Baer Rotors?
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Melbourne FL
Baer Rotors?
Just finished installing my new Baer rotors yesterday.
I completed the rotor seasoning procedure today.
Now my brakes feel like they are glazed. The car definately does not stop as good as it did before the seasoning procedure. Did I screw these up somehow?
I also now have a vibration above 65 mph that I did not have before the install of the rotors. Anybody else have these problems after installing the Baer rotors?
[Modified by Z06ufgrad2002, 12:30 PM 1/4/2004]
I completed the rotor seasoning procedure today.
Now my brakes feel like they are glazed. The car definately does not stop as good as it did before the seasoning procedure. Did I screw these up somehow?
I also now have a vibration above 65 mph that I did not have before the install of the rotors. Anybody else have these problems after installing the Baer rotors?
[Modified by Z06ufgrad2002, 12:30 PM 1/4/2004]
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From: Shenandoah Valley Virginia
Re: Baer Rotors? (Z06ufgrad2002)
Did you install new pads or reuse an old set ? If an old set, the pads will take a couple of hundred miles to re - seat to the rotors. They take the shape of the old rotor and have to wear in to the shape of the new one before they make full surface contact. When I installed my Eradispeeds, they did not stop well until the zinc plating was worn off the friction surface. Once the zinc was completely gone the firm feel returned. Does the vibration happen when you have the brake pedal depressed, if so it's something in the brakes. Go over your install again and make sure everything is tight. If you can isolate to a specific corner, use a dial indicator on the rotor to see if there is too much runout. If all is ok you probably have a wheel out of balance.
Thread Starter
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From: Melbourne FL
Re: Baer Rotors? (CHJ In Virginia)
Installed new GM ceramic pads at the same time. I just hope I didn't fry the pads doing the rotor seasoning process. My brakes really smelled after doing the last step. And I noticed heavy brake fade during the last step as well. I never felt any brake fade with the OE Z06 pads.
The vibration is without brakes applied at speeds over 65 mph. I had the tires balanced not long ago and all wheel weights appear to be still attached. So I wouldn't think that it was a tire balance issue. But, you never know.
The vibration is without brakes applied at speeds over 65 mph. I had the tires balanced not long ago and all wheel weights appear to be still attached. So I wouldn't think that it was a tire balance issue. But, you never know.
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From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Re: Baer Rotors? (Z06ufgrad2002)
I hope you didn't season the rotors with the new, un-bedded pads. Baer's instructions say to season new rotors with used, bedded pads and to bed new pads with seasoned rotors. After the last part of the seasoning process, your rotors' fire paths should have been a distinctive blue color if they were properly seasoned. The blue color quickly disappears upon subsequent braking.
My Eradispeeds are smooth as glass and brake extremely well if no better than the OEM setup. I used a set of 1500-mile OEM pads to season them and th process went smoothly. I left the OEM pads in.
My Eradispeeds are smooth as glass and brake extremely well if no better than the OEM setup. I used a set of 1500-mile OEM pads to season them and th process went smoothly. I left the OEM pads in.
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From: Melbourne FL
Re: Baer Rotors? (Patches)
I read the directions quite thoroughly and I don't recall mention of not using new pads to season the rotors. I verified this with the Baer technical support as well. You can use new pads to season the rotors. Honestly it makes more sense to do it that way. New pads will have a flatter surface than an old set that is worn unevenly to old rotors.
I may have introduced air into the system during the high temps produced during the seasoning process. I need to bleed the system and see if that helps.
I may have introduced air into the system during the high temps produced during the seasoning process. I need to bleed the system and see if that helps.
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Re: Baer Rotors? (Z06ufgrad2002)
I have a set of these waiting to be installed. When I read the directions for seasoning the rotors for street use, it said to "use your car in normal commuting style driving for 8-10 heat cycles and 400-500 miles. Note: Zinc plated rotor surfaces may require 4-6 additional heat cycles or another 100-200 miles before they are ready to proceed to the next step." After you have done the above, then the instructions talk about gradually increasing brake temperatures with progressively faster stops. The entire write-up is two pages long.
Did you perform all the required steps, especially the lengthy driving that was recommended? Just curious if you did.
Don't know if others used this same procedure, but it is what came with my rotors and is from Baer. Hope you get this solved.
Did you perform all the required steps, especially the lengthy driving that was recommended? Just curious if you did.
