exact spec's off the top of my head but it is like (with the old bolt) torque to 125, then remove bolt, put in new bolt, torque to 24 lbs. then strech it 140 degrees (or just more than a 1/3 of a 'round')
BTW: $4 bucks is a good deal.
If you need the exact specs, let me know I will look them up.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 0
Re: Crank bolt removal :( (Gary2KC5)
Great suggestions, guys! Anyone else have a few more ideas, just in case.
BTW, I too had a '71 240Z (man, that car was fun) but I never needed to remove the crank bolt. :nonod:
BTW, I too had a '71 240Z (man, that car was fun) but I never needed to remove the crank bolt. :nonod:
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,818
Likes: 3
From: SoCal
Re: Crank bolt removal :( (dads01dream)
Hey All,
How the HECK do I get the crank bolt off of an A4 Vette? Any suggestions? Also, is the torque spec for a new bolt REALLY 240lbs.??!!! And then after that you need to continue pulling on that darned thing another 140 degrees?
Please tell me I'm mistaken.
Lastly, I stopped by my local Chebby dealer today and picked up a new bolt for only $4.00 in change! Thought that was pretty reasonable, I believe I read elsewhere they were like twice that amount?
Take care all!
:cheers:
How the HECK do I get the crank bolt off of an A4 Vette? Any suggestions? Also, is the torque spec for a new bolt REALLY 240lbs.??!!! And then after that you need to continue pulling on that darned thing another 140 degrees?
Please tell me I'm mistaken.
Lastly, I stopped by my local Chebby dealer today and picked up a new bolt for only $4.00 in change! Thought that was pretty reasonable, I believe I read elsewhere they were like twice that amount?
Take care all!
:cheers:
Follow the instructions or torque specs on http://www.ls1howto.com and you'll be fine tightening the bolt, and no, its not 240lbft plus 140 degrees.
Jon
http://www.ls1howto.com
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 0
Re: Crank bolt removal :( (jmX)
Hey jmX,
Here's a quote directly from LS1howto:
"Grab your biggest torque wrench and attempt to torque that bolt down to 240lbft. I have always stopped at 200lbft on my installs and I've never had a problem, so if you can't hit 240 (which I never have), don't worry about it. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.
Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lbft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count. Again, I always seem to get about 90-100 degrees worth (estimating, knowing what 90 degrees looks like) and leave it as is so don't worry about going crazy here."
Says 240lbs. & 140 degrees..... Am I missing something here? Please explain this to me further.
Thanks!
Here's a quote directly from LS1howto:
"Grab your biggest torque wrench and attempt to torque that bolt down to 240lbft. I have always stopped at 200lbft on my installs and I've never had a problem, so if you can't hit 240 (which I never have), don't worry about it. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.
Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lbft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count. Again, I always seem to get about 90-100 degrees worth (estimating, knowing what 90 degrees looks like) and leave it as is so don't worry about going crazy here."
Says 240lbs. & 140 degrees..... Am I missing something here? Please explain this to me further.
Thanks!
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,818
Likes: 3
From: SoCal
Re: Crank bolt removal :( (dads01dream)
Read what you quoted again, there's 2 totally different bolts being used.
One bolt is 240lbft, the other is 37lbft+140 degrees
[Modified by jmX, 11:31 PM 11/26/2003]
One bolt is 240lbft, the other is 37lbft+140 degrees
[Modified by jmX, 11:31 PM 11/26/2003]
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 0
Re: Crank bolt removal :( (jmX)
Ok, so the firswt bolt was the old one being used to push on the pulley? The new one only needs torque to 37#'s and then 140 degrees past that setting? Am I correct now?
:bb
:bb
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 892
Likes: 1
From: Houston Texas
Re: Crank bolt removal :( (dads01dream)
Ok, so the firswt bolt was the old one being used to push on the pulley? The new one only needs torque to 37#'s and then 140 degrees past that setting? Am I correct now?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 0
From: Troy MI
Re: Crank bolt removal :( (Stephen02Z06)
During my cam install we followed the torque specs for the putting the balancer back on, and then the new bolt to follow.
2 weeks later my balancer had slid forward 1" and the bolt was touching the steering system.:cuss
I had to tear the steering out again, and put another new bolt on it :cry
This time I put some thread lock on and a friend and I pulled back on the breaker bar as hard as we coold while another friend held the brake to the floor.
