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Is there a trick to getting hp out of this damn thing?
I got exactly 0 hp out of it when I did it a few months ago. Today I saw a TA on the dyno make back to back pulls before/after the pump. It didnt gain 1 hp.
Actually, it dynoed 3hp higher w/o the pump although that is probably just the variance in the pulls.
Hopefully it pumps water well for 500, J-rod got 8rw and I've heard of a couple of guys getting 6rw--a lot of guys agree with you and got nothing--I hope someone can answer your question--I wasn't going to get one until I needed one since the stock ones are like 300 or better--
From I have heard there is very little to no hp being achieved. I have not personally tested it on a dyno. The only factor I can see is being able to drag race the car at the track with no belt. Also I would like to think that it helps in keeping the car cooler.. :seeya
Is there a trick to getting hp out of this damn thing?
What year C5 do you have? I wonder if somewhere along the line the water pump was changed to a different model. We all know that anything on the serpentine belt robs HP, and 5-10hp for a mechanical device that's pushing water around doesn't SOUND unreasonable. But what could explain the inconsistent results is if the water pumps on earlier or later vehicles were more or less efficient. Thus some get an HP increase, some don't.
Both J-rod and Kumar have 2002 zo6's--both have ***** to the walls H/C packages etc, J-rod got 8rwhp and Kumar got s@#$--and they both dyno's in Texas--
The more gear and HP you already have, the more the pump will help. I got ~10rw on my old heads/cam combo, and .15th at the track. That was with the race pump and a custom belt (PS was not bypassed).
One more question: are coolant temperatures of 160 degress ok or is that a little too cold for optimal performance?
First, I think the biggest gain one should expect with an ewp is that the pump is pushing a ton of water even at idle speeds which means great in-traffic cooling capabilities. That alone will yield more hp just due to cooler ect's.
2nd, 160F temps is a bit cold for optimum combustion rates. I have consistently found my best ET's and trap speeds with ect's of 190F. Any warmer or cooler is not optimal IMO. I have had slightly contradictory results on the dyno, though. My best pulls have always been when engine was about 160-170F. But I believe this is due to fact that car is not moving, so cooler ram air not getting into intake as would be the case if you were moving + hotter motor air getting into intake when just sitting still on dyno.
The more gear and HP you already have, the more the pump will help. I got ~10rw on my old heads/cam combo, and .15th at the track. That was with the race pump and a custom belt (PS was not bypassed).
Thats what I figured but I guess not. Either way, I am keeping it for the cooling factor although it would have been nice to see the 6-8hp.
Maybe I will try w/o the belt on the dyno like someone suggested just for poopies and giggles.
It could be the combination of going from a stock pulley to a Meziere may be the 8-10 HP folks are seeing vs others not seeing. One of the things to take into consideration is that at some speed the pump has to cavitate. On a high RPM, high HP car that cavitation at the higher RPM ranges will cause a pretty significant drop in HP. It may be that the pulley negates some of those gains. One thing I did notice on this car is that it did have the stock thermostat still in the car. It would run 196 consistently. Even doing hot-lap passes you'd stage the car @ 196, and at the end of the quarter it was 196. Make the return road, and drive it back to the lanes, and its still 196. The temp never moved. With the 160 thermo in the car it runs at 163-167, and as soon as you stage it goes to around 180 and stay there. As soon as you make any heat in the motor it goes to 180 or so and takes a bit to come back. GM appears to have engineered the system to maintain a pretty specific temperature.
With the 160 thermo in the car it runs at 163-167, and as soon as you stage it goes to around 180 and stay there. As soon as you make any heat in the motor it goes to 180 or so and takes a bit to come back. GM appears to have engineered the system to maintain a pretty specific temperature.
If you take an OE water pump and spin the pulley by hand you will quickly find out that it really does not take that much effort to turn it. 8 to 10 HP more to the rear wheels by simply replacing the water pump is unrealistic. Now installing an underdrive pulley on the crankshaft which will turn ALL THE ACCESSORIES slower will give you 5 to 8 rwhp more.
Only buy this water pump if you need better cooling... IMO, and be ready to rebuild it the moment it goes out... or you will be stranded on the road somewhere. (Hopefully not on the way to the Cruise In some 2000 miles away from your house)
I just bought the ASP pulley & the EWP was to be next . But from what I can see the "published" gains more or less get negated when you add a pulley & the only advantage is better cooling albeit w/ the drawack of having to rebuild on average of 2 years. Thanks, I'll stick to my stock pump . :yesnod:
I felt that the Meziere added a bit of HP. I also have an underdrive pulley. I disagree that the stock pump takes little to spin. True enough, just like an oar out of water, it certainly is easier to row back and forth. Stick that oar in some water and then tell me what you think. Same thing applies to pushing coolant around in your engine. Anytime one can save drag on an engine equates to HP. I have not dynoed the setup, but I believe the HP gains would be more at higher RPMs.