Don't know if others used this same procedure, but it is what came with my rotors and is from Baer. Hope you get this solved.
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Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Re: Baer Rotors? (Z06ufgrad2002)
You are correct about that - apparently Baer has updated their procedure since I read it last. However, they seem to contradict themselves with instructions in their bedding procedure (the quote below is taken from their website):
Note: Never “Bed” pads on rotors which have not first been “Seasoned.”
On the one hand, you can season new rotors with new, unbedded pads, yet on the other, you can't bed new pads on new, unseasoned rotors. :confused:
Regardless, the procedure I followed was based on the instructions I printed off of their website and from advice given by others here on this forum last year. Everything is true after 18 months and they perform perfectly.
Best of luck getting it sorted out.
:cheers:
Note: Never “Bed” pads on rotors which have not first been “Seasoned.”
On the one hand, you can season new rotors with new, unbedded pads, yet on the other, you can't bed new pads on new, unseasoned rotors. :confused:
Regardless, the procedure I followed was based on the instructions I printed off of their website and from advice given by others here on this forum last year. Everything is true after 18 months and they perform perfectly.
Best of luck getting it sorted out.
:cheers:
Melting Slicks
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From: Clarkesville GA
Re: Baer Rotors? (Patches)
Interesting when I installed my Baer's this past summer they recommended to use the pads that you were going to continue to use after the seasoning process. I installed new pads at the same time of the rotors and haven't had any problems yet. I don't think :confused: :sad:
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From: Waterford Mi
Re: Baer Rotors?
:lurk: want to see how this works out. I was thinking of getting some Baers as part of my winter shopping. I already have the Ceramic pads just waiting to see if I should put them on and bed to the old rotors first or do it all at once.
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From: Melbourne FL
Re: Baer Rotors? (joe03z06)
stock pads, car has 5000 miles on it
[Modified by Z06ufgrad2002, 6:39 PM 1/6/2004]
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From: Defending the US Constitution in Northern CA
Re: Baer Rotors? (Z06ufgrad2002)
We sell and install Eradispeeds almost everydy. It is possible to bed in fresh pads with fresh rotors.
Yes it does take a while to wear the zinc plating off of the rotors.
As far as vibration, did you clean the hub face of rust prior to installing the rotors? Sometimes that causes runout. How did you torque the lug nuts when replacing the wheels. You need to tighten the lugs in a star pattern. It should be at least a two step process, usually 70 to 80# on the first pass and then torque to 100# on the final pass.
I have seen where people have torqued the nuts one right next to the other all the way up to 100+# on the first pass and have warped the rotors before the car even hits the ground.
Try doing 5 heavy braking passes from 60 to 10 and then drive the car gently for a few miles letting the rotors cool and see if that cures your problem. If you glazed the pads , that will cure it.
Yes it does take a while to wear the zinc plating off of the rotors.
As far as vibration, did you clean the hub face of rust prior to installing the rotors? Sometimes that causes runout. How did you torque the lug nuts when replacing the wheels. You need to tighten the lugs in a star pattern. It should be at least a two step process, usually 70 to 80# on the first pass and then torque to 100# on the final pass.
I have seen where people have torqued the nuts one right next to the other all the way up to 100+# on the first pass and have warped the rotors before the car even hits the ground.
Try doing 5 heavy braking passes from 60 to 10 and then drive the car gently for a few miles letting the rotors cool and see if that cures your problem. If you glazed the pads , that will cure it.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Melbourne FL
Re: Baer Rotors? (C5stein)
As far as vibration, did you clean the hub face of rust prior to installing the rotors? Sometimes that causes runout.
Yes I cleaned the hub surface prior to install
How did you torque the lug nuts when replacing the wheels. You need to tighten the lugs in a star pattern. It should be at least a two step process, usually 70 to 80# on the first pass and then torque to 100# on the final pass.
Yes, I did exactly this. Two steps in a star pattern to 110#.
I have seen where people have torqued the nuts one right next to the other all the way up to 100+# on the first pass and have warped the rotors before the car even hits the ground.
Try doing 5 heavy braking passes from 60 to 10 and then drive the car gently for a few miles letting the rotors cool and see if that cures your problem. If you glazed the pads , that will cure it.
They actually seem a bit better after driving on the a few days. Still dose not stop quite as good as the OE pads but, not too bad considering.