do all the header install require removal of the valve covers, coils and alternator??? or is there a set that will drop in with just minimal fiddling around??? I am seeking a set that keeps both o2 sensors with cats to not get any code and not require a ls1 edit right away to cancell codes...what should I look at , want stainless....like Lg,, but worried about codes..do they snake in with out musch fuss...need experienced answers ,, please..

 

I have been watching all these header wars with great interest. I think, based on what I have read, that a post install tune is going to be necessary no matter what set you install. I would be concerned with any knock taking place and would want to ensure there are no lean conditions in the RPM curve. I am not particularly fond of having to use O2 sims, but I am still leaning to the LG headers. Their build quality and potential performance benefits appear to be pretty consistant, at least that is my observation from reading all the posts. Their installation also do not seem to require heroic efforts, although I wish all the vendors would put up a set of installation instructions on their web site, but I have yet to find these.

 

I feel we are in the same boat,, I really dont want to install o2 simm either, I like the flp due to both simms and cats,, but they are coated , I want stainless...I might talk myself out of the deal and stay stock until I need to...The looks of the lg impress me, good quality , I like the slip fit with no flanges,,more streamlined under the car, the flp have the nice clamps ,,,so many choices,, so much money,,whee,,,,,the lg install seems pretty easy,,with removal of one valve cover...Why they did not put bungs in for both 02 sensors on the cat version???

 

LGM LTs really are pretty easy to install, really only requiring one valve cover to be removed. We also removed the alternator tho I cant remember if that actually was necessary.

I think the reason for the single set of O2s is due to the super long length primaries.

 

wrustywrench,
Couldn’t have said it better myself. So many things to consider. I wonder how Corsa’s new SS headers will fit into the equation. – C.

 

I installed SLP equal lengths and my car has never ran so good, and sound, well its gots some ***** now, at least it sounds as if it does.

Good Luck :cheers:

 

This one is definitely my next performance mod. For a DIY, I definitely share the same concerns, when $2-300 saved up front might seem like alot until you get to the install where you invest 10-12 hours of your time and frustration. I am also leaning towards LG's because I want a true stainless system which from what I have read on the Forum is one of the only real "bolt-on" systems.

 

Hi Guys

We make a true bolt on header that uses the stock o2 sensors and does not require removing the valve covers. Our headers are available with a "center section" that runs form our headers back to the 2 bolt flange, all in 3" 18 guage 304 s/s and includes an x pipe. We offer our headers for 1099 retail and the off road center section is 399. The center section with cats is 749-we use random tech 3" high flow cats. With the center section our headers are a true bolt on and require no cutting and welding.

Our headers and center section are backed by a lifetime warranty. Pictures of both are available at http://www.stainlessworks.net. Our headers and center section are available from Norris Motorsports, Extreme, 21st Century, MTI, Performance Technical Center, CarTek, Speed Inc, etc-basically any tuner on the forum carries them.

You should reflash the PCM for optimal performance, but you do not have to. We recently did an '03 and did not reflash the PCM with no issue. With the headers and center section, with no PCM work, we saw approximately 25 RWHP, on a completely stock car-no air intake or other bolt ons. A PCM reflash is worth anywhere from 5-15 RWHP depending on the mods, year of car, etc.

Thanks
Al

 

Al,
Are all four O2 sensors retained and, if so, are extension wires needed? - C.

 

I put Stainless Works headers, 3" midsection, Random Technology cats, and Stainless Works 3" xpipe on my car. The drivers side went in from underneath, did not have to take the alternator off. The passengers side I had to take the valve cover and coil pack off. It took about 15 minutes for that. I did get the car up pretty high on jack stands, and that helped get the headers in from underneath. The system made big power gains for me, see my sig. The only other component I added was an LS6 intake manifold. And I have not had the car tuned and have not had any codes at all from the install. And the car sounds more like a big block because of that 3" midsection. I kept my catbacks at 2.5" and the combo seems to have given me big torque gains also, from the low end all the way to the top. Previous HP and TQ figures were 316 rwhp and 328 rwtq. They went in in about 3 hours. and another 1.5 hours for the midsection, cats, and xpipe. One other thing, which might seem unrelated but, I changed my plugs and wires at the same time. Good luck! :thumbs:
BTW, check out http://c5howto.com for a procedure on an installation of FLP's. The methodology helped my out quite a bit. :cool:


[Modified by ArKay99, 8:44 PM 12/11/2003]

 

Al, are these California emissions legal?

 

so stainless works are good,,,hmmmm,,,,,whats this air tube thing I hear about,, dont you just bolt up to the flange, or is something hooked to the cats??? better slide undr and see....whee

 

HI blkhntr

They are not CA smog legal. I do not know of any long tube header that is.

The air tube is the tube that bolts into the top of the manifold. The early pre 2000's are different than the 2001+. We make them correct for the year of the car so you don't have to buy a new AIR tube or cut yours.

Thanks
Al