My good Buddy Jason did it again (previous work installing rear brake ducts), this time coming up with a great-looking custom oil trap that goes between the PCV and the throttle body. There have been a few times when (while "gettin on it" :blueangel: ) I've noticed some smoke behind me...or was that from the tires?

Anyway, Jason said there were some other installations posted here, but he took the idea and tried to improve on it. He started with a piece of aluminum angle, cut it to shape and tapped out the bolt holes. To that, he added the kind of air filter that you can get for an air compressor that has a glass bolw with the filter inside. To that is the tubing that places the filter between your PCV and the TB, thereby trapping oil that collects in the system, keeping it from gumming up your intake. So far, it's been about 6 weeks, and there is probably a tablespoon of oil in the glass bowl.

Here's the photos of the install; Hope you enjoy!

Here is the unit sitting on the fender guard:


Here is the underside of the unit:


Here's a close-up of the aluminum custom-cut bracket. I'll edit this post later and post the size of it for you...

Remove this little angle hose. Put it in your "I don't need to keep this, but I'm afraid to throw it away" box:

Tap out the holes in the TB. BE VERY CAREFUL DOING THIS. SLOOOOW DRILL OR BY HAND.
Test fit the threaded fittings. These are simple brass threeaded fittings that allow a metal threaded bolt to be put in something like your plastic TB. They are available at any hardware store, and are used in cabinet work.

OK, time to install the assembly:

....and you're all done! :party:


[Modified by Beemerphile, 10:07 PM 2/12/2004]

 

Looks nice, but you better remove the filter. To much vacuum with it.

 

very clean!

 

Hey.....I want a Jason too......That's some nice work. You might want to take the filter out of the filter. I use this Mod also, NOW....the question is: Do you get more than a tablespoon of oil after a certain period of time. Many Forum members who have tried this filter have said that they will get a tablespoon of oil.....but no more. If they empty the filter, they will again get a tablespoon, but no more. We have yet to figure out why this is.

 

That LOOK COOL!!!!!!!!! Makes it look nice under the hood. I have this mod and used the same filter.

I have the white Filter on and want to know if I should take it off or not??? I hear people saying both.............................


Mine catchs a teaspoon of oil after a trip to the drag strip.

 

Is that really a problem? You want vacuum in the intake manifold, correct? Before the days of PCV's we all had those filter things on the valve covers that doubled as an oil filler cap and just vented to the environment. Then came Nader and they sucked all that into the intake - it keeps the environment clean by burning the oily fumes, but gums up the intake. So is it a big problem if we don't move a lot of air thru the PCV? After all, it must be moving enough air, or the wast oil wouldn't be there, correct?
Thanks.

 

Looks :cool: But, you need to provide us with a little "shopping list" to duplicate your install. ORRRRRR, you could put together a kit for fellow Forum members and put in a little something extra for yourself. :thumbs:

 

VETT#1

I offer the following as to why you only get a teaspoon of oil & no more. I suspect that when the filter cartridge is not touching the liquid oil (in the bottom of the glass cup) a percentage of the oil vapor is filtered out and collects in the bottom and some is passed through the filter due to vacuum.
(what percentage who knows or cares) what is important is that when the liquid oil pooled in the bottom of the cup touches the filter, the capillary effect saturates the filter material and vacuum then sucks up liquid oil until the level of liquid oil drops enough to loose contact with the filter. There is then probably a short period of time when the filter becomes less saturated, passes more vapor, & filters out more oil which collects in the bottom of the cup. The oil level again rises touches the filter and the cycle begins again.
I would guess that for this system to function effectively, the filter surface area would have to be large enough to present a low restriction to air flow while presenting a surface for the oil to condense on. The filter medium itself, must not come in contact with the extracted liquid oil. This lack of liquid oil contact could be accomplished thru the proper design and volume of the filter or through drain intervals timed to avoid liqiud oil rising to the level of the filter.

Just MHO

Barry

PS

You know, a thought. I would suspect that a small condensor such as an oil cooler would offer less restriction and greater temperature differental resulting in a more efficient vapor extractor. Of course you would still have to plumb up a liquid (oil) collector which could be drained.

 

:iagree:
I agree with the above theory. A similar thing happens to fuel/water seperators when the water level gets up too high. I used to be an engineer for a company that designed fuel filter/water seperators for diesel trucks, etc.

