I need to replace a lug nut stud on the left rear of my 02. I messed up the threads trying to loosen the locks, ended up grinding it off. I got the rotor off and the nut that holds the spindle off. Now I'm lost on how to remove the hub. Is this something that I need to take to the dealer. No room to work the old one out, because of the emergency brake. Any ideas. :nonod: :grouphug:


[Modified by 3RD-INF, 2:12 PM 1/21/2004]


[Modified by 3RD-INF, 2:17 PM 1/21/2004]

 

I remembered seeing a picture of the hub assembly in the Ecklers catalog. It looks like There are 3 or four bolts holding a flange to the trailingarm or something. These hubs apparently dont have replaceable bearings anymore and are replaced as a unit. I dont have my factory service manual yet so Im not 100% sure. But then if it doesnt slide off after removeing them, you may need a hub puller or one of those slide hammer pullers to get it removed. I cant tell if there is enough clearance to push the stud thru without removeing it or not. The studs are more than likely pressed in anyway. They usually have splines at their base that seat them in the hub and prevent them from turning. You have to press them out sometimes. I have knocked them out of other hubs with a hammer & punch but it is best to press them in when you replace them. Probably not all the info you need but maybe a little help anyway till someone who has actually done it reads your post. Good luck :steering:


[Modified by jl240z, 6:47 AM 1/22/2004]

 

Hey Jan, Thanks for your response. It's greatly appreciated. It lookes like the hub definitely has to side out, because their is no room to knock the old one out. Damn emergency brake is in the way. G.M didn't make that easy to replace that either. Guess I'll find out to day about what it takes to pull it apart. Tnanks again Gary :flag

 

You can replace the rear wheel bearing yourself...sometimes. I've been having a hard time, but you SHOULD be able to do it. Get the wheel bearing at Autozone or Pep Boys. It should cost $126. Do a search for "wheel bearing" for a LOT of information.

 

You can replace just the stud. You can get replacement studs at pep boys etc. If not, I have some spare studs. You just need a deep well socket or open ended wrench + some washers and a open ended nut of the right pitch/size of the wheel studs.

Heres what you do, loose the tire, and the brakes. You dont even have to remove the bearing etc from the car and screw your alignment up. Take a hammer (yes hammer) and hit the stud like your trying to pound it out the other side (which you are). It will fall out. Then take your new stud and push it through. Splines are what hold it in place. Tighten it down with the washer and open ended nut. Use cheater bars for more leverage but dont tighten it so much that it ruins the thread.

Total spent, less then $5 and some time.

 

Eric, That will work on the front. The rear is the big question. The emergency brake is in the way. The hub has to be separated from the spindle for as there is no room to drive the old stud out. :nonod:

 

According to the 2001 Service Manual, you have to completely remove the hub and bearing assembly.

Here are the steps:

1) Remove wheel
2)Disconnect the wheel speed sensor electrical connection
3) Disconnect the RTD position sensor link, if equipped
4) Remove the brake caliper and rotor
5)Remove the shock absorber solenoid electrical connector, if equipped
6) Separate the outer tie rod end from the suspension knuckle
- Loosen, do not remove, the outer tie rod end stud nut from the outer tie rod end ball stud
- Install J42188 (Ball Joint Separator) between the steering knuckle and the outer tie rod end stud
- Tighten the J42188 bolt until the steering knuckle and the outer tie rod end sepaprate.
- Remove J42188 and the outer tie rod end stud nut
- Remove the outer tie rod end stud from the suspension knuckle
- Loosen the jam nut on the rear suspension adjustment link
- Remove the outer tie rod endfrom the rear suspension adjustment link
7) Remove the Spindle nut retainer, the spindle nut and washer
- You will need to stop the drive shaft from turning, car in gear or PARK
8) Separate the upper control arm from the suspension knuckle
- support the lower control arm with a jack stand
- Loosen the upper ball joint stud nut, but do not remove
- Use J42188 to seperate the upper ball joint
- remove J42188 and remove nut, separating the ball joint from the control arm
9) Remove the suspension knuckle from the vehicle
10) Remove the wheel hub mounting bolts
11) Remove the hub and bearing assembly from the suspension knuckle
12) Use J43631 Ball Joint separartor to force the stud from the wheel hub
13) Place new stud in hub and using washers and a stud nut tighten until the stud is in place.

Whew .... if you really want to do this, let me know and I can post the torque specs for putting it all back together ..... Good Luck !!

Steve

 

Lou from LG said that you can drill a hole 5/8" in the E brake backing plate in line with the stud to get the old stud out and the new one in:
http://www.z06vette.com/forums/showt...ht=wheel+studs

 

Steve, Thanks for all the information on the stud replacement. I have all the torque specs for that area, that I got from an old thread last month. I think that I'll try what gmblack3 and Lou from L G suggest. When the front door is locked, try the back door. I''l try to go through the E backing plate. That will be a lot easier, and quicker. Thanks for all the great info. Also my thanks to Gmblack3 and Lou. All you guys are great. :yesnod: :flag :grouphug:

 

I want to thank everyone for their imput on this it's greatly appreciated. I drilled a 1/2" hole in the backing plate. Then opened it up with a drimel tool. punched the old one out, and pulled the new one in with washers and a lug nut. I now know how the e brake comes apart, that damn little spring clip was a pain in the butt. This method was by far the quickest. Thanks again GARY :thumbs: :party: :auto:

 

Make sure you pay attention to that bearing. The service manual recommends pulling the bearing anytime the lug bolt has to be replaced. This is because you can support the wheel flange on a vise or some other object and will not be transferring hammering force to the bearing. I hammered out the lug on the front my 97 and about a year later the bearing started making noise. I do not know whether it was related or not. Just a word of caution.
Bill