Mine is a manual trans, but I would definately not mess with torquing it below spech. It is a miserable experience to have to do it twice. I have heard many people say now that the torque specs are too low.
To get the balancer back on I would also recommend getting a longer than stock bolt. We have done 4 cars now, and every one of them was a pain to get the balancer back on w/ the stock bolt. I think the truck motor may have a longer bolt. :thumbs:
2 weeks later my balancer had slid forward 1" and the bolt was touching the steering system.:cuss
I had to tear the steering out again, and put another new bolt on it :cry
This time I put some thread lock on and a friend and I pulled back on the breaker bar as hard as we coold while another friend held the brake to the floor.
Mine is a manual trans, but I would definately not mess with torquing it below spech. It is a miserable experience to have to do it twice. I have heard many people say now that the torque specs are too low.
To get the balancer back on I would also recommend getting a longer than stock bolt. We have done 4 cars now, and every one of them was a pain to get the balancer back on w/ the stock bolt. I think the truck motor may have a longer bolt. :thumbs:
Safety Car
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,814
Likes: 105
From: Dearborn Heights Michigan
Re: Crank bolt removal :( (msuc5vette)
:iagree: After my head/cam the balancer pulley slid forward after about a year, ruined the pulley and belts. New balancer was $160, bolt $9. Make sure you follow Maintenance Manual procedure quoted above using 2 bolts (old and new) with the 37 lb-ft and 140*.
Fred K.
Fred K.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,103
Likes: 0
From: Tacoma WA your Junk Yard Dogg
Re: Crank bolt removal :( (dads01dream)
When using the impact wrench, do I need to unplug the coil packs or something to avoid accidentally starting the motor??
:crazy:
:crazy:
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 834
Likes: 0
From: Grayson Ga.
Re: Crank bolt removal :( (dads01dream)
Hey All,
How the HECK do I get the crank bolt off of an A4 Vette? Any suggestions?
:cheers:
How the HECK do I get the crank bolt off of an A4 Vette? Any suggestions?
:cheers:
Pro
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 569
Likes: 0
From: Foresthill CA
Re: Crank bolt removal :( (Wt99C5)
Yeah, good tip, my floorjack handle fits over my Craftsman breaker bar too.
I used the "shade tree piston stop" to keep the motor from turning, stuffed a cotton rope in plug hole #2. You may need to back the pulley off a bit to free up rope if it doesn't pull right back out.
Was easier, faster, and safer than other methods, IMHO.
I used the "shade tree piston stop" to keep the motor from turning, stuffed a cotton rope in plug hole #2. You may need to back the pulley off a bit to free up rope if it doesn't pull right back out.
Was easier, faster, and safer than other methods, IMHO.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 6,799
Likes: 11
From: dudley MA
Re: Crank bolt removal :( (Stu in CA)
make sure u torque that bolt to 240ftibs. i had my pulley slide of 3 times!!!i finally got a 600ftib torque wrench and blasted it on to 250ftibs and it hasn't come loose yet :)
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 0
Re: Crank bolt removal :( (pdd000)
Hey pdd....
I think you only need to torque the "old" bolt down that much if you've removed the crank pulley in order to set it back in place. In my case, I'm going to be removing the crank bolt only to "pin" the crank pulley for my ATI D1-SC install. The pulley is not being removed.
The problem is, once you remove the factory bolt a new one is required. The new bolt must be torqued to 37lbs. and then "Stretched" an additional 140 degrees. EEK!! Oh, and I'll make absolutely certain to use Loctite red thread sealer.
Have I missed anything here? :grouphug:
[Modified by dads01dream, 10:28 PM 11/29/2003]
I think you only need to torque the "old" bolt down that much if you've removed the crank pulley in order to set it back in place. In my case, I'm going to be removing the crank bolt only to "pin" the crank pulley for my ATI D1-SC install. The pulley is not being removed.
The problem is, once you remove the factory bolt a new one is required. The new bolt must be torqued to 37lbs. and then "Stretched" an additional 140 degrees. EEK!! Oh, and I'll make absolutely certain to use Loctite red thread sealer.
Have I missed anything here? :grouphug:
[Modified by dads01dream, 10:28 PM 11/29/2003]