 

I talked to Jason about this very thing last night, as one member has already expressed interest in buying a "kit". Jason is considering fitting up say 6 or so for sale, but has to figure out how to cut one 3-hour labor segment out of the process first. He is a pretty innovative ghuy, so he may have some for sale here soon. Question to all: What would you be willing to pay for such a device, assuming all you have to do is install the threaded insters and then bolt-on yourself?

 

My response to taking the white (or whatever color) filter out, is due to just having my engine rebuilt. I had the same type of mod on pcv line. With a fresh engine where everything is tight, you could hear the rear main seal making a noise due to pulling so much vacuum. This will cause the seal to fail. When filter was removed, no noise. After dropping 7LARGE on engine, I dont want anything that is questionable to cause damage.

:cool: :cool:

 

That looks GREAT! I might be interested in one of those kits, depending on the price. It just looks like it should be there, and not an afterthought. If you popped the hood, and showed that to someone who wasn't into cars, it looks like a N20 setup with the anodized fittings. Very :cool:

 

Hmmmm..... How much? That's a tough one. In all honesty I don't know how much the components cost individually, and you mentioned something about him trying to remove a "3 hour labor" portion?? :eek:

I would hazard a guesstimate from a low of $40 up to maybe $80??? Not trying to anger anyone here, but I really don't know what's involved to put this whole kit together.

Any other suggestions??? :lurk:

 

I hope I don't sound nit-picky here, as I am certainly not much of a mechanic, and there are LOTS of folks here who know a lot more than I do, but I don't understand this vacuum thing fully, so please don't take my questions the wrong way.

The "rear main seal" is what seals the crankcase, correct, or seals the crank bearings or something, correct? With that in mind, and knowing that the crankcase builds pressure. how does a seal make noise? (No zoo jokes, please.) and how would a veeeery slight increase in vacuum in the intake manifld make any difference in the crankcase at all?

There is pressure build-up in the crankcase, not vacuum, correct? On the subject of the "too much" vacuum (in the intake manifold), think of some physics here for a minute: You have 350 cubic inches at, say, 3,000 RPM. That is the equivalent of 350c.i. x 1,500 (every other stroke is intake) = 303 CUBIC FEET of air moving into your intake manifold every minute. What possible measurable difference could an itty-bitty PCV make, with or without a filter, on that volume of air? I mean, isn't it the ol' proverbial "fart in a whirlwind" comparison? The PCV itself can't pass more than a limited CFM in the first place (what, 3 CFM?), miniscule in comparison to the 300+ CFM at 3,000 RPM and above, so how could a filter make it much "worse"? Could it be that, with your engine build-up came some seat-in time, and the removal of the filter just happened to co-incide with that rear bearing seating in? If all of the plugged-up PCV's in the country today caused rear-seal failures, we'd have to run the chicane of dead cars on the road just to get to work in the AM...

 

I realize that this idea is not GREEN, but can't the intake Vac line be plugged and just run a large Vac line (filtered) from the PVC down and out of the engine compartment? Would that not solve the BS issue of oil killing our $20k engines. Especially those with FI boost. Maybe even ad an electric air pump to draw out the vapors from the crank as artificial vac.
I'm guessing that some CA "Nader" guys will flame me but what the hell.

 

On removing the gum/oil build up on the engine.

Will using a product like GM top engine cleaner remove the build up?

Is there a way to check for build-up? I am assuming taking the accordian hose off and sticking a finger into the intake?

 

I would be willing to fork over $75.00 for that pretty setup.

Also, I'm going to try the filter removal trick. I'm running the LS6 PCV setup in conjunction with an air compressor filter, and while I don't see any obvious oil smoke from the exhaust, I still periodically smell burning oil, along with a lot of unburned HCs (big cam, no cats).

 

I can't speak for Jason, but I know it took him about an hour just to cut and tap and polish the aluminum angle ( I was incorrect in saying it was stainless). That's not even counting the time to go buy all the other pieces (the hoses are expensive), put it together, and ship it out. I doubt very seriously if you could expect to get it for that amount. There may be $40 in parts, but not in labor. Hell, Zaino costs more than that.

 

Time for a counter offer. If $75.00 isn't the right number, give us a better one.

 

Very Cool