Changing clutch fluid..worth it??

Has anyone had this done at the dealer, and if so how many $$. Also, does the "turkey baster" approach really work? Thanks :thumbs:
Second - Changing your fluid is a good idea if the fluid has turned black or has a lot of little "rubber particles" suspended in the reservoir. Are you doing a lot of hard shifting, drag racing, street racing, etc? If so, your fluid may need to be changed out.
Third - The turkey baster is for turkeys. Not your C5. Doesn't work, waste of time.
Fourth - Dealer will bleed clutch for around $250 in labor. Car has to go on a lift and the dealer has the tools to bleed. I have bled my clutch at home and installed a little drain tube with bleeder valve so I can get to it without disassembling 1/2 of my car. Loosen bleeder, pump pedal, voila!
Have fun and welcome to the world of GM (The General) stupid designs.

Second - Changing your fluid is a good idea if the fluid has turned black or has a lot of little "rubber particles" suspended in the reservoir. Are you doing a lot of hard shifting, drag racing, street racing, etc? If so, your fluid may need to be changed out.
Third - The turkey baster is for turkeys. Not your C5. Doesn't work, waste of time.
Fourth - Dealer will bleed clutch for around $250 in labor. Car has to go on a lift and the dealer has the tools to bleed. I have bled my clutch at home and installed a little drain tube with bleeder valve so I can get to it without disassembling 1/2 of my car. Loosen bleeder, pump pedal, voila!
Have fun and welcome to the world of GM (The General) stupid designs.
Second - Changing your fluid is a good idea if the fluid has turned black or has a lot of little "rubber particles" suspended in the reservoir. Are you doing a lot of hard shifting, drag racing, street racing, etc? If so, your fluid may need to be changed out.
Do you have photo's or a tech write-up on your addition of the bleed line? I have always thought this could be done.



jeanlucpicard,
Do you have photo's or a tech write-up on your addition of the bleed line? I have always thought this could be done.
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I am also interested in a remote bleeder. I've bled my own clutch after a new clutch install. The clutch pedal engages closer to the floor than before, I thought there may be air in the line. It didn't make a difference, but what a P.I.T.A. In my garage...car on jack stands....me on my back....broken exhaust studs. I'd buy one just to keep on the side. If I ever have to go back in this area.....I would install it. SOMEONE COULD MAKE SOME MONEY HERE.








I use the Mityvac pump. You attach the catch can(comes with pump) in line with one of the nozzles.
Here is my fluid. This fluid has about 1500 miles on it. Yuck.
Insert the nozzle into the master cylinder and remove the fluid from the reservoir only.
Here is the fluid from the reservoir.
Take a rag and wipe out the reservoir.
Fill the reservoir almost to the top. Insert the mityvac nozzle into the line in the bottom of the reservoir. Pump the mityvac up to about 15 in. Keep filling the reservoir.
I just repeat the procedure keeping the reservoir full until no air bubbles appear while maintaining pressure of about 15-20 in.
Note: This does not remove all of the old fluid from the system. But it does get the air out.
I have no idea why GM would tell us to remove the air from the lowest part of the system.
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That said, I have not performed a CSI exam of the fluids - and will not do so. Use your own judgement on this. I can say that my clutch requires less bleeding and feels better on the GM fluids.




